paintman

It's a nice idea, but lots of stuff that you are never likely to use - eg the 1/4 & 3/8 drive stuff. I have a FEW items of that, but they were bought as required - I have a couple of dealers within 10 mins so picking it up (or having them deliver it free) has never been an issue. The bulk of my kit has been bought piecemeal & is Facom. Follow the advice given above & you won't go far wrong. Wall drive sockets are very good & apart from one or two jobs that need bi-hex (some LR brake caliper bolts for example) they and hex sockets are the way to go. I have a small set of metrinch combination spanners & they get used a LOT! If you have a good used tool dealer near you then you can usually pick stuff up for a song & that includes all the big makes.

Just had a look at my RRC & the word TUBELESS is between the rim size & the number NTC2688. You have the rim size & the number NRC7900 with nothing between the two.

http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible_pg2.html scroll about quarter of the way down for a calculator.

Carbs or EFi?

I wonder if the throttle potentiometer is faulty & not sending the 'foot down' signal to the ECU? Is the vacuum advance working?

Does the misfire only appear on sudden large throttle movements? Is it present on gentle/normal driving?

Be sure the rotor & cap are genuine LR parts, get from franchised dealer to be safe. Pattern ones can be worse than useless.

We did tell you it was just lulling you into a false sense of security

You're trying to break it again????? The system is supposed to pressurise as the water heats up. It expands. The pressure will drop away as it cools down again. Time to worry is when you either have an unexplained water loss or it starts throwing lots water out of the pressure cap on a regular basis - the latter assumes you haven't overfilled it, in which case consider that the system is giving you a bollocking & chucking out the excess Conventional expansion tank/radiator caps are marked with the pressure that they will vent at (my RRC is 15psi). They should be regarded as a service item. If faulty (not sealing or spring weak) symptoms are coolant loss and/or overheating. If in doubt - and as yours is making a noise - replace, they are cheap.

You quite often see one of their vans parked at the side of the road in Leicester with a window in the back door open & a highway robbery device camera pointing up the road. I'm sure lots of people would be more than happy for you to go & 'borrow' the camera.

Try driving in circles (left and right handed) on full lock. A worn CV joint will often click more & give itself away.

I drive a Land Rover. When do I stop worrying that it might break down? When you're a member of a good recovery service!!

Try the LRO website. 'Hippo' has a camera set up in his so he could be a good person to ask.

Not a problem with the exhaust? Leaking manifold gaskets, small holes & loose baffles in the front box can all make strange noises. To further check the brakes, try CAREFUL left foot braking whilst the car is making the noise & see if the noise stops.

The catalogued ones for that MY (up to FA) are PRC1986 which are the pin-type. 1990 (GA on) on are PRC6826 but I don't know if they'll fit.

Backfiring on LPG is often caused by a weak mixture which in turn can be caused by airleaks on the induction side. Can also be caused by improper switching over. Have a look through http://www.go-lpg.co.uk/hints.html http://www.wtv-uk.co.uk show the elastic band type backfire valve on their site, so they may be able to help

I had an A127 go like that on the RRC. Lasted for ages until it finally went at which time the charge light was bright all the time. Not sure which part of it was faulty as an exchange recon with 12mths warranty only cost me £30 so not worth my time messing about. If you have a reconditioner near you it may be easier to get it rebuilt when it dies.

machine mart one as well! Which looks the same thing as the one in the blue box which is also marketed under the Sealey name. You will find that most of the smaller ones are usually described as suitable for copper, brass and thin walled aluminium pipe. The one shown in the link above above only refers to copper pipe in its ads.

Had a Ford Escort with bent input shaft. That did have vibration - but not excessive and none in 4th which on that box was effectively straight through the gearbox. A Granada came in with major vibration in all gears apart from 4th. When dismantled the input shaft bearing had disintegrated. The shaft gear was in a right state, as was the laygear! The owner said that the box had been a little noisy for some time, but the vibration had only recently started. And the symptoms given in his post are vibration and difficulty in engaging gears.

Trade customer of mine uses boiling water from the kettle to get signwriting off vans. I prefer a hot air paint stripper - be careful not to overheat the paint!

If its any consolation the early EFI Classics don't have the hole in the boot floor so they're a tank off job too!

Well done! Always nice to hear a problem has been solved

Are you absolutely certain the transmission is not locked up? You could give http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk a ring & pick their brain. If it is going through clutches at that rate & there is difficulty engaging gears it suggests the input shaft is running out of true which could be down to Excessive wear in the input shaft bearing, Bent input shaft (usually caused by poor removal/fitting allowing the weight of the box or engine to 'hang' on the shaft & one of the reasons why I always use long removable studs to align gearboxes & engines), Damaged spigot bush (at the rear of the engine that the nose of the input shaft is supported by). If the input shaft is running out of true it will affect its relationship with the layshaft gear and the front of the gearbox mainshaft.

I take it you mean the gearbox input shaft? A small amount should not be a problem. If it has a lot then the input shaft bearing may be on its way out. This may also affect the bush in the rear of the input shaft in which the nose of the mainshaft sits. And the relationship of the input shaft gear to the layshaft gear. Don't forget that the nose of the input shaft goes into the spigot bush after passing through the clutch driven plate so it isn't just free to flop around!

Yes, leads can go faulty at any time. Follow the lead from a plug. Coil pack at the other end. NGK plugs are recommended for LPG cars. You could always try a new plug, swapping it one at a time with those fitted to see if it makes a difference if you feel so inclined! Don't be tempted to try the multi-contact plugs if the oe spec for the vehicle is single contact - that info from NGK. Have a look through the info given at http://www.go-lpg.co.uk/hints.html