paintman

You might find this link of interest. It comments on the low speed ticking problem with this type of lifter. http://patentstorm.us/patents/7131411-description.html

'it tries to spin the motor its just very slow' Try a new battery! Or at least fully charge your old one and check all leads as said earlier. Do not expect the alternator to recharge a flat battery. It is not intended for that purpose & frequent calls for it to do so are likely to result in you needing a new one. That is not just my opinion but that of the manufacturers. As the weather starts to get colder dying batteries will be shown up. Very common issue at this time of year

You could ask these http://lap-tab.co.uk

Always amuses me to see a dolly go for a flight on the various forums. The posters on these forums are doing it out of the kindness of their hearts and are not getting paid to do it. Ok so sometimes they get it wrong, but usually the info - esp les's with the photos - is top quality. And some of those asking questions on the forums have no idea what they've got on their cars or don't put any info in about the car itself. You COULD of course always go and BUY a factory workshop manual for your vehicle...............

And don't forget that the new pads will take a couple of hundred miles to bed in to the discs which in itself will make the pedal less firm than it was before.

More info please. If the service is that bad why haven't you just cancelled the policies immediately & moved now?

Have a look at the FAQ section of http://ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk I wonder if you have low fluid level or the filter screen is partially blocked? Many auto box faults can be solved by draining & replacing the fluid and the gearbox filter. Don't know about clearing fault codes though. BUT Ashcroft also make the comment that changing them can cause problems. In your case you have little to lose.

http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk and click on Viscous Couplings in the menu on the left, then click on Range Rover vc.

My own boat trailer is also twin axle (Indespension units) & the choice is either to use bearing saver devices as already said, or to strip, clean and regrease the bearings after each immersion. The latter is tedious, takes me about 3/4 of an hour to do all four, but ensures the bearings have a long life (last replaced 3 years ago) as salt water left inside will damage them in very short order. On mine the seal on the inner bearing is part of the bearing. I do wonder whether sealed shielded bearings would be the best option, but these are only AFAIK available for ball bearings on the mini wheel type suspension units & not the usual taper rollers on the heavier braked trailers. I think the stern tube grease you are thinking of is Duckhams Keenol which I believe is no longer available, but RAMONOL is advertised on the web including http://tnorrismarine.co.uk/offers.php. Don't know whether that is suitable for wheel bearings. Any water that does get into the hub will damage the bearings regardless of what type of grease is in there. There are some comments on http://homepages.rya-online.net/trail-sail/safety.html

According to the Tfl handbook (with a happy smiley picture of the Fuhrer inside the front page) that dropped through my letterbox today (I live in Leicester & can't remember the last time I went to London, never mind drove there): Heavier lorries Heavy diesel engined vehicles exceeding 12 tonnes GVW incl goods vehicles, motor caravans, motorised horseboxes & other specialised vehicles. Charge comes into force Feb 2008 & will apply to all vehicles that do not comply with Euro III. Vehicles first reg as new on or after 1 Oct 2001 are assumed to comply with Euro III. For these vehicles EuroIV regs will apply from Jan 2012 and vehicles registered as new on or after 1 Oct 2006 are assumed to comply with EuroIV. Lighter lorries Heavy diesel engined vehicles between 3.5 and 12 tonnes GVW incl goods vehicles, motor caravans, horseboxes & other specialised vehicles. Comes into force July 2008 then changes as above Buses and coaches Diesel engined passenger vehicles with more than 8 seats, plus the drivers seat, exceeding 5 tonnes GVW. Comes into force Jan 2012 as EuroIV Large vans Diesel engined vehicles between 1.205 tonnes unladen and 3.5 tonnes GVW and motor caravans and ambulances between 2.5 tonnes and 3.5 tonnes GVW. Comes into force Oct 2010. Vehicles registered as new on or after 1 Jan 2002 are assumed to be Euro III so will meet the LEZ standard Minibuses Diesel engined passenger vehicles with more than 8 seats, plus the drivers seat, below 5 tonnes GVW. All details as at Large vans Area shown in the book is pretty much the area inside the M25. It does not apply to cars, motorcycles or small vans (under 1.205 tonnes unladen weight) In the preamble it says 'The Low Emission Zone will affect older diesel engined lorries, buses, coaches, large vans (exceeding 1.205 tonnes unladen weight) and minibuses (over 8 seats and below 5 tonnes). It will also include other specialist vehicles that are derived from lorries and vans including: motorised horseboxes; breakdown and recovery vehicles; refuse collection vehicles; gritters; road sweepers; concrete mixers; tippers; removals lorries; fire engines; extended-cab dual purpose pickups (those with two rows of seats) and some Land Rovers. Motor caravans, abulances and large hearses (over 2.5 tonnes) are also included.' To check if your vehicle is exempt you should go to the 'vehicle compliance checker' at tfl.gov.uk/lezlondon or call 0845 607 0009 There are also various comments about how to get older vehicles to comply which basically involve throwing money at them to fit filters etc which you can look up for yourselves!!!! Or just get something with a petrol engine & LPG it.

For (practically) everything you ever wanted to know about tyres but were afraid to ask www.chris-longhurst.com/carbibles/tyre_bible.html will keep you amused for ages.

Vehicle should be tested on the fuel it is running on when presented. If the testing station refuse to test it on LPG or insist on switching it to petrol and it fails you should complain to VoSA. All info is in www.motuk.co.uk/manual/contents.html

If in the opinion of the tester the noise is excessive he can fail it. www.motuk.com/mot_manual/6-3.asp#14

Ahhhh an aerosol Think we thought you'd had a tin - as in take the lid off, stir & pour out into spraygun!

If the paint you were supplied has been on a shelf for some time the tints will have settled to the bottom. The colour element & metallic/pearls - the tints - settle to the bottom & you will see a clear liquid. This is the 'binders' and will make up a large proportion of the can contents. I assume of course that you HAVE tried stirring the contents? Although the supplier might have cocked up

You appear to have ruled out a faulty module. Are there any breaks in the wiring & the moving about temporarily closes the break? Are the rotor arm and dizzy cap Genuine parts (aftermarket ones on the V8 simply will not do and are the cause of many difficult to trace faults including earthing through the rotor) and in good condition?

To see where the spring goes on a seal go to www.scooterhelp.com/tips/engine/lam.drive.seal.html In the second pic you will see a seal & the chap's thumbnail is indicating the spring. Without the spring in place the seal is likely not to!

IIRC genuine Ford pads used to have an abrasive coating to help clear any glaze or high spots when used with old discs. As to whether it works or not I have no idea. Is it possible that the discs are running out of true & the squeal is a result? If you have access to a dial gauge might be worth a look. It is also possible to improve disc runout by moving it to a different position on the hub. I assume that you thoroughly cleaned the mating surfaces & DIDN'T put any sort of lube on the mating surfaces? If the pads with the stripe don't squeal I'd be inclined to cut your losses - and embarassment when evrybosy looks to see what's making the noise - and fit them instead!

I have a SS large bore on mine with tubular manifolds. Fitted in 1998. Amongst other issues, most of which involved the atrocious fit, the joint of the 'y' pipe to front silencer inlet pipe (an olive type joint) rusted through in 2006. I have welded it up.

www.rangerovers.net then click on the 'Problems and fixes'. Lots of info on air suspension in there with pics!

Think thats also given in the air suspension section in 'Problems and fixes' on www.rangerovers.net

Either back to stock rotors or try another make of pad if you want to stay with those rotors. Or fit the shims and use a little antisqueal lube on the pad backs.

Bought a cheapie from Homebase when my old Black & Decker finally expired. The cheapie lasted for about 20 minutes before putting out clouds of smoke. Took it back & got the Bosch one that in a plastic box. In the box were lots of discs including two diamond stone cutting discs. Reckon the Bosch with all the bits is actually better value than the cheapie! Works fine too.

If it doesn't run properly on petrol but is fine on LPG then the problem is not going to be in the ignition system but is likely to be in the petrol delivery control system. Have you thoroughly checked that all connections are in good order and none of them are loose? try wiggling them whilst the engine is running on petrol to see if anything odd happens.

Yes you can. Go to ashcroft transmissions web site & click on viscous couplings. Installation instructions are at the bottom. Or you could just click on the clicky link I have posted on another forum where you have asked the Q