The td5 is a good engine if a little thirsty. It is generaly reliable as long as you keep the electics dry. The only major downer is the price of some of the spares , injectors for example are £350 ish each and of course there are 5 of them.
SPI were bought out last year and everything but the radiator side was shut down. A few people ( including some that used to work for SPI ) have bought the tooling and some of the simpler to make items ( footwels ect ) have just started to come back on the market. When doors eventualy are availiable again If was you I would brace myself for the price as even when there was loads to be had the lift up handle doors were VERY expensive.
Borg and Beck were sold a couple of years ago and split in two. The old (good) B and B stuff is now sold as A P Driveline. Anything you buy now as Borg and Beck is made by another company altogether and in my experiance is very poor quality.
I used a calor gas bottle (the big 47kg size) cut in half and welded together with a stick welder. This is ideal for me as I wanted to mount it as low as possible and so it is in the standard underseat position with the domed end downwards for strenghth.If anyone else is going to try this a handy tip is that a landrover axle filler bung is the right size to go where the tap was on the bottle and makes an exellent drain plug.
Just to clarify the club situation P and D (peak and dukeries) is the local ALRC club and is ok if you like that sort of thing. B.A.D.L.R.C (buton and district land rover club) Is not ALRC affiliated and its members (me included) are more free in what they can do to their motors.
NO!! Never join a kinetic to a strop/rope/other kinetic with a shackle as if it fails it can be flung with huge force and possibly kill someone. It is even a bit dodgy to join a kinetic to another strop/rope/other kinetic by looping as this is still a potential fail point.
I lived in India for a while a few years back and remember that quality controll is very poor. A friend had 4 Enfield motorbikes (ok not made by TATA) before getting one that the big ends would stay in or the crank wouldn't twist. This is down to everything being made or recycled materials (most of the worlds scrap goes to India and China) and they seem to be bad at sepparating the materials before they go to be reused , everyting steel is melted down together and used for whatever.
I'm defiately in the not so great catagory regarding the off road capability of kl71 s . My mate has a set on his ninety (265/75r16).They are not very noisey on the road and seem ok off road in the dry. We used in the mud the other day and to be frank they were carp.
Don't know about the rigger boot thing . I always wear them after a big blob of molten steel burned through the tongue of some normal boots when I was scrapping a silo , even with melted laces they don't come off fast enough! Just make sure you wear the riggers inside your trouser legs or in an ideal world get some Quick escape foundry boots.
I recently came upon some synthetic winch rope while looking on Geared to go.co.uk (sorry,can't work out how to do links) and at first glance it looked to be ok and come in a huge 14mm size. I then read that it is only reccomended for winches op to 9500lbs, what is it made from plaited baler twine?!!
I read a review of these in an imported American 4x4 mag and apparently they are quite poor in mud but very good on rock. They even suggested that they change the name to Extreme rock terrain.
Husky or Jonsered if you're going to look after it, Sthil if you aren't. When I did my training all the teachers used Huskys and all the students used Sthils.Huskys are nicer to use and tend to vibrate less (important if your'e using it all day) but need more maintenance than Stihls. The top handle ones are only availiable to SOME certificate holders(normally tree surgeons) because if an untrained person is going to use something the makes 3 pounds of mince a seccond if it contacts flesh they should at least use two hands!!!
Hi .Does anyone know of somewhere in Derbyshire that sells the component parts for cages? I am making a cage for my series 2a project and just need to buy the front section that goes arround the windscreen and down to the chassis. I have made the rear section but on the last bend on the front section my bender cracked the former ( that'll teach me to use carp benders).
Thanks in advance