paintman

And if you have a look in the 'refinishing' header it will link you via Aqua-T to the 'Product information sheet' which tells you what you need to know about application of that lacquer (& their other materials) Did you ask the suppler for the sheets? FWIW I use Max Meyer 2k lacquer, don't thin, use 2:1 ratio lacquer to hardener & apply as 2 full coats (Sata Minijet gravity feed SMART repair gun 1.0 fluid tip & 25psi at the gun) with 10 mins flash-off between the coats followed by Infra red bake for 25 mins, cool for 10 mins then de-nib as necessary, compound & polish. The defects link I posted will show you most common mistakes, how to avoid them & how to put them right!

You will find the answer to many problems in the 'Paint Defects' section of http://corporateportal.ppg.com/refinish/maxmeyer/england Did you get the Tech Data sheets from your paint supplier? Tells you everything you need to know about the paint you are using including air pressure, thinning, gun fluid tip size etc. Silver can be an absolute pig. I do this professionally (SMART repair, I no longer get involved with resprays) and whilst I applaud your wish to do it yourself I would suggest you get the painting done professionally. it will sav you a lot of frustration & wasted materials. Metallics & pearls are normally applied as a base coat (the colour) with a clear lacquer over the top which is what gives you the shine, so there are twice as many chances of it going wrong.

Dropping the box is not overly difficult - and I'll second the awkward bolts at the top!!! The main thing is that with the transfer box attached it is a big heavy item and you would be well advised to either use a transmission jack or make up the carrier which you will find in the manuals together with a decent trolley jack. Don't forget to undo the four bolts that hold the flex-plate to the torque converter or the TC will be pulled off the gearbox. Don't let the TC slip off the box if you remove it properly as a LOT of fluid remains in it!!!

Sounds like a later version, the early Haynes went into much more detail even down to gearbox rebuilds. The ISBN number in mine is 1 85010 405 0.

My haynes has a pic of the 35DM8 in Chapter 13 Supplement page 244 & its a straight lift from the Factory manual. With the exception of the amplifier they are effectively the same The only pics I can find of dizzy weights are in the same haynes on page 85 Fig 4.3 Item 21. Just gives you an idea what you are looking for. Have the links worked?

The early EFi do not have the multivent tank (mine doesn't & is a 1986 EFi). Be sure to check what is actually on your car before ordering a replacement.

Didn't you ask this a little while ago? What have the suppliers - or better yet the manufacturers - had to say about it?

The file does take a while to load as there is a lot of it so you may have to wait. I've just re-checked it & it comes up fine, albeit a little slow. If the link doesn't work type it in as www.4x4uk.org/faq/attached/Def_90_110_WSM_book5.pdf Look at your picture 3rd from top. The one without the rotor in place. As your eye travels down from the top of the shaft you come to what looks like a washer with two little lumps. Each lump has a hole. This is a circlip. You use one of the tools (Circlip pliers) in your second lot of pics. You need one of them that when you squeeze the handles together the points on the end move apart. Put the points into the little holes & squeeze the handles together until you can lift the circlip up the shaft. Now remove the washer that is under the circlip. Next the rubber 'O' ring. Now use the thin bladed screwdriver to lever the reluctor (star thing which is in one piece. If it comes of in more than one bit you have broken it. They are pretty tough so that would be an achievement!!!!) Don't forget to press down on the top of the shaft while doing this. The little plastic thing under this is the coupler. If yours is a 35DLM8 with the amp on the side of the dizzy then remove it. If it is 35DM8 & under the coil then you don't need to. Undo the fasteners that hold the baseplate down. There are three of them. They have a screwdriver slot in the top and are threaded. The screws that hold the clear plastic flash cover go into the top of them. Lift & remove the baseplate assembly. Weights & springs are now in view. Unfortunately, as I said earlier, I cannot find any pics of them so you will have to experiment a little but it should be fairly obvious. I do think that you need to invest in a manual of some sort. Even the Haynes manual.

From the manual with slight mods. Surround item with cloth to prevent loss of parts. Use circlip pliers to remove the circlip retaining the reluctor on the shaft Remove the flat washer & then the 'O' ring. Insert the blade of a small screwdriver beneath the reluctor & prise up until you can remove with your fingers (press down on the rotor shaft whilst doing this) There is a plastic coupler under the reluctor & the reluctor, the shaft and this coupling ring 'key' together. Check this is not broken. Unscrew the 3 pillars that hold the baseplate down (the ones that the flash shield screws go into - DO NOT disturb the two on top of the pick up or you will have to reset the airgap on reassembly. Not difficult but an unnecessary operation) Remove the base plate & pickup assembly. Springs & weights are under this & it should be obvious what goes where (unfortunately I don't have photos) Make sure everything is clean & unseized Lubricate the pivot points. When putting the baseplate assembly back on be sure to engage the vacuum unit peg in the hole in the base plate. Be sure to align the keys on the reluctor/shaft/coupler. Manual recommends grease on: Auto advance mech Pickup centre plate bearing Vacuum unit connecting peg Connecting peg hole in vacuum unit connecting rod And 3 drops of clean engine oil to: Felt pad on top of rotor shaft Some diags etc at http://4x4uk.org/faq/attached/Def_90_110_WSM_book5.pdf and go to Section 86 Electronic Ignition Lucas 35DMS distributor. Yes I know its 90 & 110 but it is common to all V8.

And they wonder why people buy Japanese.

http://ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk might be able to give you the answer to that one.

When I had this prob I did it with the dizzy in place. Surround it with cloth so if you drop anything it will not dive into the realms of darkest engine.

Magic

Stainless.

Steel tanks generally go on the join between the top & bottom halves. Whilst the slosh sealants might work, it is usually best to replace the tank. For tanks which have the pump inserted from the top, check to make sure the pickup tube reaches the bottom of the new tank. As to how I know that there can be differences...........

When you turn the rotor arm gently by hand there should be some movement. When released it should return. This indicates the mechanical auto advance/retard mech in the bottom of the dizzy is working - the weights have springs attached. If your rotor arm doesn't do this then the mech is disengaged & that will be the running problem (or it is rusted solid!). Remove the base plate to examine & reattach. Base plate is held on by the three tall towers that the plastic flash cover screws go into). When pulling a rotor arm off you MUST press down on the reluctor (the 8-pointed star thing under the rotor) to stop this happening. If you don't it is highly likely to happen. That info is NOT in either the Factory or Haynes manuals. It doesn't show the mech either.

Don't forget that even with the difflock engaged, if one wheel on the front axle and one wheel on the rear axle have no grip then you will be stuck. All the difflock does is send equal power to the axle diffs. Causes a lot of confusion!

There was a Land Rover in the clip?

Cheapest polishers of all - infinitely variable as to speed and direction - and compatible with polishing pads & products of all descriptions are the things at the end of your arms. (NO no no, not your armpits - the other end )

http://www.carelect.demon.co.uk has a list of suggestions. The CTS as already described is a favourite. I don't think you will have the cold start injector on the plenum. For those that do (3.5) just unplug the electrical connector. Also be sure the rotor arm & dizzy cap are genuine parts. Pattern parts are simply not an option & are the cause of many V8 running problems.

If you really want to upset stepdad try & find friendly car dealer to tell you the Glass's price.

http://turner-engineering.co.uk

Think that's in the archive as well - but I can't find it!!

And this is the way I've done it for years on a lot of vehicles incl my RRC. 12 volt buzzer from maplins. Locate the live feed from the light switch to the sidelights. (Power present when sidelights on) Connect one side of the buzzer to that. Take a wire from the other side of the buzzer to the drivers door courtesy light switch (which is an earth to body) When lights on & door is opened buzzer will sound. Never used a diode & - to date - never had a problem. Total cost less than £2. You do of course use any of these methods at your own risk!

You really need to get a pressure test and a test for the presence of exhaust gases in the coolant (head gasket/liner issues) to eliminate possible sources. Have you tried fillling it & then letting it run up to temp & pressure whilst watching the engine for leaks? Boring I know, but often works. Any hose joint can leak. How much water are we actually talking about? The radiator/overflow tank cap can be a culprit & is often overlooked but they do deteriorate with age. Water pumps are another, when the seal wears water can drip out of the nose. Rusted through core plugs can be another. Leaky rads can start off very slight & the water will boil off before it drips.