BogMonster

Not very well http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=78 full info and pictures which show how poor Tdi airboxes are, I suspect others will be the same! My Safari is 100% waterproof, checked by blocking the intake and letting the engine vacuum and stall, and listening for hissing - none

All variants of the D2 have the double cardan shaft but a V8 one is a different part no to a Td5 one, though what the difference is I don't know.

Dad has a house out there on Zakynthos and drives back and forth every year to the UK. They go to somewhere in Italy and take the ferry across (then drive a bit more and take another one to get to Zakynthos but that won't affect you). Other tips - learn Greek

All early 300Tdi engines suffer from a problem with cambelt (timing belt) failure. This is due to some sort of misalignment in the pulleys and it can be corrected by one of two modification kits which were produced by Land Rover in 1997/98 – which kit you need depends on the vehicle age. Full details for fitting the kits can be found in a Land Rover Technical Bulletin, number 0008, dated 25 March 1998. If attempting to fit a kit yourself you should read this bulletin first as it contains important fitting information particularly for the option 2 kit which requires some modification to the timing case behind one of the new pulleys. The bulletin is available from RAVE CD’s or via the GTR online technical resource at www.landrovertechinfo.com which is a subcription service. The general rule of thumb is that any engine up to some time in 1997 may suffer the problem, and that early engines (1994, 95, and 96) will require the “big kit” (option 1), while later affected engines (late 1996 and 1997) will require the “little kit” (option 2). All VIN numbers referred to in this post are the last eight digits of the full 17 digit vehicle VIN number, e.g. for SALLDHMF7MA123456 the number you will require is MA123456. VIN details can be found on the VIN plate of the vehicle, usually on a plate inside the windscreen, and stamped into the chassis near the steering box. The cut off point for affected vehicles is: Discovery – WA748935 Defender – VA129096 RR Classic – MA664120 (after this the 300Tdi Range Rover was discontinued) After that point the modification was factory fitted to all vehicles and later 300Tdis do not have cambelt problems. The 300Tdi engines remained in production until late 2006 for some export markets with no sign of any cambelt issues. Parts Information Kit No 1 is “STC4095K Timing belt repair kit - Option 1” and contains a replacement timing cover, timing belt, crankshaft gear, tensioner, idler, injector pump bracket, side cover, gaskets, dowels and fasteners. Kit No 2 is “STC4096K Timing belt repair kit - Option 2” and contains just the timing belt, crankshaft gear, tensioner, idler, gaskets and fasteners. STC4095K – Kit No 1 – is fitted to vehicles in the following VIN ranges: Discovery: MA081991 (start of 300Tdi production) to TA200000 MA500000 to VA542370 TA700000 to VA711273 Defender: MA939976 (start of 300Tdi production) to VA101256 RR Classic: MA647645 to MA664120 STC4096K – Kit No 2 – is fitted to vehicles in the following VIN ranges: Discovery VA542371 to VA 558898 VA711274 to WA748935 Defender VA101257 to VA129096 RR Classic Not applicable – RR Classic was out of production by this time According to the bulletin, when fitting Option 2, an ERR7143 Seal Crankshaft Front should be fitted to vehicles in the following VIN ranges: Discovery VA548520 to VA558898 VA716697 to WA748935 Defender VA107351 to VA129096 RR Classic Not applicable – RRC out of production The last information I had suggested that Land Rover no longer supplied the kits as a Genuine Part but I know that as at early 2007, they were still available from Bearmach in the UK under the same part numbers. They may also be available from some other suppliers. I can also say from just having looked at one today that the Bearmach kit comes with a cast crankshaft pulley which is a better and stronger arrangement than the pulley supplied by Land Rover in the original kits – the original type had the lip spot-welded onto the front of the pulley which was prone to failure on occasions. Checking a vehicle You can tell whether a vehicle has been modified by checking the crankshaft pulley. If the crank pulley is plain (no lip to retain the belt on the front or rear of the pulley) then it is original and needs modification. If the crank pulley has a lip on it, then some sort of modification has already been done. Likewise, on an unmodified vehicle the idler pulley will have a lip on each side, this is replaced by a plain idler pulley in the kits. Vehicles with the modification fitted under warranty by Land Rover should have a dab of yellow paint on the timing case at least 2cm square, just under and to the right of where the aircon compressor is (or would be) fitted. You can check a vehicle for belt wear using a bit of wire, a thin brazing rod is ideal, or any stiff thin wire, an old wire coat hanger is another option. Bend a hook into the end about 0.5 cm long, and with the engine switched off (!) poke the wire up through the drain hole in the bottom of the timing case. Shove it up as far as you can, have a good scratch around and pull it out, and do this a couple more times. If the hook has a black sooty looking fluff on the end, you have belt alignment problems. If there is a tiny bit, it is probably not too urgent – you will get a double handful of the stuff out before the belt goes ping. If you are pulling loads of it out, get it looked at asap! Belt failure is not a catastrophic problem as it normally only bends pushrods and snaps 1 or 2 rockers but it usually happens at the most inconvenient moment. Prevention is better than cure – check it and fix it! Don’t forget the service life of the belt is 5 years regardless of mileage, so change it according to the schedule, it will perish and eventually snap. Some people suggest that the belt is an inherent weakness; if serviced properly, there is nothing wrong with it and in fact it is a lot better than some of the “miracle cures” that are advertised to end all your belt bother.

I'm not selling anything just an observation With sufficient over-engineering I am sure it would be fine and the risk no greater than the risk of a ball joint shearing off without warning (seen that happen before on a Shogun, fortunately without serious consequences as he was going slowly at the time)

I guess the big issue is that a blown hose means no fluid means no steering. People have been killed when hydraulic steering systems in boat outboard motors have failed due to fluid loss and the steering has gone to full lock instantly at high speed, flipping the people out of the boat and sometimes running over them on the return circuit. Not sure I'd want that in the middle lane of the M25... mind you I'm not sure I'd want it in a tractor with a trailer full of bales on the back at 25mph either!

OK, puts it in a different light then, I haven't seen any of those but then I do not stray far from the path of true righteousness that is LR4x4

I don't think they have. There is a set of Grizzlys here on a Discovery imported from UK and after a bit of use on the roads here they are absolutely shredded, blocks falling off all over the place. I'm surprised the guy is still using them, I keep meaning to get a photo but on the odd occasions I have seen the vehicle I have never had a camera with me.

I have a set of the Special Tracks and I can't be doing with the noise and handling on the road so I took them off again and they are sitting in the garage while I decide what to do with them. Not sure I would want to tow with them based on the handling without a trailer on the back...

Not angling for a discount on the basis of a good plug on the forum then? Prices are good too, when I get around to getting a Lodar it will be from there, much cheaper than others.

Land Rover never fitted factory seat belts to sideways facing seats in the back of 110 HT's, and so any installation will most likely not meet the relevant type approvals and probably the insurers wouldn't like it if they found out. Belts only fitted to 90's, and 110SW rear seats. I have just been through all this because of a change in seat belt legislation here. I think, therefore, that you will be allowed to use the seats without belts on road as LR never fitted them? Whether it is a good idea is another matter...!

Could be.... hard to say without seeing it

I haven't looked to make 100% sure but I expect it is in the LR4x4 tech archive.... If it isn't then it will be fairly soon Post up or PM me the VIN number, Jan 97 would most likely need a little kit fitted but need the VIN to be sure.

Sounds a bit childish to me. Some of the users on here have links to other sites and some of us have links to LR4x4 elsewhere and it doesn't seem to be a problem... its not as if you are going to stop people using other forums by banning links FFS

In imperial sizing it would be about 32x10.50R16 I know somebody who had a set on a D1 a few years ago but had a 3 or 4 inch suspension lift I think. The important thing is to have wheels of the right offset otherwise they catch the arches on articulation.

I didn't mention it but I find the demisting in mine is superb without a heated screen, it is one of the best demisting systems I have ever come across and keeps everything clear - even without using a/c - in heavy rain/humid conditions where most other vehicles are peering through thick fog In fact I find it is better not to use a/c for demisting as you find when you switch it off, the frozen moisture on the a/c innards sits in the system and melts, then you get a blast of damp air on startup which fogs the windows up doesn't happen if you leave it on Economy

According to the RAVE manuals the heated front screen switch is in the same block of six as the rear screen, just to the right of the climate control system... same place as the fuel filler release/hazards etc. Maybe the screen has been changed and a heated one put in by accident! No idea on the alarm - nearly-flat battery in the remote? maybe it has just enough oomph when it has been in a warm pocket but not enough when it has been hanging up in a cold house overnight? just 1 possibility

Probably If you do a "quick in and out" you might get away with it, have the new one ready to stuff in as quickly as possible and have some rags underneath to catch the fluid too otherwise it'll take all the paint off.

It's on top of the clutch master cylinder, little two pin plug on to it. To be honest I don't know if it is normally open or normally closed but I think probably normally closed as if you unplug it, the system defaults to "jerky" mode as if the clutch pedal is pressed. I guess it is a simple switch - on ones I have seen playing up, what sometimes happens is a delayed reaction when you press or release the clutch, so yes you could probably test it with a meter. I use a T4 because I have got access to one and it appears on the sensor overview, but a multimeter is a few grand cheaper It's probably not too expensive to just change it and see what happens though... I reckon it will cure the problem.

OK well I have to say I have not used them but I thought they looked like a good solution. Evidently not then

Check the operation of the clutch pedal sensor as intermittent/delayed operation when you press and release the clutch can do funny things to the anti shunt control.

There is something available which I think is called a "Jackmate" though I forget who makes them - may be David Bowyers? Basically it is a bracket which bolts on and gives a jacking point on the front of RR/Discovery and a towing point too - you buy them in pairs. That would be my choice, though the HD recovery eyes on the steering guards made by Rebel 4x4 etc are probably fine too. My concerns about the A bars come from the fact that 1) I have seen them break on rough roads without being used for recovery! and 2) I have also seen one pulled off before with not much effort... the fact they encourage people to try using them for recovery is bl**dy dangerous IMHO.

Container full would be a bit much - we usually order about 4 at a time I don't know what their retail price is in UK but I can confirm the trade price from Bearmach on the T-Max is a cracker a couple of those will be on order shortly to see if they are any good...

To be honest, though some of the A bars have things that look like recovery points, I wouldn't use them to pull more than a wheelbarrow.

Welcome This is much better than the old LRE forum because there is nobody called Richard Green around to b*gger it up