integerspin

The bellhousing doesn't look any shorter than a Sherpa one? I have a sherpa bellhousing and block plate, also got starters and flywheels. What flywheel did he use, he did ask about an adapter when he was going to use the series box and he wanted a hole in the adapter for a magnetic pick up? By the way He's Marko, I used to forget and write Marco, always got a mail back saying my names not Marco;-) Here's a bit from an email in 2005, after he rolled it: LT77/LT230/Series setup worked real nice with the 2.0 turbo - nice and perky on-road but not insanely high revs and stonking crawl speed in lowbox 1st. 25mpg around town, 30mpg on the motorway, worst ever 20mpg (but rolled it getting the economy that low). Can't ask for more for something with V8 driveability! -- Marko

It goes in pretty much the same as the Prima engine, Marco was looking for a Prima engine at the same time as I was. I think he was given a van engine then someone gave him a complete turbo car and he used what he had. When he was given the van engine I think he got an LT77 with it? That must be about 2003 I am not sure on the details.

I liked the shaft drive harley.

That's what i was trying to avoid. There is a fan in the top of the oven, it blows the hot air from inside the case out the front. So the fan will be blowing over the top of the extension, if it's double skinned and rockwool filled, the rockwool is going to have to be sealed in to prevent dust. Still I have enough ali left to doubel skin it, so it likely thats what I will end up doing. The double skin will also have to come off to remove the extension, the bolts holing it to the oven are located round the edge. I should'nt have been such a skinflint, I should have paid someone to coat the bits[no couldn't be doing that], or wet painted them. I shoudl have built an oven from scratch;-) Or not thrown away the old sterilising oven from the hospital I used for carbon.

I was wondeing if anyone isntalled them. I just made an extension for my garage oven, to powder coat some long parts not to heat long sausage rolls;-) I don't want to use rockwool/fibreglass as it will be dusty[won't it], the oven blows air thru the front and will possibly blow dust everywhere. I was going to use PIR board, eventually got a mail from Celotex telling me it defineitely wasn't any good for 200ºC. I am sure there must be ceiling tiles that insulate and if they are fireproof they will be OK for half hour[at most] at 200ºC. I asked in a builders merchant's they weren't to helpfull. Most annoying thing is I extended the oven 14.5", a pair of rocker covers and a pair of girder forks I need to coat fit. I just found a couple of items that could do with coating, they are a few inches to long to go in the extended oven.

I have used the Newton copies of Shaw fillers in several styles, I bought most of them from think auto. Look up Newton fillers on google, they are based in Romford. It wouln't be hard to make a suitable flange to bolt the cap to if you got a flange mount and/or you could buy a replacement cap for a bike if you did that.

A mate made a manual tyre changer on the front of his race car trailer, basically just a post to stick the wheels over. He went in to the horley tyre service and scounged a tyre lever and changed hundreds if not thousands of tyres on it. I did sort of the same but I made the upright so it slipped into my engine crane base. removing landy tyres takes a few seconds. Putting them back on is a different matter, I had vague recolections of what the tyre lever should look like but made a few and was never that happy. a bead breaker on the above 'manual machine' was really simple, I drilled a cross hole in the tube that goes throught the wheel and made a sort of lever that pivoted on an old bolt stuck through the cross hole, I had a bit of old leaf spring welded to the lever, the leaf spring was the equivalent of the bead breaker on proper machines. the most surprising thing is you only need a lever about 2 foot long to easily push the bead off land rover tyres. I had the same bead breaker chained to a bit of rsj for 20 years or so and it was use on bike and car wheels. I have no idea about balencers, spose you could just do it staticly. I balance bike wheels with a broom stick and a pair of axle stands;-) Does anyone near me have a tub of soap. I put some bike tyres on last week and the only slippery stuff I could find was tallow. I probably have to change anotehr pair soon, I might try beeswax this time;-)

That sounds about right. But it's years since I had an oil temp gauge. I have a montego oil cooler[water cooled] so the oil probably warms up much quicker.

I thought it was the same pump as the Montego pump? I knocked up a gauge. You time the Montegos to 50 thou lift, the book should have the figure.

I bought a surefire single mode torch recently. 300lumen and it lights up my garage even when I have 6*120W fluorescents on; don't think it's as bright as the one shining on that door though. I borrowed a multimode one a few years ago, it was a pain as you had to cycle through the modes to turn it on/off, but reading the blurb it sound like the multimode ones on ebay aren't like that. Do you have to click through the modes to turn them on/off? I am looking for another as I bought one with an 18650 battery, but without a charger, so thought I would get another with a charger[you can never have to many torches], but am not sure about the multimode bit.

When I put my first compressor together I had a water problem. I went to see the old boy I bought the electric motor off and he was using a setup with a 6foot high 2" steel pipe between the pump and receiver and an old gas cylinder after the reciever, before any filtering or regulation. I copied the set up and used it for spraying, and running air tools pretty much all the time. I never saw any signs or water after the first filter, I don't think I ever had to drain the second filter. I altered the setup and removed the pipe and cylinder a few years ago. I don't use a lot of air now and didn't think I would have any problems. The next time I was blasting I had water in the air. I added a new tank before the filters and it seems to have cured it. I ran a large road compressor for blasting at one time and there is obviously a lot of water to get out of the air. I ended up with the air piped through roughly a metre cube of condensor which sat in a huge water tank, we had to leave a drip leg drain part open for the water to run out of. We went to a local air conditioning place and they pointed at some shelves and said it was all scrap take what you want, we had several of the largest condensors.

I ran with the return teed before the lift pump. People said there will be air in the returned diesel, where does air come from? I ran it for two years and not a problem, keeps the chip oil nice n warm, infact you might find some filters don't liek the heat. My reason for doing it , apart from it was quick, was with military tanks you need taps to direct the return. Only problem I found was if you don't clamp off the return bleeding takes forever. I put the returns in to the tank after a few years, mainly to see if it would be any different. I didn't have any alternatives to drilling into the tank, so I drilled a hole and bolted an old fuel banjo into the top of the tank with a banjo bolt. The banjo worked perfectly on one side but the other side leaked, so I made a couple of brass filttings to bolt to the tanks. I put the return into the vent on someones 2A it worked perfectly.

I have had problems with firefox 7, all the others worked flawlessly for me. I found every time the browser was loading a page it stopped responding for 10s or so, didn't say stopped responding just wouldn't do anything. I had a fool around and found unticking 'hardware acceleration' improved it[it still does it but only for a second or two]. untiking it didn't make a lot of sense but it worked, I was lead to try that as I can't start solidworks with certain graphics card profiles loaded, the solidworks one for instance;-) I also get it failing to load pages, mostly happens when your reloading half a dozen or more tabs[so it happens sometimes when firefox restores previous session, the network usage is zero and all the liccle green thingies spinningawaya; restart it seems the only solution, it's fine when restated. If you don't like acrobat try Sumatra, I tried several alternatives all worked fine, I like sumatra best of the ones I tried. I might try going back to an earlier flash, I hadn't considered that.

Might be to expensive, but hardcoated polycarbonate, Lexan or Makrolon, is the stuff for plastic windows.

I did a load of conversions in the 80's, forgoten most of it now. I have a Phillips adapter under my desk;-) I can't remember what I did for pilot bushes, I might have made an ali adapter to take a bush? Thats' what I usually do, I did that for a while with the Prima conversions but a few people had a problem with installing them so I made a bolt on adapter that held the bush, isn't there room for a similar adapter?

I replaced the small cylinder[expansion tank] in my airline recently and I couldn't get the valve out of the new cylinder, I chopped it off and drilled and tapped the remaining brass bit 3/8bsp. I think the tap was right hand thread, enough thread was visible so you could see.

Where do you get seals? I have 60mm id tube and 50mm rod. 1400psi into a 2.5 cylinder is going to be about 3 tons[roughly 5inches so 7,000lbs]. Jack ratings look quite wild, I had a 12 ton jack that needs 15,000 psi to achieve 18tons and a lot more pressure on the handle than likely.

If you mean the clips made from what looks like Piano wire I have a pair of snap-on pliers for them. It's basically[haven't looked at them in any detail for years] a pair of pliers with a groove in each jaw. They do work better than normal pliers, not better enough that I would buy them though.

I put a system in with galv pipe in the early 90's, it had been an assortment of nylon before that, the cost was amazingly cheap like under 30 quid; it's about 60 feet. I was given 5 lengths of copper tube and a handful of solder fittings, that was in November and it took me until last week to get round to it, I added a 50 foot extension to my air line. It took me a few hours as I don't rush and I had to make the new expansion cylinder. I guess it would have cost around £30 if I had my hand in my pocket. I used some push on tap connectors to connect the copper to copper in a few places with odd bends[they don't seem to do 22-1/2º bends]and I found 1/2bsp fits the male threads in 15mm compression fittings, so it was easy enough to connect copper to filters and galv pipe. Now my 36 year old regulator is constantly relieving, I can't see anything wrong with the 'valve' or seat?

Long time since I welded it, I used normal A15 rods, which is what most chassis builders use as far as I know. I think A18[ER70S-6] rods n wire are more or less the same price as A15s. Will be plenty online about welding 4130.

I used to change a lot of tyres, with tyre levers, it was quicker than going and getting them changed [and I am tight]. But it's actually not hard to make a manual tyre changer, last one I made was cobbled together to change my landy tyres, I can change tyres reasonably quick just with levers but faced with taking 9[two sets and a spare] tyres off and swapping them to other wheels I cobbled together a tyre changer, what can I say I am really lazy and would prefer to be cutting n welding metal to changing tyres. Look up manual tyre changers and see if you can find some pics. Mine goes on my engine crane, a mate made one and it was welded to his race car trailer. Suprised you had any problem getting people to change tyres, all the local services to me are happy to do it.

An angle grinder does straight line OK.

I have a few old ammeters, a Mini ammeter with wires and tags the size of the fuse legs is a good test tool, just wack it in the fuse holder and watch the ammeter when you switch the item your wondering about on. The Mini ammeters are ±30A.

Very useful tool. They are very simple and most people seemed to make their own, I did but then spotted one in a Krypton anylyser a mate was chucking away.