BogMonster

Some of the non genuine stuff is a bit grotty, not sure about the newer anodised stuff from Rebel etc, as I haven't seen it. The best wing top protector set by far, is the genuine parts stuff, but you pay through the nose for it. It comes with nice countersunk stainless bolts to fit it instead of pop rivets, for a start. But AFAIK it is not available in black, only anodised silver. The black is a coating I think so if you intend to use them for protection rather than show then I guess it will come off sooner or later!

Yes because it is as much about engine warm up as heater warm up, to reduce engine wear by not having it running cold all the time. The FBH should come on in any ambient temperatures below 5 deg C (sensor behind the grille which sometimes doesn't work!) until the engine coolant gets to a set temperature, and then shut off, and will cycle on/off if the engine coolant keeps dropping below that temp due to slow running, idling, the heater being on full blast or whatever.

Good point! I guess the fact that the vehicle is moving forwards at speed would tend to drive the rain into the ram though, whereas rain falling straight down on the vehicle if it was not moving (to use an extreme example) should in theory miss the snorkel intake completely due to the shape, unless it gets sucked back upwards by the airflow. However it works, it definitely does because you can see it when driving along in rain. I've always wondered if there was water in the bottom of my snorkel body but don't feel like drilling a hole in it to check...

Your experience is greater than mine then

So far the wear rates look pretty good here but it is early days yet. I get about 25k miles out of a set of BFG AT's on our roads here on my Discovery 2, which would probably frighten most people running them on tarmac all the time if got 15k to 20k out of a set of AT2s then I would be happy. The AT2s are about £20 a corner cheaper at what we are selling them for, which is more than UK prices due to freight, but presumably the difference is much the same over there. One thing that is not in doubt is that the AT2 tyre carcass is really, really strong - as good as or possibly better than BFGs and certainly better than most others. It does very well in the "poke an uninflated tyre with your foot test" which is usually a good indication of strength

The Grabber AT2 seems to be a pretty good tyre too, but I do like the look of the Discoverer S/T, tempted by those when I need some new rubber for the Discovery.

Yeah that is what I was trying to say - a picture is worth a thousand words

anything would be a lot lighter than the 07MY bonnet! the weight reminded me of an old bonnet, with a waterlogged foam insulation inside it definitely not one to be whacked round the back of the head with

They have something of a reputation for wearing out rather quickly here too, though it has to be said the problems seem to be mostly on vehicles such as Pajeros/Surfs (spit/spit) which run in 2WD on the road and are mostly driven by idiots. I wouldn't put too much money on a narrow tyre like a 235 lasting for too long, the old Kumho 834 235/85R16 tended to wear out fairly quickly and these will probably be worse if the other sizes are anything to go by. Reports of their off road abilities vary from not that great to pretty good, but for that set I think I'll stick with the 13.50 Mudzillas I have got on order

Mine were too, but alas not slotted enough maybe a "Td5 age 300Tdi" chassis is built slightly differently, the LR towing kits are all the same but then they are crossmember mounted with legs so the tolerances are not quite so important as in a one piece unit. I believe I read somewhere that Dave actually gave up making the guards for 90s because the chassis were so variable... Once I gave up trying to fit it "properly" and accepted that I had to do some mods to make it fit, it didn't actually take too long once I had borrowed some big drill bits from work

Yep, that is the solution just fitted one (see photos on the thread linked to <<< ) and have used it with a NATO hitch on my Sankey trailer, and with a twin axle Ifor Williams on the 50mm ball. It was a pain in the butt to fit, but worth it in the end, very well made and actually quite cost effective compared to buying a separate tank guard and towing pack neither of which would have been as versatile B) Winch bumper is a nuts and bolts job the worst bit is usually getting the old bumper bolts out!

Well I will be fitting ARBs as and when my diffs start making noises, which history indicates they probably will (diff centre problems on my last 90, my current Discovery and my last Discovery...)

genuine for me don't bother with non genuine copies of genuine rubber ones they aren't worth the hassle, last weeks or sometimes even days, best/worst record of mine is a set of shocker bushes in about 150 miles of which only 10 were off road!

265 would probably be OK then as you can fit them with a lift and a chop though not sure exactly how much of either is required

no idea about the question but we've got one on the hire fleet at work and I thought the brakes were pretty good actually... by eck the 3.0 intercooled model doesn't half go too

Yes there is a drain at the lowest point of the standard intake system which definitely needs sealing up if you intend to submerge it as its only a silly rubber flap. Details are in the thread linked above, in the tech archive. I run my Safaris facing forwards and I haven't had problems. It does suck more dust than the old Rebel snorkel with the swirl pot on top though. Not enough to bother me here. I figure that the Safari design must tend to collect water in the bottom of the snorkel body, it has runoff channels around the edge of the snorkel top so that water which goes in at high speed (eg driving in rain) in theory will woosh round the back of the snorkel top and run out the drain channels around the edge, but if you were pressure washing or something then I would think some water is inevitable. What happens to it, I'm not sure, but I'd suggest it would need to be a fair amount to cause any problem. If you are driving into heavy rain you can certainly see the water dribbling out the drain channels.

Sounds like the perfect excuse to fit an ARB to me

I know KL71s are available now as 225/75R16 and 265/75R16, but I'm not sure if the 235/85R16 size are available in the KL71 pattern yet (we haven't had any but I haven't tried to get any recently as it isn't a popular size here - too narrow) but I think that is all you will get in 16" sizes. The 225s will definitely fit a Discovery but the 265s probably won't unless you have got quite a lift on - but then you must have a lift to be fitting 235/85? Some of the Kumho sizes are still only available in the old 834 MT pattern, Kumho seem to be changing over to the new pattern gradually size by size rather than all at once. I know the 31x11.50R15 are still only available in the old pattern, for example, but I don't know the status of the 235/85R16 size at the moment. Personally I would stick with BFG MT's though.

... to need new gearbox, transfer box, diffs, CV's First bootful of right foot would be ping bang graunch clunk bang bang thump screeeeeeeeaunnnnch as all the various components succumbed to twice as much torque as they were designed for

TDV8... 272bhp/472lbft in a truck cab 90... I want one B)

Lots available if you search here Famous Four one looks like a good bet right at the bottom here

They are a factory fit on some models but also a Genuine accessory - may or may not still be available now that the model has been discontinued (a lot of the accessory items are discontinued fairly quickly after the model changes) you might also find non genuine equivalents. The ones I have seen are all stick on, can't remember which is which but some of them you just clean the paintwork with meths to degrease it, then peel off a backing strip and firmly push the strips on, others use separate tubes of glue but I *think* the glue on ones I remember were probably Discovery 1 not Discovery 2.

Is it fitted with a fuel burning pre-heater? Could be that if so

I suspect you will find this is might be a very big job and not practical, but I might be wrong... I'm just guessing! Can't say I have heard of anybody doing it before but others may know different.

I fitted one to my old 1995 300Tdi 90, very easy, just run a couple of wires into the battery compartment, 40 amp relay and fuse, and a switch wire up to a second heated rear window switch on the dash. Doesn't have the timer that a "proper" one has but I am sure you can remember not to leave it switched on