integerspin

I did a drawing for a V8=>series box adapter. But never cast one and verified it on a block, the old adapter I took my measurments off had a few pretty oval holes. I can't find it right now, I am sure i have seen it on the laptop, I will have a look on my old laptop. Found some jpg's so I now know the filename..

The CNXX inserts are 80 degree diamond[shape], the N is negative rake. The first letter indicates the shape. S; square R; round W; trigon;-) V; is a pointy diamond, I can probably remember them all but thats enough. Take a look at the sandvik site they have all the catalogues online. There are quite a few other makers, I think the sandvik catalog is the best you will find online. There is someone on this forum that works for Kenemetal. No idea what holders cost new, try barretts tools. They are up north somewhere and I have had really good sechonhand tooling at a fair[ish] price. The spring cut is like simon said. When you made the cut the tool was pushed down/away and when you moved the tool over the surface, that had been turned, the tool had 'sprung' back to it's original position so took another light cut. There are a few ways to get round this, either withdraw your tool at the end of the cut, or make the final cuts light enough to eliminate or nearly eliminate the sping cut. If your using hss it's not a problem to take thou or less off so you can creep up on the final size and make a light last cut, eliminating the spring cut. Carbide often leaves a pretty bad finish when you try and whip off that last thou. If you are newish to this work out surface speeds a few times to get some idea, the speeds quoted for carbide are very high, they quote a speed that gives max metal removal and a very short life. I just guess at the feed and speed. What I was thinking of with a circular saw blade was mounting it on my rear toolpost, which is bassically a big solid toolpost, I was thinking it would be fixed with a large bolt thru the centre hole into a block in the toolpost with some way to index it, so you could lock a tooth on the centreline and then turn it to use another tooth when that one was shagged. I haven't taken a good look at a saw blade so it may not be possible. Parting tool holders that take narrow hss blades are OK. I would have thought the cheapness of the toolholders doesn't matter a lot, I have a lot of home made toolholders which are just milled from whatever is at hand and they work great. As to quality of inserts you would have to ask a pro that uses lot'sof them, I have never found anything wrong with any but have never had anything but the well know brand names. If they are not to expensive buy the set you were on about, I woudl go for triangles. But you can't really be without some HSS.

We didn't have any problem removing it with chilled iron, the problem was we destroyed the sheet metal parts doing it. Try methylene chloride, you get it from chemical supply places, in 1989 it was about a tenner for 5 gallons. stick it in a tank/sink and put a few inches of water on top of it to prevent it evaporting. Great way to clean cylinder heads in. I think the powder coated stuff was left for 24 hours before being pressure washed.

Grit blasting removes it really easy. I used to do the blasting for a powder coaters and they usually removed coating with nitromors. They bought 5 gallon cans of methylene chloride[nitromors] and the parts were immersed in it for 24 hours or so and the powder washed off.

I would buy some hss, you often need form tools or just a very sharp tool. I never really worry what grindstone I use, but I tend to touch up hss on my valve lathe, which has a very hard fine stone. I always stone edges with a fine carbonudrum stone . Try and buy small blanks, I have quite a few 3/4 square bit's and it is a right waste of time and steel carving a tool out of them. Keep the speeds low with hss, I often switch to a hss tool to chamfer a corner and forget to drop the speed, eats hss. Carbide inserts are fantastic. I have always used them, but on my old lathe with 600rpm they gave a rough finish, when I got a lathe with a 2500 rpm spindle the finish is often like chrome. Getting enough speed can often be a problem. You will find cuts less then 20thou often leave pretty poor surface finish[depends on the insert]. I have rarely had the luxury of picking a grade I get whatever is cheap, I would guess the polished inserts for ali can be used on everything, I use them on en24 and they work really nicely. Get small nose radius inserts. I have a lot of CN tools[that's an 80 degree diamond] I use them for general turning and boring, I have a holder that uses the 'other' corner for facing so I manage to use all 8 corners of the CN inserts. I dug around in a quid box at a local place and took all the CN inserts, they mean't a quid an insert but I managed to pay a quid a box for them. Some of the inserts are really light, they are quite amazing, they chomp thru hardened steel! They also do strange things like the worpiece stays cool[ish] but the swarf comes off seriously hot. I do use other shapes but the majority of my tools take CNXX12 inserts. You can braze old chipped inserts into steel blanks and sharpen as you would a chunk of hss. It would be well worth your while making a quick change toolpost if you don't have one. I had never used one but my CVA came with a tripan toolpost. it'a simple enough thing and I wouldn't be without one now. Somthing I keep meaning to try is a circular saw blade for a parting tool?

If your desperate and you can find some bigger O rings it's not hard to chop them down and glue them back together. Viton O rings are ok with any old superglue but some of the plasticky rings don't want to stick together.

have to be another vote for Moprod.

Less than £20, I paid £16.5 less.

I think they are 11/16 - 16 constant pitch series, called something like UNS or UNR.

So who is that then, I might be up for another lathe or a Fobco 10/8. I spotted some floor and need to obliterate it. I did ask on one of the inverter threads a few questions, no one replied. I am going to be buying one[an inverter] in a month or two. I wondered if many use feedback signals? I would really like to be able to stop the spindle in the same place every time for the toolchanger, no plans on refitting that right now though. I still have the original inverter but it's the size of a fridge and has a massive heatsink on the back, so I guess it's not very efficient, it's was made in 1985.

I would look for a Beaver with box ways if I was to get another turret, much nicer machines than bridgeports. 40int is a probably the best spindle if you have a choice[well 50 would be good but 40 tooling is more common], a longer draw bar and you can use BT40 tooling[plenty of that about]. I have never seen power Y or knee on a bridgport that wasn't added on, I think the big beaver had power on all ways. The power feed is either the little electric motor that hangs on the leadscrew or the big heavy gearbox, I have the big heavy gearbox and before I got it was told 'but it only has 9 speeds', never been a problem. There are some nice big clones, I looked in a stealers at a really perfect jap clone, it was priced pretty much as the bridgeports but it looked a lot more solid and better finished. One of the tiawanese things I looked at was three years old and looked completely donald ducked. I think your going to find they are nearly all 3phase stock. Which isn't a problem these days. I think almost all turrets take a broaching head? My Ajax is all wired up, just need the head and ability to rotate the turret[mill is stuck in a corner]. There is a nice video of a lovejoy coupling being on utubeit doesn't show the head but I am sure if you look on google youcan find a pic. I looked at a really toattly knacked bridgport in st Albans when I was looking for a mill. he had 6 of them and they all came with broaching heads. I know someone who bought one of them, the mill was scrapped and the broaching head flogged, so I guess they aren't cheap. I wouldn't say no to one;-) No DRO, you poor sod. I was without a DRO for a month or so, I didn't realise how important it was till then.

$500!!!! THIS fellah was a better price. I would have bought it if I had seen it, I have one but didn't get any of the anvils with it and have to make themas I need them. There is usually one on ebay.

If you are after a circuit look up air fuel meter diy efi. There was a circuit posted in 1995. I found the 1995 emails but I can't find it. I built it and tried it on a bike, it worked pretty well.

Whys that one got that cross member and the funny bits around the wheel arches? They look better stock;-)

I have had pistons from Arias, Venolia and childs and alberts. There are plenty more companies to try, JE, Ross, Wisco, Cosworth andonandonandon. When I bought them the companies were great to deal with, as all yank engine part companies seem to be. They ask lots of questions and make suggestions on your 'good ideas';-) I was well pleased with the pistons and suprisingly enough the Arias ones were actually around the same cost as factory replacements!

The cheapest silicon hoses were from Hong Kong. They seem fine, I use 4 of the short silicon[51mm] joiners and aluminium pipes.

passivation is usuall done on zinc plate, I say usally as it's onnly done on plate as far as I knowbut someone is bound to know better than me. Look under the bonnet of a car, see the gold nuts and bolts, or sometimes black or olive green. Generaly all the steel bits that aren't painted[unless it's a roller, I think they had some plated and passivated prior to painting]are plated and passivated. You can anodise Titanium as well as ali, handy to know when you have a landy.

30 years old is fairly new;-) I bought my startrite in 1979. I would guess it was 20-30 years old at the time, cost me a tenner I suspect I will get my money back;-) I sold my Denbigh bench drill to someone at the time I got the pillar drill and we had the they don't make them like that anymore conversation, he had been to look at drills in Messengers in guildford then he came to see my old denbigh, which was silent and smooth. I worked in BVC, drilling holes with an archdale radial, in the 70's, nice drill but it would take up to much space for me. I have used a mates fobco 10-8, nicest drill I have used. lovely large table. not to big. only problem is stealers ask from 500quid to a grand for the things.

There are loads of places round with waterjet. I get asked by the bloke in parkers quite often if I want anything cut out. I did get a quote on a load of 4inch thick ali parts from place in kent, very resonable price, I take it they had a sheet of 4inch to chop the parts from. Their price, including the metal, was only a few bob more than the price of buying enough bar to chop the parts from. I don't remember the name but they came up on a search for waterjets in kent, sussex and surrey and they had some sort of bike connection I think they either raced a bike or sponsored one.

Get yourself a nice Fobco, you won't get a lot better. But it will still drill triangular holes. you get a hole with one more side than the number of flutes, so to drill square holes you use a three flute drill and so on. Generally it only happens, unless your drilling polygon holes, on thinish metal. If your drilling sheet you should use sheet metal drills they drill much better[rounder] and as you get them split pointed and double ended they work out pretty cheap.

I think morris changed from bsf to unf around 1950, I rebuilt a 1948 morris oxford and it was bsf and I used to repair a 1953 moggy and it was UNF.

PCBs are fairly simple to make. I am carp at electonics but can knock up a pcb.

I used to turn an alloy adapter and press a stock bush in, I think, long time since I did one. I do however do prima conversions. Chop the end of the crank off with an angle grinder was recomended, I made two alternatives this. An aloy adapter which fitted in the crank, could have gone in the flywheel, or a steel adapter that goes under the flywheel bolts. If you have acess to a lathe it's simple enough to make. I was making them from billet but the last few I fabricated from sheet and a small steel bush, they take the original landy bush. This is a simple steel adapter, on a prima engine,it is retained by flywheel bolts:

You found it there cos mustangs, and a lot of other yank cars came with lap belt's.

not sure if I got what you want. Sounds like you want a hose with 1/4bsp fitting one end to go on the 1/4 bsp thread on your tyre gun. You then want an adapter of the right thread[maybe 1/4bsp] on the other end of the hose screwed into your compressor. Usually you have quick disconnect fittings on the ends of the hose and appropiate fittings on tyre gun and compressor.