BogMonster

don't know who told you that but it is wrong for a std 2 button LR alarm system - the four digit EKA code is for key access and is entered via the drivers door lock, nothing at all to do with programming a new key fob you do however need a diagnostic system to program the new fob and you need to have the old one there too or it will stop working Testbook etc can read the EKA code out of the alarm ECU while you are at it, so you know it next time the fob gets dropped in an asphalt machine or whatever...

DOn't know about second hand ones but new is about £1500 for a set IIRC

I hate Youtube and Google because for those of us on restricted bandwidth connections you can't download and watch it offline so you need to start it playing, then pause it and sit waiting for most of it to buffer first, and you can't then save it to watch later either Somebody did suggest how to capture the video stream and save to a file once but I tried it and it didn't work. Anywhere that will let you host the file as a .avi or .wmv is the best way but I don't have any recommendations sorry, not my ISP anyway!

Correct, Goodyear MTR's and they are "expensive" but... ...that's "expensive" before you factor in the cost of a set of 19in rims if you don't have them already, at which point the option becomes "eek". They may have been fitted to the G4 vehicles but the LR marketing department has got more money than most of the rest of us... I did read somewhere a long time ago (in LRO I think) that Goodyear actually made that size MTR specially for Land Rover though I don't know whether it is true or not.

What can happen? On ice or hard but wet short green grass, a rather good handbrake turn, on any other surface, you may end up with tarmac/roof interface issues or a loud bang The transmission doesn't like it much though when I were young and foolish I used to do it occasionally in the old blue 90 and I never broke anything...

What would "the wife's motor" be exactly?

Welcome I don't think it has a service interval, "when it starts to rattle" is probably the honest answer. Rubber belts perish and snap, but the chain just gets progressively slacker - at 78k miles it is probably still fine I should think. I'd change all the oils including gear/t.box/axles/swivels for peace of mind.

35's are a bit of a struggle on a D3 unless you resort to a Stihl saw around the wheelarches B) I suppose the 18in MT market for Discovery sized vehicles is tiny - on a D2 you can fit 16in wheels and benefit from a huge range of options, and even on the D3 you can fit the 17in wheels and then there is a Cooper MT that fits, though it ain't nearly wide enough to support 2.7 tons of D3 in peat, that's for sure

Their loss, Les!

General do the new Grabber AT2 in 255/55R18 and from very very recently, 255/60R18 which is the "proper" size for Discovery 3's. The two Freelander 2's that Autocar thrashed around the Falklands for a week were fitted with these (the 255/55R18 size) and I can confirm that they went places that I never thought a Freelander would get Got through this and this Not infallible though So far, I don't know of an 18in mud terrain, if anybody does please shout! But if you are running the standard tyres then the AT2s will be a huge improvement and they look good too.

Tdi is 32mm Td5 and V8 is 36mm I use a long screwdriver and wedge it between opposing bolt heads. The trick is to put copper grease on the threads and not to do it up tight afterwards - literally a tug on the spanner with 1 finger is enough to tighten it. It won't come off (fan tends to force the threads tighter) and is a whole lot easier to undo next time

Mine flips every time if you give it a lot of LH lock and boot the throttle hard on loose gravel. Rest of the time, it behaves. I do know of a couple with similar problems here though, and we can't figure it out either One of many reasons I hate electronics. How often does an air locker throw up three bongs and a warning light when you weren't even using it?

Does it not affect waterproofing though? Not an issue where you are I guess, but I wonder if water ingress and corrosion would be a problem in damper climes?

Contact somebody like Bearmach they may be able to supply an OEM part? I don't know if it is available as OEM or not to be honest (may not be), but it is worth asking. Fit it yourself, apart from clearing the fault code (which is optional really...) there is no "setup" required on a Td5 AFM, just two jubilee clips and a multiplug to change it, 10 min job with a screwdriver. Wiring harness is much the same (i.e. easy) change the injector harness inside the engine (about £40) again a DIY job all that is needed is a small socket set to take the rocker cover off, unplug and pull out the harness, push new one into place pop the plugs on and put rocker cover back on. Get a tin of electrical contact cleaner, hose out the main harness plug at the engine end and blow out with airline if possible, take the plugs off the ECU and do the same, refit and you will probably be sorted. On very odd occasions oil does get into the ECU but almost never, and almost never does the whole harness need changing, I can only recall one we have changed in eight years or so.

All things are relative I guess

FFS Nige I just looked at that thread Words fail me...

Locks drive between front and rear axles. If you had a wheel spinning on each axle then it is working. To test it, jack up a front wheel with the handbrake on but vehicle in neutral (not in Park!), it should spin freely, put the diff lock in and it should not spin freely.

I seem to remember my experience of them involved unanswered emails and somebody else getting my money because getting ignored really p*sses me off, though I can't remember what it was for at the time.

It seems to play them in the order they were recorded on there I think, the track that used to be track one is still the first to play but it not by Aaron Aardvark so I think Si's suggestion may be the reason. No idea how to do playlists but I shall investigate... Ta

I recently fitted a Kenwood single CD/MP3 player into the 90, which has a USB inlet for memory sticks or even a small USB hard drive, so I can play MP3 music off a memory stick and get around the problem of the CD skipping on rough roads (so not entirely OT!) and having to carry a ton of CDs in the rover which get in the way or get damaged etc. But.... I can't figure out how to get the darned thing to play the tracks in the order I want. I originally thought it must be down to the filenames because the tracks, once ripped, are in the form 01_first_track_name.mp3 and 02_second_track_name.mp3 and so on. So I put the assortment of toons onto the memory stick (some ripped from CD, some downloaded from "a certain Russian MP3 download site") and renamed them but it still plays them in the order they were in before Does anybody know the secret to getting this to work? Ta

overheating is more likely to be a choked up radiator or lots of the little fins rotted away than anything to do with a bigger intercooler take the hint offered by the temp gauge and change the rad core, they are reasonably cheap from aftermarket suppliers

Mission impossible!

Yes it will be OK to undo that, but I am not sure of the torque setting on refitting. V F tight is usually good when in doubt

Our police force here ran two 01MY Td5 autos one for 120k miles and one for 130k miles no problems with the engines apart from the usual injector harnesses etc and one leaky radiator, they replaced them with two more 04MY Td5 autos which are now up to about 60k miles again the only problems being the injector harness on one. When the Td5 does develop a mechanical problem they usually seems to be fairly terminal, we had a 90 Td5 on the company fleet which ran well but was hard to start and lost a bit of coolant. It was taken apart for another problem (end sheared off a heater plug and fell into the cylinder causing the engine to make lots of alarming banging noises and then stop) and the block was split from top to bottom inside no.1 cylinder which explained the coolant loss we've got another one with similar problems but can't find the fault and no way of pressure testing it but I suspect the same disease. I know of a couple of others that have gone pop shortly after apparently fairly innocent problems so I would be wary of buying one with any sort of a known history of problems.

Likewise Jim. I must get around to ordering one, one of these days...