BogMonster

If there is play, unless the nut has come loose it will be major wear or partial disintegration (or both!) of the pinion bearings so no it is a stripdown job and reassembly needs to be done carefully. Hopefully gearboxdave may be along to shed his far greater wisdom on the issue in due course

Worth checking propshaft UJs etc if you have not already done that, and double checking the diff pinions etc to make sure. Basically check all the cheap bits before you go changing gearboxes

Play there will definitely be causing major rumble! I'm afraid it's a diff out job to change the pinion bearings and even then not entirely simple as you need to worry about crownwheel/pinion settings. Easiest option may be an exchange diff from Ashcrofts.

Not really OT as it heats my garage and with no heating, less is going to get done this winter I have a little Sealey space heater about 2 yrs old probably only done about 50hrs but doesn't work. Normally when you light the thing you hold down a button on the side of the gas valve to let the propane in, press the igniter and once it has been running for about 10 sec or so, can release the gas valve and it keeps running - there is a thermocouple thingy in it to shut off the gas if the flame dies for any reason. Trouble is - no gas. It worked fine last time I shut it off but now won't re-light and there is no "hiss" when you press the gas valve button. The regulator on the bottle is OK and producing gas at a reasonable "hiss" level from the supply pipe but nothing coming out of the heater when you press the tit in. I guess it's the valve unit - though I don't really understand the layout of the wiring to the 2 thermocouples (I think one must be overheat shut-off and the other must be the flame failure shut-off). I'm a bit reluctant to mess with it at the risk of transforming my garage into a colossal kaboom I guess this sort of valve arrangement is pretty common but I am not really sure how it works - there must be some sort of solenoid in it which opens when you put power on. Does anybody who knows about these things have any suggestions for what the problem might be and how it might be fixed (safely)? It is out of guarantee but really not very old so I don't want to chuck it away if it can be easily repaired - and there are none to buy locally at the moment anyway so it will be a bluddy cold winter if it can't be fixed Ta

Simple - when it breaks!

Interesting. I have just seen one of the "70 series utes" an Aussie bloke imported to here and while I haven't had a good look it seems a bit of a tank - massive leaf springs on the back that would shake out all your teeth on anything resembling a gravel road. Engine sounded nice - he said a 4.2L six - but that was about all that blew my skirt up.

Best I not say how much I paid for my new 110 then

Caps can crack when the cam belt snaps and the bits usually disappear never to be seen again. Usually people don't worry about it and I've yet to hear about an engine going bang because of one ending up where it shouldn't.

Yep, Tdi and Td5 are both history now, all will be the Fraud engine. Unfortunately we don't get any here till September at the earliest, I think they are struggling with demand in the UK and Europe, which I suppose is a good sign! I don't want one anyway - I have just bought a last of the line 300Tdi 110SW and that is what I will be keeping

If you mean a transceiver then the advice is always to wire direct to the battery or at least the engine compartment fuse box. It really isn't hard - there is space in the various grommets that go through the bulkhead into the engine compartment. My Icom VHF is wired this way.

I was trying to think of a way to say that as neatly as you just did but you beat me to it

Nice to see it has retained the key characteristics of a Td5 then i.e. not bothering to do what the driver tells it to Interesting to hear some views though, I won't see one till September at the earliest but am also looking forward to the first play even if I have no intention of buying one at the moment

Taking the fuses out will probably wipe the fault code but if it is recurring it shouldn't take them long to break it again. I seem to remember there are about 3 fuses between ECU and pump and modulator. If you are getting it looked at tomorrow it might be better to drive it there as is, as long as it isn't too far. I only did it because I had to wait for 3 weeks for the bits to come from UK and didn't want to be without the vehicle for that long.

I had that on my old one and it was a dud wheel speed sensor which caused the ABS to trigger every time you braked, but you need to plug it into a computer to find out which one... As a temporary measure you can take the ABS fuses out to disable the system and stop it triggering but you may have an interesting conversation with your insurance company if you run up somebody's tailpipe...

They rattle squeak and leak in my brand new 110 but they all do it, god knows why they haven't managed to make a window that works in 24 years of building 110s I will be taking them out and fitting the solid 90HT type rear side windows in due course, I know they do not fit exactly but I think they can be made to fit.

Grinding sparks will be pretty obvious in paintwork and they will etch into glass too! Run your hand along it and see how much blood you get out

I agree - at work, among other things I run a small hire fleet of mostly Defenders and when people get punctures they always moan because it takes ages to change the wheel with the LR issue screw jack, compared to 5 min with a bumper jack. The simple reason we don't is because I can do without liability claims from somebody who gets mangled fingers and a broken jaw! The LR screw jack is a pile of poo but it is fairly idiot proof as there isn't a lot that can go wrong. Using a proper jack adaptor removes a fair amount of the risk from a bumper jack then all you really need is to maintain it occasionally and hang on to the handle!

I would have thought it will be standard on the 07MY. They tried doing away with mechanical diff locks before (on the Discovery) on the grounds that electronics were wonderful and could do everything much better - then reintroduced them shortly after people found that swearing at the "three bongs" (Discovery ETC failure: bong bong bong and all the warning lights come on) in the middle of nowhere didn't do much for getting you home!

Don't bother with the plastic ones, they are stupid things which all break after a few bumps in the road never mind if you hit a bull!

Are you sure? It might have vacuum pipes but if it has water pipes that is a new one on me Can you post a pic? Also what engine is fitted (may be self explanatory from the picture of course!)

They are safe if treated with respect i.e. keep anything valuable out of the way Treat it a bit like a gun, i.e. if you peer down the barrel when it is loaded fill it up with mud and then bang it on the table a few times you may well come off second best.

Chaps....... Are you talking about Central Door Locking or a Centre Diff Lock, and are you both talking about the same thing Central door locking is probably part of the convenience pack but I doubt a centre diff lock is, though it would be a lot more convenient than getting bogged when the ETC panics and the 3 bongs light up to helpfully let you know you are about to get stuck

I use WD40 rather than grease on mine, works well. The other thing to check is that the pins are not painted on a new jack - it jams them up completely. I had to take the pins out of my Jackall when it was new, grind all the paint off with a wire wheel on the bench grinder, and then lubricate and refit them. It was completely hopeless before I did this and perfect afterwards.

There isn't a hard and fast rule on this as the engines were not always fitted sequentially but in general terms the engine number sequence goes 16L00001A to 16L99999A, 16L00001B to 16L99999B, 16L00001C to the end which is about 16L10000C or so. There are different prefixes 18L, 21L, 23L and so on but I think the serial numbers very roughly go in order so you can hazard a very rough guess on that i.e. if your engine was say 16L02345A it would be a pretty early one. The other option might be LR Traceability who may be able to tell you the original vehicle it was fitted to.

The Devon one looks like a Bearmach part number? and the diff guard looks to be the same one as BM sell too. http://www.rebel4x4.co.uk/steering_guards.htm from £39.00 for a basic steel one though I prefer shiny alloy (bling!) Rebel diff guards look cr*p but I assume they do the job...