BogMonster

Ah I have signatures switched off so can't see it, I got bored with all the tosh people usually put in them The 200 does have 2 different sorts of air filters IIRC, so will need to check what is fitted.

The clutch switch exists to switch in and out the "ASC" or Anti Shunt Control - the anti kangaroo system which works so badly Basically the ASC is disabled when you put your foot on the clutch so that the revs die back immediately for gearchanges - in theory anyway! When you take your foot off the clutch, it cuts back in again so that rapid pumping of your foot on the pedal doesn't produce lots of jerking and shunting. Disconnecting the switch (or indeed chewing through the wires) means that the ASC is disabled, some people prefer it this way, others find it too jerky. Never quite decided which I prefer. It is not there purely for cruise control as it is also fitted to Defenders

As an aside to this Firefox 3.0.1 has just been released which might be worth installing for anybody still suffering FF issues.

I thought you get quite a loud "sump" when it hits the axle - seems to be working fine

Michelin has owned BFG for several years IIRC BFG MT's are a pretty well respected and well proven tyre

I think the "bumm bumm" (ooer!) noise might be the solenoid feeding the EGR valve, they sometimes make odd noises, usually when the EGR isn't working. It's on the RH wing on most I have seen, not sure about the newest ones though, a little solenoid with electrical connector and three pipes going into it. May be the EGR unit broken (common) or the inlet filter blocked (also common). As Chris said the harness is another problem worth ruling out if only for future reliability!

Now you mention it I think the D2 crossmember mount has a sort of "swan neck" fitting to bring it out from the crossmember and under the bumper. I think that's why mine wouldn't fit because as you say the bumper is much further back from the crossmember that the tow kit bolts to.

Filters for what? I don't know either but some info on the vehicle narrows it down

Fit some rivnuts? Better than cable ties anyway

I thought the XS was still available They are hopeless in anything soft (i.e. boggy peat) and I would not think they would be much good in sand due to the narrow aggressive pattern which is pretty much the opposite of what you want in soft sand!

I have seen a few doing this - it is usually a problem with the alternator but if it has the new Td5 type dash, the warning lights are a bit too sensitive and can glow dimly when there is not really a problem! Check the output voltage and also that there is no drain from the battery with everything switched off (which also points to a dud alternator)

I didn't think they would, but then I was looking at fitting my custom made D1 bar to the D2 which was a different arrangement - I couldn't be sure about the genuine article. At a guess I would say the side bars are a different length and maybe the angle of the crossmember where it bolts on might be slightly different but I guess the only way to be sure is get the spanners out...

Yes play at full lock is quite normal in LR steering boxes, as long as it is tight at the straight ahead position then nothing to worry about IMHO

Not in my experience either! A fully charged battery, off load and off charge and given time to settle, is usually about 12.6-12.7 volts. 12.5 might be a little discharged but is OK, less than about 12.4 is time to get the charger out. The highest I have ever seen on a brand new fully charged battery is about 12.85v. You will get 13.5v out of a battery when the engine has been running recently but if left to settle (i.e. overnight) this will drop back. With the alternator running and normal engine revs and load (i.e. not at idle or with everything electrical on) the voltage should be 14.2 to 14.4, a bit less than that under high load or at idle but if the voltage with the engine running at operating revs is less than about 13.5 you are definitely heading into a supply and demand problem.

Another example of how too much work and not enough play makes the world a poorer place

Td5 rear crossmember used for towing anything larger than a pram

So what you are saying Trev is that if somebody makes their bookmark http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php? rather than www.lr4x4.com then it should be OK? This is what I use and having no problems anyway Blame it on Les pressing all those admin control panel buttons again Hmm edited to add I just closed the browser, opened it again and went to www.lr4x4.com and it still works ok for me

The wheel should go on relatively easily I think but it is a long time since I had one off... The coupler has only a certain amount of movement either way from the centre position before you rip the guts out of it. Basically it is a coiled up tape inside the plastic cassette. What you need to do is take the wheel off, then count the number of complete turns you can turn it clockwise (gently!) before you hit some resistance inside the coupler. Do NOT do this with any force or you will break it! Then you need to count back to the centre position (e.g. 3 turns) and do the same in the opposite direction till you hit slight resistance. You then need to position the coupler as near as you can get to mid-way between these two points, so that when the steering is on full lock one way or the other, it is within the range that the coupler can accommodate. Usually the "nearest straight ahead position" (where the wheel will engage with the coupler properly) is within about 1/4 turn or so of the midpoint. Hope that is clear if you are not sure you should probably get somebody who is familiar with them to check it out as it is an expensive component to break with trial and error!

well it was ok at work this morning just come home for lunch and still OK here so I dunno

I have been running Firefox 3 for a few weeks now and had no problems with this on 3 different computers. I would think its a cookie thang, as if you clear cookies you effectively get logged off, maybe your FF is set to delete cookies etc on exit? Are you logging in with "remember me" enabled?

Hmm having used it for a while it still seems to have trouble starting even from the same starting pressure as its always used. Not sure if this is down to the oil or the fact it ran without oil for a while. Ho hum, better budget for a new one some time then Note to self: do not lend expensive items of workshop equipment to people

Cheers, thats what I am thinking. There is no crunch or other unpleasantness when you actually find the gear. I've done bias springs before (though on a Discovery) I imagine the procedure is much the same though I think in the end I ignored the book and invented my own procedure I think he's going to get it anyway, seems like a good buy for four grand, all looks original and in very good condition. Would have been happy to buy it myself had I been looking for a 90 but four vehicles would be getting a bit silly

If it is really broken then you will have airbag warning lights on the dash, and the horn will not work. You need to take the wheel off with the steering in the straight ahead position, do the centralise procedure on the coupler and then put the wheel on ensuring that it engages properly. Do it carefully because a new coupler is the wrong side of £200! The torque on the steering wheel nut is not that critical IMHO, it just needs to be tight.

We don't do anything exceptional here at all (leave that to the Defenders!). The numbers of D3 vehicles here are small but when you see problems affecting in some cases 80% of the vehicles, it isn't really acceptable. All of the above are problems on a significant percentage of the vehicles I have experience of. Some of the problems will become more apparent elsewhere in years to come - I predict that second hand wheels will be quite rare in a few years and you read it here first

I didn't think so