BogMonster

Warranty work makes a bluddy great big loss in most cases!

I wonder if the difflock switch needs adjusting. I don't know if it affects difflock mechanisms but I do know that an incorrectly adjusted reverse light switch on an LT77 box can make it jump out of reverse, so it might also do the same with the difflock as the switch is the same part.

If they have countersunk bolts like the Genuine ones, use them. It does take longer (I have Gen ones) but the finished result looks a hell of a lot neater and more professional! Worth a couple of hours effort IMHO - all you need to do is take the plastic trim out of the wing top (which you need to do anyway) and the headlight unit out which is only a few screws.

I don't deny that the design of the D3 is superb particularly rear seats, interior space etc. 90 odd awards for the D3 plus the fact I think it is one of the biggest selling 4x4 vehicles in the UK means that it obviously has some good points. I suppose what I am really saying is buy with your eyes open to the problems it might have. If you want to know more about them (good and bad) look at www.disco3.co.uk which is a dedicated site I remember when the then new Range Rover came out in about 2002, Jeremy Clarkson tested it on Top Gear and was keeping it long term, and said that he had been promised that if anything fell off or broke in the first six months, he could shoot the managing director's dog. I'd guess the poor pooch probably looks like a colander by now...

folding or fixed type? The fixed ones need a lot more space

That should give you plenty of time to experience the reliability so you can get rid of it just as the warranty expires and before your wallet starts to hurt Sorry to sound pessimistic but I have "some exposure" to the things in what I do for a living and I would not buy one unless 1) somebody else was paying for the maintenance and 2) I had alternative transport for the time it was broken. Lovely cars when they work but therein lies the problem

No problems with speed here unless I am using it on dialup out in the sticks in which case speed problems come as standard Some of the images do take a while to load though, but I think they are probably ones that aren't stored on the forum server.

Hmm I get that too, we have had problems with similar issues in the past. Thanks - hopefully one of the admins will be along shortly If you know anybody that cannot get on the site at the moment they can do so by using the following link: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php which will go to the home page. Anybody reading this obviously doesn't need it

As long as they are properly secured and protected from chafing it shouldn't be a problem

Yes that would be the deciding factor for me as well - get one with a warranty! Youll need it. I think if I was going to get one that new I would probably save a bit more and get a brand new one, being the first owner always carries a bit more clout when it comes to problems especially the ones that happen just out of warranty.

That points to the passive coil being faulty, so it isn't detecting the fob close to the ignition barrel. Nothing else will go wrong because of it, so if you can live with it then you can save the cost of repair!

Seems happy on the SAE40 engine oil, thanks folks

265/75R16 will go on a 7x16 alloy with no problem, thats what I have on my 110

Never figured it out either... use USB memory sticks and a USB hard drive for backups and the big stuff

My Ranger gets muddier than that driving home on the road

The autos are not well known for good cooling! My feeling is that towing uphill in hot temps is probably just a cooling issue but if you don't sort it, it may well turn into a knackered box!

Yep that would do it too

Yes that would be my suggestion, most new winches on standard mounts will NOT fit with a/c fitted so you could buy a new winch and bumper and have the same problem... The approach angle is pretty awful on the a/c winch bumpers though.

There is absolutely no comparison between the two heating systems - the Puma is 10x better. The first time I drove a Puma I was far too hot within about 2 min of setting off! My impression of the engine was that it didn't feel that lively from a standing start but just keeps on pulling through the gears so is really effortless to drive. Like all Land Rovers the gearboxes vary from quite nice to not very nice depending on the vehicle. Low range throttle response is a bit "two paddles in a vat of custard" (much like the Td5) but I suppose you get used to it though I don't think I would ever "like" it. First gear high is nice and low and there is SO much torque that low range would not be needed for many off road conditions especially as the anti stall is absolutely brilliant, unlike the Td5! In short, if a meteorite fell on my 300Tdi, I'd get a Puma now. I would not have bought a Td5.

The size range is limited but have a look at the Maxxis Mudzilla, I have those and they are MUCH quieter than Simex pattern tyres, have only used them a couple of times off road but first impressions are that they are much better than normal MT's, though it may depend on the type of terrain you are using them in, they certainly work well here. The only complaint I have is that they are impossible to balance though a set of tyre beads will shortly be ordered to try and get around the problem.

In that case I would just get a replacement gearbox and not bother with trying to fix it. At that mileage most R380s are well past their best IMHO

Clutch release bearing could be on the way out, they can squeal. Usually shortly before they go bang leaving you with a clutchless manual

Testbook is the Land Rover diagnostic computer system, which plugs in and reads the fault codes off a vehicle. A fault code is stored when a vehicle ECU detects a fault on its system, and should pick up an intermittent problem of the type which makes a warning light come on and then disappear even if the vehicle currently seems OK. Testbook/T4/IDS are the main franchised dealer systems, a good independent garage may have Autologic/Rovacom system which will do the same and be cheaper in labour The chances are you will need a new wheel speed sensor fitted, which is not an uncommon problem on any ABS system, but the fault codes in the vehicle ECU should tell the mechanic what is wrong. Anybody who says they can fix it without a computer is just guessing! They might get it right but it might take a few expensive goes first...

Neither are the heads cheap if required, about £1500 for a full set IIRC It would not be my choice of engine unless it is really cheap!