BogMonster

don't think so... new (post 2002) front propshafts have bigger UJs but I don't know if they are a wider angle but in a curious decision LR stuck with the same UJs on the back and to my eye the prop on my 90 looks the same as they always did?

I don't care that much so you can get on with work

The 255.70R16 are certainly fine in that respect. I have just taken the Insa Turbo's off my 90 for much the same reason - an inch extra in height doesn't sound much but the difference in "feel" is considerable from the drivers seat. As is the difference in noise

Logically a finer thread (UNF is finer than metric) should exert more of a clamping force than a coarser thread would for the same torque setting, but as pointed out above we are talking about LR tolerances here and the torque setting "VVVFT" (very very very F tight) works on most suspension bolts I assume the M16 being slightly fatter will fit through the bush Lewis? If so it may actually be a better bet as there is slightly less chance of movement... I just took the number out of a Discovery parts manual and the number is for a UNF bolt, presumably 5/8"x4" UNF. Maybe that is where the 321 in the part number comes from - 3+2+1=4 inches

I didn't check but I am pretty sure they are UNF not metric from the part number, if it was M16 the part number would normally be BH116xxx the last 3 digits being the length (expressed in units of nonexistimetres - or something else nobody knows about - but the bigger the number the longer the bolt!) BH6xxxxxL are normally imperial thread bolts/nuts so it is probably 5/8 UNF.

BH610321L.... and they are 100mm long.... ...which for anybody who thought the above was a facetious answer, I have just measured it on my 19" screen at work (no editing and no cheating) and what I drew is EXACTLY 100mm long so that was a pretty accurate guess naaah naaa

About ^-----------------------------------------------------------------^ that long on a 19" screen Don't know what actual size but they are all the same on all 90/110/D1 I think, as I'm pretty sure the bushes are all the same. Ralph! get over here now If Ralph in on strike today I will try and find one to measure at work in an hour or so.

oh I see... sorry - way over my head then - I can only count to 10 or 24 and as far as I am concerned the spline is the groovy bit in the end and I don't know if it is British or normal or making a din I'll leave you to it then

Welcome 1. If it is really smoke then it is definitely to worry about if coming out of a petrol tank if it is vapour then no. 2. Probably not far out, if the temp gauge is normal. I'm assuming as you have a petrol tank rather than a diesel tank its a V8 and they do produce a lot of heat.

Only if it is a Td5 though

10 spline on older vehicles 24 spline on newer ones and generally reckoned to be stronger no idea on "norms" never heard of it! why make your own? they are available for next to nothing as cheap aftermarket parts and if you want super HD ones then you will probably have a lot of false starts in tempering etc before you get to the level of the likes of Ashcrofts

that would be the one I was thinking of then - fitted my old Disco 2mm is neither here nor there on a fan belt so that would do the job

RRS and D3 are basically the same vehicle under the skin as far as chassis and drivetrain goes. Peer under the back end of a RRS and then under the back end of a D3 and you will see what I mean.

Departing slightly from the topic, somebody was telling me the other day about an old RRC with an early electric pumped ABS system he was trying to fix. Apparently it was fine until you touched the brake pedal even gently then all four wheels locked absolutely solid instantly and wouldn't come off until you loosened a pipe on the ABS unit to relieve the pressure. Kind of an interesting "failure mode" to build in to a braking system not surprised they binned the electric ABS systems fairly quickly, could be rather fun if that happened on the outside lane of a motorway

Tut - pay attention James Taint for me - I'm trying to answer a question over on RIBnet about the feasibility of towing a bluddy big boat weighing 2.7 tons without the trailer. He's looking at a trailer with coupled brakes and the question is whether the vehicle can be fitted out to use them or not, because the trailer probably weighs about a ton and as such will be over the 3500kg limit for over-run brakes but probably within 4000kg. I don't even get pulled for having no lights on my trailer though in a recent concession I have bought a trailer board I lash to the roof rack so that following traffic can see some brake lights and indicators, if they can't see an 8 foot wide bright orange boat then they deserve to get a prop through their radiator!!! All I will say on the subject of brakes on my boat trailer is that I don't have problems with them sticking on at all even with regular dunking in salt water

interesting, thanks what controls the braking effort on the trailer then, some kind of mechanism in the tow hitch, or is it linked directly to the vehicle brakes?

Some Land Rovers have a max towing figure of 4000kg with "coupled brakes" rather than the 3500kg which is the limit with conventional overrun brakes. What does the coupled brake system consist of and what drives it? electrical? PTO? I have never seen or heard of such a system apart from in the weights pages of the vehicle handbooks - somebody over on RIBnet has a 2.7 tonne RIB (yes it is a very nice one) and is struggling with the 3500kg limit by the time a trailer is added but might be able to keep it under 4 tons. Any ideas anybody? Ta

No, but I would have to ask why? The D2 bumper is a one piece unit so instead of breaking the end caps every time you drop into a ditch (at about £30 a go) you break the end off the bumper at IIRC the wrong side of £200 a go OK on a vehicle used on road and of course the advantage is that being plastic they don't rust, but I am always acutely aware of how fragile it is on the odd occasions my D2 goes off road.

IIRC the serpentine belts have a manufacturers number that is generic and gives the number of grooves and the length so yours would probably be a 7PK2240. By far the longest belt I can think of is the ones on V8 Discoverys etc which have aircon fitted. I'll have a look and see if we have got one at work later if I remember, but the 2240 rings a bell, I think it could be one of those in which case I will check the LR part number.

I think Td5s are the only LR products to use the ND motor, Tdi engines have an altogether more reliable Bosch unit which never ever ever goes wrong unless you drown it in salt water or something. Having said that Discovery 3 starters do not seem to be the best so maybe they are ND too, I haven't checked. Unfortunately I can't really take the motor in to match old bits but I am waiting for a reply from a supplier somebody PM'ed me about so if I get anything back from them I will post it up

In fairness to Richard I have used him a few times, initially for a set of lifters for my old red 90 then a few people saw them and I ordered them via work and then got another set for the new 90 and have had a couple more sets since then, and he has always been excellent, even to the extent of suggesting supplying all front type lifters to save on postage because the hole is lighter just wondered what was going on as emails are bouncing but somebody has PM'ed me with his mobile number so if I don't hear anything in a day or two I will call... apparently he has been ill for a few weeks.

Number of holes is quite important too - I really struggled to get those six stud Shogun rims on to my Discovery but after a while with the electric drill I got them on I am also fairly sure they won't fit... I think D3 stud spacing is somewhere between Freelander and "proper" Land Rover wheels.

Or be like Nigel_from_Hell and bolt your winch on with 148 bolts which means that anybody with less than a week to spare would take one look and walk away

Thanks I will try again later ... if no joy on email I will try ringing - it costs a fortune from here but hey I am not paying for it so what the hell

Does anybody know if Mill Services are still going? I have sent 2 orders from work for spring lifter in the last couple of months and neither has turned up, sent an email today asking what was going on and it was bounced back as undeliverable The website is still all there but that doesn't mean anything except that the domain and hosting are paid to date. Who else does the spring lifters? Doesn't really matter if they are welded up steel ones or slices of alli rod, either would do and whatever is cheapest. I just did a Google but nothing immediately leapt out at me (apart from the Mill Services pages...)