paintman

If the stat sticks shut the car will overheat. If it sticks open it will overcool. I spent a very unpleasant 100 mile journey in the middle of winter many years ago in my rrc with a stuck open stat!

Wash the wheel with warm soapy water and a sponge. The dirt on the wheel is a build up of all the deposits your hands and the hands of everybody else who has driven it have left there by steering the vehicle. Gets sticky in damp weather Same build up occurs on leather covered wheels which are best cleaned with a leather cleaner as the warm soapy water dries them out. Do not do this on an early Series LR as the wheel needs refinishing when this happens to it as the material of the wheel itself is breaking down.

Yellow Pages under 'camping and outdoor equipment'? Or even yell.com.

Ah yes, but the manual has pictures of the parts and their names. Could save you a lot of time waiting for someone to look at a pic on the web! Although we all need help from time to time so please don't think I'm having a go

Always be very wary of crossing flowing water. Many people have little idea of just how powerful it can be, cars don't usually do very well as boats and if you get stuck & have to get out into the water you may find yourself unable to keep your footing.

If you have flattened the battery and/or do a lot of short journeys esp at this time of year when you will be using all the toys it is important to recharge the battery using a battery charger. The drain on the battery will be large & the alternator is intended to keep it topped up, not to fully recharge & repeatedly asking it to do that will shorten the alternators life. That's not just my opinion. That's from AC Delco who make the things. I put ours on charge around once a month (my battery charger - Gunson Gold 4138 - indicates when fully charged) to avoid any low battery problems.

The grey thing you have labelled as flame trap is referred to in the LR manual as 'Engine flametrap - fuel injection models'. The flashback arestor (backfire valve) is correctly indicated. Look to the left of your arrow & the join betwen that & the plenum is where to run sealant. So you are on the right track! (Just think how much embarassment a factory manual could save you )

Flashback arrester (aka backfire valve) is the ally thing with the orange elastic band round it on the plenum. It has a flap inside it which shuts if a backfire occurs & pressure should be vented through holes which are covered by the band. The 'gas ring' is the ally thing next to it that the LPG pipe goes to.

I also have to do the annual 'remove screw cover in the middle of the pump & turn with a screwdriver' trick on the pump. It then works fine. Until the start of the following winter! Once you have removed the screw cover you will see a slot in the end of the shaft. Turn the system on & it should spin round. If it does then the pump is OK. If it doesn't, turn with a screwdriver. If that doesn't work then tap the pump. If that doesn't work then, after checking that the system was turned on & power is going to the pump, the pump is probably history. BUT. If the water is heating OK & you are not heating the water overnight with an immersion heater then it suggests that the gate valve is the likely culprit.

I also see you have a flashback arrestor on the entry to the plenum. Looks like the same sort as I have on mine. You would be well advised to run a bead of sealant - or RTV instant gasket - around the outside of the joint as it will almost certainly be letting air in which will also upset the idle. Same goes for the gas ring joins. Any airleaks which occur after the airflow meter are bad news.

The pipe is the engine breather & the grey tower on the o/s rocker cover has wire mesh inside as a filter. Usually clog up with oily cr8p. Remove (unscrews)wash out in petrol & allow to dry. Do NOT dry with high pressure air. Where the other end of it enters the plenum it turns 90deg to the o/s then 90deg to the rear, then into the plenum near the butterfly. Frequently blocks up solid with cr8p (which causes the crankcase to pressurise & oil to leak out of all sorts of places) which can sometimes be cleared with carb cleaner or similar. To do this remove the trap to plenum pipe, remove the pipe from the AFM to the plenum, prop the butterfly open, push a clean lintfree cloth into the plenum to catch the stuff that flushes out & spray. On mine the passageways were blocked solid & I had to pull out the metal pipe the breather pipe goes onto (interference fit) & use a twistdrill between my fingers to clear the blockage before flushing. If you have an air leak on this pipe then that can upset the idle.

Vast amounts of info at http://carbibles.com/tyre_bible.html page 2 also has a calculator for the effect on indicated speed of changing tyre size.

You say a 'cling' noise. Where does this sound like it is coming from? If it is towards the front of the box/back of the engine then it could be a cracked flexi plate (the plate that connects the flywheel to the torque converter). A clonk from the back of the box is indeed likely to be wear in the gearbox to transfer box output shaft. The good news with the ZF auto box is that this is a stub that fits onto the gearbox & is £30 (FTC5090 in 'Miscellaneous') from http://ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk as opposed to the manual gearboxes which require a strip to replace the mainshaft! Remove the round plate on the back of the transfer box (I'm assuming it is an LT230 ?)& check the splines. You will of course also need a new transfer box gear (input gear in the same section) Changing range could be lack of lubrication in the linkages. Many are never put into low box & are often seized solid. Worth selecting on a regular basis to keep everything moving so when you DO need it you can select it. Can also be due to tickover too high. You may find it helps to select a gear in the main box, put it back into neutral & then try the transfer range change again. Certainly works with mine. LR suggest engaging Park, applying the brakes, then whilst maintaining pressure on the Transfer box lever in the direction required move the main gearbox selector rapidly back & forth between Park and Reverse until the gear engages.

And for the same reason do NOT put any form of oil or grease on the mating surfaces.

And be sure to get the Technical Data sheets for the paint when you buy it. They have all the info you need incl gun pressures, amount of thinners, amount of hardener (if required), drying times etc etc. Surface prep is everything. The finished item will be a reflection of how good the prep work was.

Nice looking job there Les.

Before shopping for air tools you must find out what air delivery your compressor is capable of. You need to pick a spray gun thats air requirement is compatible with the air delivery capability of your compressor. By that I mean one that requires less air than the compressor can put out so you won't have to keep stopping to let the compressor tank refill or you will have lots of extra problems. Once you know this, then you can enter the maze of guns. I do SMART repair profesionally (bumper scuffs etc) and use a SATA Minijet HVLP gravity fed gun with 1.0 air cap. The compressor has a 50litre tank, is 2HP and will run the gun quite happily continuously. The same compressor does not deliver enough air to run a sander. It will power an air wrench, but you have to stop from time to time to let it catch up as it uses a LOT of air. To do large areas you really need a bigger gun - which means a bigger compressor.

Here is the legislation. I take it the fireman explained to the cashier? http://hse.gov.uk/lau/lacs/65-9.htm

Putting non-genuine caps & rotors into the V8 is asking for trouble. Ask 'cruiser' on the LRO forum. A pattern rotor arm finished up costing him £600 trying to find a mysterious running fault. The pattern rotor was not considered as it was new. And it was the problem. Anyway, I thought you had got & fitted the correct parts in Part 1 of your troubles?

I take it you've had the link to http://rangerovers.net There is a good section in 'Problems and Fixes' .

Land Rover were notorious for not putting paint codes on vehicles, even though there was a perfectly good space on the plate for the paint code! I usually ring a franchised dealer on vehicles where the paint codes are damaged or missing. The parts dept usually check it on their database which gives the cars original build details. Unfortunately on some older cars they have dropped off the database so it is really a Motor Factor job to check it against the paint swatches. The other problem is that there a variant shades of most colours by which I mean that as paint batches changed in the factory there will be slight variations in the colour of new vehicles. As an example, Transit vans which are Diamond White have 9 variant shades that I know about! Mazda don't bother putting codes on theirs now either.

There are two sensors on the top. One behind the other. The front one is easy to get at. The back one isn't. Guess which one you have to remove? (For those that are not familiar with Land Rover design it is NOT the easy one )

EFi distributors don't have condensors.

You could try a magneto repair specialist such as http://magnetorepairs.com but I suspect it will cost a LOT more than the £1 !!

Well done!