TSD

In parallel I think, rather than series, though might as well try both. But the disco one would be a better check. If the light is full on, it's unlikely to be due to that though, I'd suspect a duff regulator. You can often bodge the sender with one or two resistors (one series, one parallel) but it's likely you get a gauge that only reads right at two places. Done it for fuel gauges in the past, where it can be harder to change the sender. Try to use a series sender if you can though, it's likely to be much less hassle.

Is it fully lit, or glowing? Does it light up when you put the ignition on, but before you start the engine? Most likely the bulb wattage is too low, so the alternator current draw through the bulb is enough to put the light on. Try temporarily adding a second bulb wired across the first one to check.

I have the TD5 Defender specific Webasto Thermotop-C installation manual. PM me your email address if you want it.

Those Ford heater control valves are so comically unreliable, they should come in a **itpart box. Presumably thats why there are loads for sale on the bay. Mine failed while sat on a shelf - tested it when I bought it (new), put it to one side while the project came together, then when I dug it out it was siezed solid. Seemed the plastic plunger had become one with the seat, it snapped when I tried to separate it.

Sounds like they've 'padded' the pot circuit to set the control range - put extra resistors at one end or other of the pot (or both) to set the range of the control signal. As a thought, you can probably still use a pot with higher resistance by adding a fixed parallel resistance to bring the overall back to 5k. It depends on the internal circuit though, no way to tell without trying it.

If you are using a pot, as a pot, does it really matter much what its total resistance is? Or are you feeding it from a resistive source, or into a low impedance load?

Enrique The 300tdi flywheel housing should fit, it certainly does for the 2.8TGV version. TSD

You might get some more help if readers understand what you are trying to do... I'm guessing here, but I assume you are trying to use the 2.5TDI from a South American spec Ford Ranger. That engine is an International HS2500, so almost the same as a 300TDI, but for Ford use has different intake pipework, engine mounts and flywheel housing. I don't think the td5 and 300 bellhousing pattern is the same, so that probably won't work for you. Also I thought the TD5 block bolted directly to the gearbox, without a separate flywheel housing. I don't know what engine you currently have, but I *think* with a little work you could also use the 200tdi or 2.5NA flywheel housing to mate the engine to a tdi type LT77.

Didn't see this mentioned on here... Autocar reports the death of Charles Spencer 'Spen' King, the father of the Range Rover. Autocar

Having checked my notes, early type has separate spacer behind the idlers, later type has the spacer integral with the tensioner/idler. Early type should fit if you buy the spacers, but the TGV is fitted with the late type ones from the factory.

IIRC the difference is in the way the idlers are located. Pretty certain I used late parts for my TGV.

I have a genuine Momo boss on one of my trucks, but I cant remember where I got it, and it was 6-7 years back, so probably wouldn't help anyway. On my other truck, I have a custom adapter that QT made, using the centre from an original steering wheel. They made it for whatever brand wheel they sold at the time, but it fits the Momo as well.

I used to keep a 1" diamond cutting wheel (bought from Maplin IIRC) in my work toolbox with the Dremel. Excellent for hard metals, it will cut through a spanner with no effort at all. I always thought it would be a brilliant scrapyard tool with a cordless dremel.

Did you open up the plug gaps to make the most of the high energy coil? If you do, it will raise the ignition voltage of course, and then you find out how close you are to a tracking problem. Even with standard plug gaps, a high spark energy will tend to mask an engine that fouls it's plugs, or has a hosing injector. It's an RV8, of course there's something wrong with it!

Come on Nige, you must know that red ones are faster

At the risk of being a bit technical on a technical forum... Under proper running conditions, the actual ignition voltage isn't any higher than with a standard coil. When the ignition fires, the plug voltage rises rapidly until a spark is ignited, then falls quickly back to a much lower sustaining voltage until the stored coil energy is used up. However, I have seen papers suggesting that quite a large percentage (5-10%?) of ignition events (in a Kettering ignition system) result in some form of partial misfire (late firing, incomplete combustion etc.). The high energy coil might (probably will IMHO) result in an improvement to those events, as if the plug doesn't fire the voltage will continue to rise until a spark is established, and the spark will be of longer duration due to higher available energy. The effect is probably quite small, but on an engine with sub-optimal chamber design, like the RV8, it might be quite noticeable. I doubt that a high energy system will be that much better than a standard EDIS system though. Remember how much better an EDIS system is than a Kettering one? Thats because it uses up most of the available improvement (coil energy management, high voltage ignition, timing accuracy etc.) On a system with standard plug leads, it might well be a disaster. Once a spark path has been established, then a low energy path exists for a spark to track. One no-fire event at startup will expose that part of the system to the highest available voltage in the system. If a breakdown occurs and the spark tracks out, it leaves a trail of carbonised oil, plastic etc. which is slightly conductive. This makes it easiers for tracking to occur on this path later, when the voltage is lower, during normal running. Inductive coupling between adjacent cylinders (usually #3 and #5 on an RV8 IIRC) is also likely to be more of an issue with higher energy systems. I doubt either will be an issue with Magnecor leads - I'm sure you know how hard it is to fire a timing light over magnecor leads. The next big improvement in ignition is probably ion sensing. Saab and GM spent a deal of money looking at it in the 90s. Sensing the spark current allows a controller to infer a lot about whats happening inside the combustion chamber, and make suitable changes to mixture and timing on a per-cylinder basis. I've not read up on that in a few years though, don't know what the current state of the art is. D.

Left handed drill bits are ideal for this job (with a reversible drill of course!). Chances are, it won't matter if you arent perfectly in the centre because as you move up to larger drill sizes, the stud will usually unscrew itself.

I commuted 90 miles a day for 6 years, first in a 200tdi Disco, then in the Ibex. Hang the sense of it, life's too short to spend 2 hours a day driving some hateful eurobox PoS - I'd rather be sat in my Ibex shivering and going deaf

Worked fine for me, just made sure it was well rinsed off and wiped over with an oly rag afterwards.

And a grounding bolt on the bottom?

OK, I think this is right, but maybe a grown-up will check it before you start wiring?

I should learn to read better, you already said the solenoids are single pole (2 large, 2 small terminals). Does the motor have 2,3 or 4 terminals?

I'd guess the solenoids are single pole types, like this one? :- I've seen them used on older Warn winches, in particular with permanent magnet motors. They can be used with series wound winch motors as well though. (I had an M8000 with PM motor and solenoids like that). Can you confirm how many terminals are on the solenoids, and on the motor (and maybe post pics)? Then I'm sure someone will beat me to providing a schematic for you Dave

10W/40 is within the range spec from Land Rover. Sump capacity is 6L, plus about a litre for oil filter change etc.

I've got a DeWalt 1/2" driver I've had for about 8 years, which shows no sign of giving up. Not the ultimate in torque (being 12V), but enough for most things, and small enough to get into places that larger ones I've tried cannot. I think it was about £250, with two batteries and a 1 hour charger. (I've got a mains powered one for silly torque, but rarely use it) Being 12V, when the batteries finally die, I'll just attach an Anderson connector Seems it's got cheaper too, it certainly looks like the same one... http://www.toolsave.co.uk/product.php?prod_code=DW053K2 I have heard that DeWalt quality is not what it was, but no personal experience. These are the only DeWalt tools I own, and I'm more than happy with both of them. Dave