BogMonster

Just bypass the spider as per the thread in the tech archive, if you are worried about it. Two bits of wire and 5 min soldering will mean you never have a problem again

You might be able to sell them copyright on the photos to go into a set of instructions, for a modest sum Many of the fitting or tech threads on LR4x4 are much better than manufacturers instructions. The instructions for fitting my Safari snorkel waffle on about sealing the water drain etc but completely fail to mention that there are about six ruddy great holes in the 300Tdi air filter can that you need to seal up before there is any chance it will be waterproof (something you might want to look at though I guess being a Td5 you will probably be avoiding bonnet-covering Welsh rivers in this one )

Is that a polite way of saying "the finishing is a bit sh**" I guess the new type still uses the plumbing inside the wing, like the older metal one?

I think the vehicles all changed from 10 spline to 24 spline somewhere around 1992 IIRC? My old Discovery 200Tdi was 10 spline (registered Feb 91) and I am fairly sure the late 200Tdis aren't. The majority of RRC's will be 10 spline I should think.

The shaft that goes through the planetary gears could be broken or fallen out (can't remember but I think it is only retained by a couple of circlips) All the diffs are basically the same as long as they are 24 spline between the following: 90 front and rear 110 front Disco 1 front and rear Disco 2 front and rear RR Classic I think! not sure about that There are minor differences such as the way the bearing adjusters are locked but I think the centres will be interchangeable - the whole diffs certainly are.

I think from memory the NAS vehicles have a GEMS controlled V8 engine don't they, rather than the 14CUX? Not something I have ever had any dealings with, as there are none here AFAIK.

Dave's Discofairy is a V8 being a NAS one Dave, as far as I am aware the central locking stuff is controlled directly by the 10AS alarm ecu and is nothing to do with the spider unit. Will check for you in RAVE and see if I can figure it out, but unless NAS vehicles are different (which is possible, and I probably don't have a NAS diagram anywhere) I think you will be fine with fitting a bypass. Which one did you get? Edited to add cipx beat me to it Good to see you dropping in Dave. I had a look on LRA earlier but some of the new boys seem to think they rule the roost after being there a month and don't welcome visitors I think some of them could use a history lesson!!! cheers Stephen

On such occasions my policy is always not to ask questions but to boot the F thing out quick before it goes wrong again

I just dumped mine in a bucket full of warm water overnight (no soap) and then gave it a woosh around and a rinse off in some more clean water the following day. Seemed to work well enough, it doesn't look "new" but clean enough. And don't forget the "hook through the glass door problem" if you put it in a washing machine

Aww spoilsport, SO many people bought the "saves weight" excuse for fitting alloy wheels Why not? It seems like a neat solution and is a lot easier to cut than a bit of 4 inch steel bar...

Yeah but I bet it is quicker to jack a vehicle up the extra foot with a Jackall than buggering around with a bottle jack underneath. Probably not much in it in terms of speed, between a jackall and a trolley jack. It certainly doesn't take me long to change a puncture with mine, particularly if I am in a temper, have a headache, and am late for something important

A cynic (definitely not me) might well say that the grease was introduced to reduce the incidence of leaks in vehicles still under warranty! The reason I don't like it is that it hides the underlying problem (leaking seal) rather than repairing it.

Blam!

tut ... assuming you have a 1.41 ratio transfer box I make that about 106mph Ian... must have been interesting in a 90 quite appalling behaviour Ever thought of joining the police?

Cheers Tonk that is what I wanted to know Not cheap but if you can sell a few of them that isn't too bad really ... depending on the thickness but assuming a mix of sizes, you could get ~10 pairs of spacers out of a 1mtr bar. Must go and measure a 110 spring seat and see if the same size bar will do the back of a 110 too...

I only carry a Jackall in the vehicle, with a proper adaptor - trolley and bottle jacks are fine on tarmac but try using them on a loose gravel road and they can be a bit wobbly to say the least However for normal wheel changing in the garage or if I get called out to change one, I have a cheapo Draper 2 ton trolley jack which cost about £20 and has done me for about 8 years with no problems. Trolley jacks are also much better than bottle jacks if you have to change a puncture wearing decent clothes, especially if the wheel/road are dirty ... crawling underneath to site a bottle jack means you get filthy and isn't practical if you are wearing a suit or something. If stored in a vehicle, a trolley jack which comes in one of the hard carry cases is much better/easier to store. Also beware of the little single stage bottle jacks with a screw section that you screw up to meet the axle before you start lifting - they can appear to work fine if you jack the axle up to try it, until you get a puncture and then you find that the single stage ram does not have a big enough lift range to get a completely flat tyre far enough clear of the ground to be removed and then get an inflated tyre on afterwards. If in doubt, let the tyre down completely and then try changing it for an inflated one. This is why Land Rover bottle jacks are 2 stage rams. No prizes for guessing how I found that out...

Toying with the idea of ordering a lump of thick alloy rod from somewhere to cut into slices of various thicknesses for alloy spring spacers both for myself and for sale at work... we've got a big power hacksaw thing which would do the job. Does anybody have an idea of roughly how much it would cost for, say, a 1 metre long length of alloy of about the right diameter for making spring spacers out of - 105mm diameter or thereabouts. Gwyn Lewis told me when I enquired a while ago that he had stopped making the alloy spacers because the raw material was so expensive but I'm not sure what sort of figure we are talking about. Anybody have a rough idea? Google was not very helpful... Ta

see the link in the tech archive on fitting a safari snorkel here including pics on page 2 of the thread: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=78 Safari or Southdown are the best options IMHO and don't forget the airbox!

We never send exchange stuff back to any suppliers due to the cost, not sure about Turners but most suppliers will do you a price for "outright sale" if you ask.

F************** Have you tried the suppliers like Turner Engineering? still not cheap http://turner-engineering.co.uk/html/cylinderheads.html but quarter of the cost of what you are quoting...

I have a 30kw propane space heater in mine so it warms up quite quickly A fan heater wouldn't make a dent in the temperature in mine though!

I've got one 6.5m x 9m double with a workbench across one end. If I built it again I would line it properly as it is a bit draughty in the winter time - you can build garages here by just attaching cladding to the timber framing and that is how mine was done to save costs but I regret it now. Not sure what the building regulations are elsewhere though, you might not be able to use such a simple method of construction. One more bit of advice. Don't use Hendersons roller doors under any circumstances - they are the most godawful overpriced under-specified pieces of cr&p I have ever come across. The only disadvantage of wood is that you get paranoid when grinding etc with sparks flying everywhere....

Quite fragile those a/c pipes aren't they?

Good link Shocked to discover how little my mint condition 37k miles V8 Discovery would be worth in UK though

If you want to do away with it you can fit a Tdi filter to the Td5 filter head and have a much more useful drain bung in the bottom. The filters are the same size and thread.