BogMonster

What Andy said ^^^ almost certainly the bias plate.

Are you sure about that? BMW do not use the engine in anything of theirs so I would be surprised if they retained the rights to what was a Land Rover engine built in UK? You can fit a centre difflock to any D2 it is just a question of how much work you need to do - on some models you need to get into the transfer box, others is purely a case of fitting the lever. Ashcroft Transmissions' website has details I think.

You should be able to tweak the kickdown cable setting a bit but I don't think it will make too much difference as the limiting factor will be the torque converter stall speed which will be above 2000rpm. Also, much below 2000rpm and a Tdi hasn't got much oomph at all so you would quickly end up with something gutless if you did manage to bring it down.

The light is probably low brake fluid warning? Do you mean the ratchet mechanism on the handbrake is not holding properly?

With petrol at 15p a litre or whatever it is over there I think I would do that too if I had zillions in the bank

Yes it will. Consign to the cylindrical filing cabinet under the desk

Is the external handle jammed up? If so, prise out the LR oval and hose lots of WD40 in there, work it back and forth until free. The other option is broken spring inside the lock, do a search on here as it has been covered before a few times I think.

Not mine but at work, several 300s. Radiator header tank split, lost coolant, driver on cloud 9, bang, new engine as totally FUBAR Oil cooler pipe union unscrewed from oil cooler, lost oil, driver blissfully unaware, bang new engine also FUBAR "Ejector pump" T-piece split on coolant hoses (seen a few of these prob 3/4) coolant loss > overheating with varying degrees of damage but usually head gasket and sometimes new head (warped) required Can't say I have seen any terminal explosions that haven't been due to oil or coolant loss because of some ancilliary failure, at least none that I can think of. One needed some new conrods having been parked upside down for a while (oil in cylinders) and another one was the same after being parked in a river for a while (about 5ft deep) and then tow-started with a 4WD tractor...

You can only get body coloured roof with County spec vehicles for here, yes it costs extra and you can get it in any colour AFAIK.

Water pump gasket and/or P gasket most likely. I think there are posts from Les in the tech archive

www.lr90.com oddly enough I believe the number for the early type rubber isolators as found on the back of Tdi Discoverys in the top of the spring is ANR2938 which give about 0.3 inch lift (so 0.6 inch if you use them on both ends of the spring), not sure about the later Discovery 2 type or whether they fit anything other than a D2.

It has an electric fuel pump in the tank. There is no lift pump in the engine bay nor is there a fuel filter in the engine bay

It is normal for it to open up when pushed together - that's how you splice it. I would say it is absolutely fine from the last pictures you posted - looks much like mine.

Welcome Fuel pump is on the way out would be my guess, at high demand (i.e. under load lots of revs) the pressure drops away and you lose power/misfire. It will not necessarily show up as a fault on T4 as the Td5 ECU has no fuel pressure sensing. The only 100% ways to check would be either fit a fuel pressure gauge in place of the temp sensor on the fuel system and test drive it, or fit a new pump and see what happens.

Yep, I pulled out some big gorse roots with mine a couple of months ago too, much easier than digging them out. Works for fence posts too

The bottom layer of mine looks much like that due to rust staining from the drum.

Sounds like the restrictor is either missing or around the wrong way (or in the wrong pipe) to me too. I have not tried it but I think what happens is the motor on the winch acts as a pump and pumps the fluid back through the return system too fast and what you are hearing could be cavitation in the hydraulics due to a lack of resistance in the outlet from the winch when you are letting out. As said you should hear a "hydraulicy" noise when powering out with no load on the cable, if you don't hear this and it is as silent as it is on winch in, then there is something wrong. If you are getting hydraulic noise when winching in with nothing on the cable, and no noise when winching out, I'd be almost sure the pipes are fitted the wrong way round!

The bottom layers of my Dyneema are pretty squished from where it has been really tight on the drum but I have not had any problems and certainly don't intend to replace it until it is properly f***ed. If it looks like it used to be light blue in colour it is probably Dyneema as that is its natural colour. Fluffiness on the surface is not supposed to be a problem on these ropes though both my bits still look fine anyway, but broken strands may be a sign of problems. I have put some fair loads through mine with no problems, in fact I like it so much that I have just bought a bit of 6mm Dyneema from Bowyer for my boat trailer winch!

The rear door changed for 2002 model year to one that will still fit in the hole but you need to change it as a complete unit including the door carcass, the interior trim, interior handle, new rear window glass and new spare wheel carrier. I.e. it is not cheap. The post 02 swingaway spare wheel carriers are different because the fitting of the carrier onto the door carcass is totally different in terms of bolt spacing etc. As to why they are more expensive - you would have to ask the suppliers that! but there is no valid reason for it as the metalwork is much the same! If the door is squeaking it is either loose on the latch (5 min to adjust), or possibly the frame is cracked internally, you would have to take the interior trim off to check this out. You can weld them up and reinforce them relatively easily and this is often done. I would suggest repairing the door if required, and fitting a swingaway carrier - this is likely to be the cheapest and best option. The new doors are stronger but not infallible especially if your passengers have a habit of slamming the door hard as this is what usually kills them.

I have 2m in both mine and I don't have the aerial bracket grounded at all - just clamped onto the gutter but no direct earth. I have never found it to be a problem, the biggest issue is the type of aerial used and the difference between a good 5/8 whip and some of the bad 1/4 wave ones is immense. I get no crackle at all with the wiring direct to the battery and also keep the antenna coax away from other wiring harnesses as far as possible. Best range on 2m is about 85 miles from the top of a rather high place

No. To avoid interference, on any transmitter you should wire it direct to the battery via a suitable fuse, take it down the A pillar, behind the dash and out through one of the existing wiring grommets in the bulkhead, it is not at all hard to do and you will need to take half the trim off anyway to run the antenna coax. I don't know how much juice your CB takes but my 55W 2m VHF draws about 12 amps on transmit so you wouldn't piggy back it onto anything, but the main reason for doing it is to avoid interference very closely followed by the fact you may well let the smoke out of the wires if you start sucking too much through them.

Any idea what has gone? The oil on the dipstick looks OK and there is plenty of it - one of my initial thoughts was the torque converter due to lack of oil but apparently not and it doesn't seem to make horrid noises unless the vehicle is actually moving which rules out clutch slip or TC failure I think?

Post up a pic if you can but my guess on the plugs is either rear door amp/subwoofer or CD autochanger or maybe both, from the original ICE installation. I think from memory the OEM aerial connection was a straight plug. I also seem to recall there is an aerial amplifier somewhere, on the models with the aerial in the rear window, so you will need to make sure that is OK to get it working.

I think you need to prepare them specially as with painting any plastics (Defender wheelarch eyebrows, plastic Freelander wings etc) but I am afraid I don't know the specifics of painting plastic professionally I just know it is different to painting metal and the amateur attempts I have seen at painting Defender grilles etc invariably look horrible! To be honest, if you have a Tdi Discovery, I'd recommend just buying new end caps as they are only about £30 odd each and will then look brand spanking new! Same for the rear ones, and you can easily paint the metal part of the bumper.

The other half's boy has got a 1995 Discovery 300Tdi auto which has just developed a gearbox problem. I don't know a lot about broken auto boxes (there's not that many autos here and most of them work!) but just wondered what others thought... Trying to drive forwards or reverse it is OK initially then there is a banging and jerking you can both hear and feel through the transmission, this increases dramatically with speed and about 10mph is all the ears can stand. It will move in low range at low speed with little noise but again as soon as you get up to a few mph off it goes again, best way to describe it is that it sounds a bit like rolling a metal toolbox full of tools down a flight of stairs and the jerking is a bit like you can get from a collapsed CV joint when the balls fall out and jam the wheel, but it isn't that because it tows fine. Towed it in yesterday and even towing with auto and t/box in neutral it was banging away to itself, but if you put the auto box in Park (hence locking the output shaft from the box) and left the t/box in neutral then it appeared to be OK. Conversely, putting the auto in Drive and the t/box in neutral (with vehicle not moving) so the autobox output was spinning freely produced a hell of a noise, so I am 99% it is something in the auto box. Putting it in gear and revving it against the brakes doesn't produce any noise and no immediately obvious indication of clutch slip etc in the auto. Any thoughts anybody please? I think it will be terminal as the vehicle is a heap anyway (poorly rebuilt accident damaged vehicle only cost £1500 and not worth spending any amount of money on) and it will probably not cost effective to repair but just wondered if it might be anything cheap. It certainly isn't worth a new autobox and the top limit worth spending is probably about £500 and even that is debatable. Ta