BogMonster

FWIW I once drove a 300Tdi auto on our company fleet and tried to take up off only a modest hill when it was stone cold - and I had to change to low range because it wouldn't move! You may find a little tweak on the injector pump improves things a bit, see tech archive for details, some of them are adjusted to run very lean, good for economy but boring as hell to drive. Doesn't take much to wake them up without any risk to the engine, just be careful of the smoke levels and don't overdo it.

Careful... A new set of standard springs and shocks will feel a whole lot better than an old set especially if they are original in which case they will be v tired! I had a spring/damper set from Famous Four (standard height HD springs) on my old Discovery and was pleased with it.

Standard fit are 205R16 (which is the same as 205/80R16 by the way) or 235/70R16, both of which are the same diameter to within a gnat's whisker. Some tyres are branded 205R16 and others are branded 205/80R16. I understand that if a tyre does not carry the /xx aspect ratio then you should assume it is /80 (though confusingly this doesn't apply to imperial sizes e.g. 7.50R16... ) and therefore it should be OK to use a mix of 205R16 and 205/80R16 on the same vehicle as long as the MOT doesn't get stuffy about different makes of tyre. As for the speedo - it shouldn't be "out" because under-reading indicates a speedo drive intended for smaller tyres, fitted to a vehicle equipped with larger tyres, so if the vehicle has a different speedo drive fitted it should actually be over-reading since 205R16s are the smallest factory tyre size. Borrow a hand held GPS like an eTrex would be my advice, they are very accurate in measuring both speed and distance on the trip meter (to check the odometer) you should quickly find out if there is a problem or not.

The output shaft seal on the back of the transfer box, and no I don't I am afraid... but I am fairly sure almost all LT230 output shaft seals are only one or two different numbers so it shouldn't be hard to find. You'll also want a new set of handbrake shoes, forget trying to clean them, it doesn't really work properly and oil tends to come out of the linings over time.

I think they all do? Does it feel OK when on the move? Is it something that has just happened, or a vehicle that is new to you? To be honest, hill starts in a cold Tdi of any description aren't great fun...

Can't remember the cost, prob a few £ each? I prefer the adjustable old-style system as you describe, that's why I had mine changed to that when I had a loose bearing.

It was never universal - only on 300Tdi autos and only in some markets - we didn't have EDC engines here at all. I have heard some say it is on 95MY Discoverys (MAxxxxxx vin number) though I have only ever seen it on 1996 and later UK spec ones (TAxxxxxx vin)

Selective spacers are p/no TOF100000 (purple/15.5mm thick) through ...010, ...020 etc to TOF100060 (white/14.9mm thick) and the hub stake nut is RFD100000 Guess if there is more than 0.6mm slack in the bearings then its over to Jim's method

The Td5 bearing spacers are available in about six or eight different thicknesses, I can't remember the numbers offhand though. The idea being that you put the bearing on with a spacer, check the slack in the bearing, substitute the next thinnest spacer, check it again, etc etc until it is right, then put the stake nut on the outside torque it up to silly tight and chisel the edge over onto the stub axle to stop it falling off. Quite what was wrong with the original idea of two nuts and a lockwasher I have no idea, and one corner of my 90 now has exactly the arrangement you describe! The others haven't needed doing yet. The only thing the new system does make easier is greasing wheel bearings if they don't need adjusting, because you can just take them off, grease them and put them back with the same spacer and it is immediately right, but then you need four new stake nuts (in theory - in practice you can often get away with as little as one new nut and re-use the others on different corners as long as the bit you need to "stake" is on a different side of the nut).

The only thing you can think of is absolutely correct The splines (and the skinny end of the shaft) should be at the transfer box end.

Who - MOG?

how do you normally deactivate the alarm?

Not 100% but my thinking is this. If you floor the throttle on an auto the engine will go up to the "stall speed" of the torque converter which is usually somewhere in the range 2200-2700rpm and it won't go any higher. The engine is developing pretty much maximum torque in this range, if its a V8. So if the engine is running full blast one way and then you start turning the output shaft backwards (which I am sure you could do with enough torque! though bearing in mind the TC has a torque multiplication effect I expect you'd need quite a lot) then the effect must surely be to drag the revs down so the "relative" speeds of the two are the same as the stall speed? I'm just saying that if the engine can run at 3000rpm while the winch is being dragged out then it sounds like there is something wrong somewhere, especially when you bear in mind the gearing effect on a winch. My thinking might be cocked up here but I can't immediately see why, anybody else got any thoughts?

That implies the torque converter was running backwards which implies there is a serious problem with it if the engine is doing 3000rpm? The stall speed of a TC should be less than that for a start... so if the output was running backwards it should have dragged the revs down so the "difference" was 2400rpm or whatever the stall speed was for that particular TC, I think?

What are those?

I think you will find "some trimming" to be an understatement

I have 265/75R16 Special Tracks and have not bothered to get them balanced - no steering shake you can notice. They howl like a banshee being fed through a mangle tail-first, but no wobbles...

Yes, very easy, four screws to take the cap off the compensator unit, the diaphragm is under that so you lift up the rubbery bit, wiggle it around and pull gently and it will pop out, careful not to lose the plastic collar off the shaft, there will be a loose spring under the diaphragm as well. Note the orientation of the "ding" stamped into the centre metal bit of the diaphragm before you move it, as it is critical for the fuelling that the diaphragm is positioned in the same way when you refit it, though you can also fiddle with it for more power, see tech archive for details Worth checking the pipe off the turbo as V8camel says, just to be sure, only takes 5 min. The ones I have seen it has been inconsistent though, sometimes it is blocked other times not, depends how it distorts as the turbo spools up. Another easy check is to squeeze the top intercooler hose tight between your fingers and then rev the engine hard, you should feel the pressure in the hose if the turbo is working. Edited to say the diaphragm is easy but it ain't a LR part so if it is split it is off to a specialist or a breakers yard for a replacement...

The most likely cause is the pipe between the turbo and the injector pump. It is a little black plastic pipe about 6mm or so in diameter which comes off the back of the turbo, runs round the back of the engine and goes on to the injector pump. Function is to "tell" the injector pump when the turbo is on boost to increase the fuelling. If it isn't connected the engine performs like it hasn't got a turbo on! Another related possibility is a split diaphragm inside the injector pump (much the same effect) I have seen 2 or 3 with this problem I suppose and its normally the pipe come off one end or the other, which would go with the sudden loss of power. A distant possibility is that the turbo impellor shaft has sheared between the two sides of the turbo, never seen it on a LR engine but I have heard of it happening, highly unlikely but worth checking I suppose to rule it out! I thought if the wastegate jammed you usually ended up with too much boost but I've never seen one jammed so not sure.

It's a good article and it was bluddy good fun making it you will find my name crops up "a few times" (OK about 50...) - I was one of the two vehicles leading the trip and it was the best week at "work" in 10 years

You want to check fairly carefully that those will fit, as according to http://www.tyresave.co.uk/tyresize.html they are 32" rather than the standard 29", so it would be v v f tight if they will go on... and I suspect they will rub on articulation. If it was me I'd stick with the AT2s, I think a 3" increase in tyre diameter would screw up the gearing for on road use.

Don't know but the immob system on the Td4 is a BMW system (because it is a BMW engine) and the immob is a passive unit built in to the key, the separate alarm plip just locks and unlocks the car and does the alarm, it isn't involved with immobilisation like on most other LR's which have the two button version. I suggest you carry the spare key for a while and next time it goes wrong maybe try it with the spare key? Unlocking and relocking probably has no effect on the immobiliser on these. It could be the pickup unit inside the steering column or something - IIRC the key doesn't have a battery, the immobiliser is "activated" by some sort of a signal from the steering column and responds to that.

Welcome Paul Wightman on here used to run a mechanical winch off a PTO on an auto IIRC, which is much the same set of problems as far as slippage in the torque converter is concerned. I don't think drive assist works because the pump is effectively coupled to the wheels not to the engine, so when the TC is slipping it isn't driving the pump either...

The V6 would be far too light on torque and far too buzzy (peak torque about 4500rpm I think?) for something heavy like a Defender, Series a bit lighter and I suppose might be OK. I daresay it would go well enough if you kept the loud pedal well down, but would probably be a bit like a Discovery Mpi in terms of driveability?

Right the info required on part numbers for the Td5 starter motor is: Contact set 10295 Plunger 7371 Brushes 9806 and the supplier is SAS Components Ltd www.sascomponents.co.uk they do lots of other bits too. Thanks to Shaun_D for this information - some will be on order very shortly