integerspin

The pic below is an average cut, well it's actually the first cut I made on a bit of 8mm flat stock. The lump at the near end is the end of the cut, I have never mastered the end of the cut;-)

We bought a large custom built cabinet and big road compressor, but we hated blasting so got rid of it. We also had an extractor. A few months after we got rid I found I needed some parts beading and knowing how complicated it was;-) I bought a bag of bead and found an old plastic drum, I glued an opening metal window frame in the top of the drum and cut a couple of armholes[i riveted some lengths of inner tube to them]. The gun I use is a lectrostatic[?] spot blast gun with a length of tube to pick the bead/grit from the bottom of the drum. The setup has been used since 1989 and works fine. It needs a new gun as the bead has worn a hole thru the top of the body and the nozzle has virtually disappeared. The Guyson cabinet came with a pair of siphon guns, one was a cast thing and the other looked like it was migged togther by a kid, from scrap, so a gun shouldn't be hard to make. The pressure pot we had worked faultlessly and I never really looked at it, but there are plans all over the internet for them. If you want to clean heavy parts quick you need a pressure pot and chilled iron grit. I keep seeing people mention bead and aluminium oxide in pressure pots. The extractor was very simple, a large box enclosing a huge mohair sock and a squirrel cage fan on top to evacuate the box. The extractor sucked from below the grid and before my mate ran a bag of Jblast through the cabinet you never saw any dust in the workshop,well a bit round the cabinet from opening the door and so on after the Jblast every surface was dusty/gritty. Apart from from being able to see what your doing[try blasting grey paint of motorbike frames;-)], there is no air dusty coming out of the cabinet into the workshop, the air coming out is fitered and can be squirted out of the workshop if needed. With siphon blasting I never wear gloves. someone mentioned Soda, where did you buy it? I wanted to try it.

I bought a 50ml bottle last week;-(

I have been replacing them in aluminium bike frames since they have been used and haven't had any problems with them. I use yellow passivated zinc plated ones and dip them in dinitrol.

I use one of those, mine has a pin on and goes in the jack instead of the cup.

Any welding shop will have rods, but they really want to sell packs. Try ebay, you will find small qts of rods.

Try barretts used tooling.

I just stuck it in google and the first result was Cromwell who sell the blades.

Look around for places that grind taps, when my local place still did it in house taps cost was based on size irrespective of form and pitch, I had a 5/8-20 Lh ground and it was thirty quid. Also look for listing for UNF, UNS and other UN thread series are often just listed as UNF.

I will have to buy one, I buy aerosols at the moment. I haven't yet paid much more than 2 quid a can, but recently was horrified when I picked up a can and it was £6! No I didn't buy it, bought it somewhere else for less than £2.

If you can't get it re-sealed and you get another ram I would be interested in the old one. That harbour freight one was only $39 last time I saw it. There is one at $34. I will get a postal price on it.

I made one you could borrow. not near you though. Theres not a lot to them, make a dummy injector or heater that takes an pressure gauge and thats it. I used a 1000psi gauge, your going to see around 250 psi, so a 500 psi gauge would be better.

I used to replace springs on my race car with the head still in place. we used a leakdown tester fitting to put 150psi into the cylinder to keep the valve shut, then we used a homemade lever/hook that went under the rockershaft to pushed the valve retainer down. I have seen it done with string and a ring spanner, cylinder packed with string and the ring spanner put on the retainer, then the bloke stood on the ring spanner; I mentioned this when someone asked about doing this, he didn't believe me so we changed a spring on an old sherpa engine like this.

Waste oil isn't going to be a lot of good, I used pukka[read expensive] synthetic neat oil from a place with screw cutting machines on my saw. It was carp, the metal came off very hot and the saw blades didn't last a long time. I use Hysol or Cooledge and it's great, they are soluble oils. None of my stuff came with pumps, there must be loads of pumps somewhere, I tried a rangey screen pump and it worked but not for long[it did last a lot longer than a normal car screen pump]. I use an old holley fuel pump works great, you can use an old bulb or ballast resistor to slow it down. I was going to try an old lift pump on my saw, I am sure it would be possible to find a reciprocating bit to pump it. If you want to buy a litre of soluble oil I just bought 25 litres and would happily sell a litre.

Try a bike shop bike calipers have stainless R clips in the pins.

Mine is sort of like the thing in the picture but I think it has two radi in the ali[haven't used it for a while], and it's a tight fit in the bit of metal with holes and just needs knocking in. I could probably reach in past the ****e and grab it and photograph it if you really want.

I don't know anything about generators, could you run an old transformer welder[tig] off one? I was wondering about the unbalanced load with only two phases being used. HF continuous on my welders has mean't it works continuous on AC, but stops after arc starting on DC. I ran a 300 syncrowave at home on domestic supply.

I found a list of makers it was something like an SAE publication, it seemed all fasteners with a grade should have source markings.

VFD and a 3phase motor.

3mm is a lot, the nut probably is about to go;-) I don't think backlash matters a great deal. I was going to make a new nut and screw for my CVA, a suggestion of someones was to scrounge a worn leadscrew from myfords[he lives near them] and use the unworn bit. He made a tap from part of the unworn leadscrew.

No mention of Matsuura?

!!!!!!!!!!!! We have different ideas of affordable.

If your chucking an old one away could you cut off one of the straps and let me have it? The ones that you use to hold the rear window bit when it's rolled up. Mine tore off last year and I really ought to sort it.

Liners are a consuamble, last liners I bought cost something like a quid. A complete binzel type euro torch was only 25 quid or so last year. the plastic liner is PTFE and is for ali wire. As far as I know the liners are all the same, buy a liner suitable for .6[.8uses the same liner I think] and in the right length, not sure if length is a factor as they are always far to long and you trim them to length. Fit a nice new tip and clean wire and see how it goes. If it doesn't feed your going to have to use .8 wire, has to be bad[sIP] not to feed that. I don't buy my wedling stuff from mylocal welding shop, far to expensive, I use john davies in liverpool, the website disappeared a few months ago, I don't know if he is still in business. Don't buy 15 kg rolls of wire unless your using it a lot or it's in a dry place, I find I am always chucking rolls of rusty wire away.

CLICCKME For pdf of V8 block-face The holes that look like they should be symetrical aren't, accoriding to the dimensions. I would want to check all these on a block before cutting any metal, like I said the holes In the adapter I took the measuments off were all pretty bad. The crank center is the origin.