paintman

They do indeed. You don't need to remove the decker, a couple of fasteners are awkward to get at but it can be done. After you have removed the bumper corner caps & the indicator/sidelight unit & disconnected the indicator side repeater. Remove the bolts that hold the decker panel to the wing noting any nylon spacers fitted. Remove the 2 crosshead screws (with plain washers) from the bottom of the side light aperture. Remove the 5 nuts & bolts (with plain and spring washers) securing the top edge of the wing to the wheel arch & valance assembly. Remove the 2 bolts (with plain washers) securing the sill finishing strip (the plastic bit) to the bottom of the wing. Remove the 2 crosshead screws securing the wing to the mounting bracket attached to the 'A' post located in between the 2 front door hinges. If a front spoiler is fitted there is a single bolt holding it to the front of the wheel arch. Have a careful look to ensure nothing missed before pulling the wing off!

SKF have just done an article in a trade mag on CV joints. "Wear and partial seizure are the most common causes of failure. Wear in the outer joint is identified as a vibration at certain speeds and is most audible when the vehicle is driven through tight left-hand and right-hand circles at low speed. Worn joints make a rhythmic clicking or cracking sound. Partial seizure is often caused by the joint overheating after the outer joint boot has split, resulting in a loss of grease causing a 'pattering' sensation through the suspension" Obviously we don't have joint boots, but all the lube can still escape if the seals have failed which will also allow water in.

Whilst not being able to help with what box will fit, I had this happen on a Granada 5-speed box when the layshaft bearings collapsed, and again on the same car when the replacement box (off a scrapper)demolished the input shaft bearing which did the gear teeth to the layshaft. 4th as said is direct drive through the box.

Some pads do have that. And some have shims which may or may not be rubberised. The purpose is to stop pads squealing.

To do the A frame joint you only need to remove the bit it sits in.

Thanks Les

http://www.acorn-ind.co.uk/products/prspeedi.htm And to see one being fitted http://www.ado13.com/ss/speedisleeveinstallation.htm

To assist in replacing a gearbox get a length of threaded rod (someone help with the thread size, I've forgotten again!) from B&Q and make two long studs. Screw these into the back of the engine & engage two of the gearbox bellhousing bolt holes on them. Makes lining things up easy & reduces the risk of the sideways slip.

Harsh upshifts. Check main line pressure. If high then likely fault is seized primary regulator. Tests are also given for harsh upshift 1 to 2 and 2 to 3, if high pressure then primary regulator. If normal presure then faults likely in the various clutch, clutch brakes, clutch brake dampers or modulator valve.

If it is the usual cloth detached itself from the backing problem (looks like the inside of a tent!) Either replace the complete thing (I have a Nationwide Trim one in mine http://www.nationwidetrim.demon.co.uk OR you could try scraping all the foamy stuff off & regluing the cloth to the backing.

Hooray! Nice to know when a problem is resolved.

Noseweight is the measure of down force exerted by a trailer on the towball/hook of the vehicle it is fitted to. Too much or too little will affect the handling of the towing vehicle. The vehicle manufacturer will usually specify the appropriate amount for the vehicle. The vehicle manufacturer will usually also specify the max weight that the vehicle can tow - which may be well below the various maximum legal weights as regards braked/unbraked trailers. This has nothing to do with what the towball assembly is actually capable of pulling before something bends or breaks - as borne out by some of the examples given above!

If you read the post before yours you will note that the poster claims the same prob was caused on his by a duff propshaft UJ. In your post you say the front prop is now off due to a duff UJ & the noise has stopped........ You say the mystery deepens????? How about trying a propshaft with good UJ's - even new ones on yours

How old is the fuel and have you tried replacing with fresh petrol? Might sound strange but petrol will deteriorate to the point where the car won't run. Something to bear in mind for those of us on LPG! Also flagged up on http://go-lpg.co.uk/hints.html

Use a lever between the mounting point on the axle & the ball joint carrier. Should be little or no movement. Usually when they clunk there's lots. Carrier needs to be removed from the vehicle & you would be well advised (having done one on my RRC which came out with a LOT of hammering & pulled the new one in with threaded rod & nuts) to nip it down to the local garage/engineering works & get them to press the old one out & the new one in. They are VERY VERY tight & need to be lined up for the retaining bolts. You cannot 'just twist it a bit' if the bolt holes don't line up. If you do a search I think you will find posts on this subject!

If the temp gauge is reading very low then assuming the coolant is at the correct level it is most likely your thermostat is either missing altogether - as in someone has taken it out, which could be to mask an overheating problem - or has failed in an open or partially open condition. The car will overcool as a result. I had a very cold 100 mile trip in my RRC some years ago due to a stuck open stat. If RRC the manual (MY 1986 to 1989)for mine shows the heater inlet being the top of the two at the bulkhead.

And its easily understandable

Use cable ties in a figure 8 round the fuel pipe along its route from the tank to the engine & whatever you are fastening it to (usually the chassis) if the plastic securing clips are broken & you can't get at them. That was from an MoT tester years ago & I have never had a problem with a pipe so fastened.

Various shapes of tank on http://lpg-kits.com Beware of people trying to sell you emulators for RRC & early Disco. On systems that don't have managed ignition systems they are not needed.

You might give the very helpful http://ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk a ring & see what they can suggest.

Interesting. I fitted a Valeo to eldest son's Pug 306 a while ago & am seriously thinking of removing & replacing as it is very fierce & nothing like the feel of our two other 306's

A Land Rover without oil leaks Heresy!

And some of the small bolts on alternators aren't in whole mm, they have to go one better & be something and a half mm! (Can't remember the exact size) As I found when I had to go & buy one to swap a regulator on an A127.

You might indeed get away with just the longer shaft, but while you've got it in bits.....

If it ran fine for 15 mins its just lulling you into a false sense of security so you take it for a long drive. At which point it will probably bite you in the a--! Interesting that it started behaving itself with the correct rotor & cap. Bears out everything said here & on other forums.