BogMonster

Not really. In fact having been involved in a contract to put speed limiters in a load of military vehicles here to stop them driving off the side of the road rather too often, we found that the 3 track ones caused more trouble than the old ones. The third track is some sort of error checking between the other two, in practice it doesn't get you home though, just makes the check engine light come on...

Hmmm Safety Devices. Ordered four cages for customers in, when was it, oh yes that right last MAY with an 8 week delivery time quoted (which was fine at the time) still waiting in November..... though I think they might at last be on their way (they'd better be or they can shove the order up their ar*e as indicated in the "Dear Sir, unless" letter I wrote a few weeks ago) My advice would be don't bother unless you're not planning on needing it for a year because all you'll probably get is a load of excuses about moving to Poland etc etc blah blah. A shame because I'd dealt with the original SD for a number of years and they were always good and fairly quick. I've got details from other suppliers and settled on the P&P ones for any future requirements having heard from a few people who were pleased with theirs.

There are 2 different Td5 pedal sensors, a "2 track" and a "3 track". The 2 track was used up to about 2002 model (vin number ending in something like XAxxxxxx YAxxxxxx or 1Axxxxxx, think the pedals changed at about 1A607xxx can't remember the exact point) and the 3 track pedal is fitted from all vins after that i.e. all later 2A, 3A, 4A etc. Plugs on the pedal sensor are the same and they look the same on the outside, you need to check the p/number on the pedal. PM me the part number off your 2 pedals, and the VIN number of your vehicle if you're not sure and I'll check from work tomorrow, because I can't remember which is which offhand. But if the one you put in is a different p/no to the one you took out, it won't work as a straight swap. You can set the later Td5 ECU (meant for 3 track) to use a 2 track pedal, but you need a Testbook/T4/Autologic to do it. I don't think you can set an old vehicle to use a later type pedal.

All K-series are scrap engines

No, mine only has door/ignition on the same key and 1 extra key for fuel cap, no CDL

The early Td5 door was the same as the 300Tdi age vehicles, it only changed in 2002. If (as it sounds) you have the later 2002> rear door, then you'll need the whole lot i.e. interior trim, wheel carrier, new door glass etc, all are different. I actually thought the door lock was the same though?

Depends on where you use it - the ones here all have the solid rear door and the "sealing" is appalling and the dust pours in on clay roads. Most people that have them, have made up extra seals to try and cut down the dust ingress, with reasonable success. They will only break on rough roads, a bit like lots of things (Discovery body mountings for example) used on surfaced roads and slow speed off road will be fine I expect.

I agree - one reason I went for a shorter length though I later decided (when I got the second rope) to go for a longer length as the Milemarker doesn't seem to bother about whether its on the 1st layer or the top one and it goes a bit quicker when there's lots of rope on the drum

I've only seen 130 ones but basically they fit by bolting down through the "gutter" that runs around the load bed on a 130. They also let in a lot of dust on unsurfaced roads and if used regularly on rough (gravel) roads they break after a couple of years - all the thin alloy cracks up with fatigue. Probably fine on sealed roads though, we break lots of stuff down here Oh and if you roll the vehicle they go a bit flat too

Tony, Had you considered that if you need the full length of the extension, your main rope will be 25ft too short when you take the extension out I suppose you could double the extension back on itself part way through with a snatch block, if you had a spare one hand. I have about 90ft on the winch and a 75ft extension which I made from the original length of Dyneema I had on the winch.

I did the same when I first drove an auto Discovery. Hit a cattle grid a bit hard which tripped the inertia sensor so the hazard lights went crazy, stopped and engine off to reset it, back on and it wouldn't start. Looked under bonnet, looked at this and that and scratching head, went to leave the vehicle and went to put it in park and - erm - ah - muppet rather sheepishly restarted and continued on my way

I was amazed at the video mode on my S9500, used it for the first time on the Autocar launch and have some good clips of Freelanders splashing through the surf B) bit hungry on the memory card though, about 7 min on a 512MB card but at least it can do continuous video not like the cheaper ones which usually give you about 20 sec maximum. Only thing I wish it had is the image stabiliser but I can live without that for taking photos in my bedroom garage

There something called Dux Diamond (?) that comes on the Milemarker Type R, supposed to be semi-rigid though I don't think I would want a rope with an erection Yours should be lasting quite well at the moment Will?

Scorpion?

on what sort of vehicle 90 110 or 130? I run my 265/75R16s (similar size) at about 25psi all round but we don't have 70-80mph motorway speeds here! also depends on what sort of load you have in the vehicle RAVE says 28 front 35 rear for 265/75R16 on a 90

It is a non-servicable item and many £££ - having said that there are quite a few Discoverys here including a few high-milers (police vehicles) and I've not seen one dud wheel bearing yet.

Canon Powershot S3 IS is the one I was thinking about, details here. Very good write up in Digital Camera Shopper in July 06, 12x optical zoom with image stabilisation and 6 megapixels. I nearly got one myself and the only reason I didn't was because I really wanted a manual zoom ring like on a "proper" camera, the Fuji had it and the Canon didn't. I always get mine from Park Cameras they do mail order I think, but offer tonnes of good advice (at least in the shop) and may be worth a call to talk about what there is at around the £200 mark if you don't want to go for the S3. The only other thing I'd say is get one from a camera manufacturer rather than an everything including the kitchen sink manufacturer - i.e. Casio/HP. Anything from Canon, Fuji, Olympus, Pentax etc would be my choice.

Remember the old saying: "If it has t*ts or wheels it WILL give you problems...." So they must all be "she"

Depends on whether you want photos just for on here, or a good camera for everything and spend a bit more. I just changed my compact 4MP Olympus (which used to suffer most of the same problems you describe, though it could take good pics in decent light) to a full size superzoom Fuji, and the difference in low light performance is like night and day. Also worth looking for one with an anti-shake (also called image stabiliser) function, there is a new Canon out which has this for a bit over £300, I'll have a look later and check the model name. Edited to add: optical zoom is MUCH better than digital zoom which reduces quality quite a lot!

I do the same, supply originals and untouched e.g. no gamma correct or lightening/darkening because the photo professionals will probably be better at it than you or I They always ask for the pic in the maximum size possible, I provided some to Autocar for the recent Freelander supplement and that was what they wanted so they took the full 9 megapixel ones even though they were only a couple of inches across in the final product so would have been about 1500dpi! What they want to avoid by getting the biggest images possible, is something called a "moire pattern" which happens when the photo resolution is similar to the print resolution, you can get some really odd effects on things that have patterns e.g. corrugated iron roofing and it looks truly orrible!

Probably the belt needs tightening up - V belts are a bit inclined to slip when wet, especially if not tight. If it has been slipping for a while you might need a new belt...

Mine regularly gets referred to as F****** B**ch so I guess that makes it a girl, and the fact it is there to give you a ride, keep you warm and go travelling with, supports the theory. Just need to teach it to cook and use the hoover

You lot wouldn't know South if you fell into the Channel

Personally I'd go for the biggest meanest central point I could fit on to the crossmember and forget the bridle or JATE rings. I have a bridle made of 24mm nylon (12 ton) with protected eyes, which I rarely carry and have never used, I made it when I was feeling industrious and had some spare rope, to use on the front. Part of the reason for this is that JATE rings are held on with 1 x M10 bolt each so you have a breaking strain for 2 x M10 bolts vs. 4 x M12 bolts (NATO or Camel style HD hitch) or 2 x M16 bolts (normal jaw) for a tow hitch.... I haven't done the sums but its obviously going to be a lot weaker even with a bridle.

They do come loose on R380s (though not the later ones, not that I have seen anyway) but you lose all gears (sometimes ends up jammed in one gear) and you can stir the gear lever round in circles with apparently no gates or gears or anything