BogMonster

I have a Ranger, yes it scrubs/drags and no you should not use 4WD on hard surfaces I have a gravel drive which I need 4WD to reverse out of as its a bit of a slope (2WD just digs in and scatters gravel everywhere) so I move off going straight back in 4WD then knock it into 2WD before putting full lock in. It's a faff about, and so much easier in a Land Rover where it all happens properly Any part time 4WD system will do what the Ranger does, i.e. most maybe all of the Jap double cabs with poverty 4x4 system.

Now why doesn't that surprise me

Probably not - its probably an ABS wheel speed sensor playing up but you'll need a visit to a Testbook to be sure.

The studs with the groove in the end are, AFAIK, just marked as such to show they are longer than the other ones - they are fitted to all vehicles now. At the risk of looking like you have crashed through a Scrap Iron showroom window, wheel spacers would be another option, but they are bloody expensive.

Dealt with him before and as others have said a really helpful chap and I got the impression that what he didn't know about winches you could write on the back of my ear.

I don't recall the price of our last batch but yes they are F expensive compared to 7.50R16 etc - all the big tubes are silly money which is another reason I like tubeless tyres if you save a hundred quid on tubes

Cheers Al - so you reckon the Clarke SAE40 would be OK then? Mental note to self to check more often than when I bought it and never again

Its one of these or a near equivalent model http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/Air-Compresso...Draper-DA25-230 Must admit I was switching it on and off not waiting till it had filled to working pressure and tripped off, so maybe that was why. When I bottom out what sort of juice it needs I'll check it again, though I know our big 270L workshop compressor at work chugs a bit when it starts up with air in the tank. Maybe that isn't working properly then! It's done that for the twelve years I have been here though.

I have a little 25L Draper compressor in the garage, 2HP 240V thing. I lent it to somebody for a while and they said it kept tripping out (overheat) on sustained use and I now find that there is next to no oil in the compressor unit... I have never ever had to top one up before - others I have used never ever lost any hence the fact it has not been checked for, er, probably quite a while So what sort of oil should you use in a small compressor like this? The only oil I can find locally in a quick inspection after lunch, is a Clarke "compressor oil" which on close inspection of the small print on the bottle looks like being a straight SAE40 engine oil. The book for the compressor has long since departed and I can't find anything helpful on Google which just wants to tell me how many different oil-free compressors Draper make haven't come up with anything on here either. Any thoughts please? Is it critical or do they all use pretty much the same? I hope the compressor itself isn't f**ed as it sounds to have trouble starting when there is over about 50psi in the receiver, and it used to just spring into life immediately, but I hope that having the correct oil level in it will help! It sounds fine once it is running though. Is "air tool oil" the same stuff? I already have some of this at home but maybe it is completely different stuff to the oil for the main unit? Ta

what size do you want? I don't think they even do a 255/85R16...

I painted mine with silver aluminium paint, takes a week to dry but seems quite hard wearing

Dave Ashcroft may be along with some more knowledgeable advice so don't dump it just yet Recon exchange box is probably the best option though

A Zook has permanent 4x4 with no centre diff though, so you should still get engine braking from the rear wheels? Tell him to go down hills in reverse

They are popular here due to the low price but in terms of performance I have heard users say everything from "awful" to "the next best thing to tractor tyres" so it would be fair to say that opinions differ They do seem to wear quite quickly so I would stick with BFGs personally. If you want to get much better than that you are into the territory of tyres that will rapidly wear out their welcome when on road (noise/handling), I speak from experience of having made that mistake fitting Special Tracks

Correct. It is the most common cause of aircon "failure" - the switch disables the mag clutch if there is not enough juice in the plumbing, so you don't fritz the compressor. The easy thing to do is watch/listen and see if you can hear the mag clutch engage when you switch the aircon on. If not, that's why there is no cold air

If all the other gears are there it is probably expensive. If they have all gone it might be the grubscrew in the selectors on top of the box these come loose and you lose all gear selection usually end up stuck in whatever gear you were in.

I know of several high mileage Td5s with no problems conversely I know of several others that have gone bang or worn out with very low miles (30-40k) so from knowing the vehicles I would say the ones to be wary of are the "lots of cold short runs shopping cars" rather than motorway milers. Bit like any engine really but the Td5s really don't seem to like it.

200 or 300? I don't know about either but the dash is completely different so would imagine the process may be too

Yep what Mike said above. The water pump/P gasket would be a likely cause of that sort of loss, more info in the tech archive forum. Also check the header tank cap is retaining pressure and there are no weeps from the radiator matrix as if original most 300Tdi rad matrixes will be getting pretty ripe by now! Ten years is often time to look at a new radiator core.

Stupid would be sitting on the garage floor swearing because you guessed, had the wrong combination and consequently had to put the old ones back on again

Almost certainly Coniston green

I don't think you would be mad to do it, it just pays to be aware of the risk when doing something. The "risk" is that Land Rover have a specific technical bulletin that says that all diesel power upgrades on any of the engines invalidate the warranty, full stop, no exceptions or excuses. Chances are nobody would even look especially if as Porny said the software codes are even the same.

You could fit the later thinner drive members which should do it or have you got bling HD ones?

In that case No

Which works fine until you have an expensive bang you want somebody else to pay for A decision for you obviously but not one I would take quite so early in the life of a new engine in the range, the weaknesses of which have yet to be identified!