Kierran.M.110

Just and idea that popped into my head, cant remember if it was mentioned or not but for the barnd idea could HS (Hybrid Special) be used instead of xs. and if that were a possibility could one of these be considered: HS CleanView (didnt use clear view as there seems to be business's using that name. or HS ScreenClean (my favourite, has a ring to it ) or Hs ScreenWipe (this popped into my head at the last min) Well thats my contribution, a set of HS Screenclean would be nice on my freshly rebuilt 110 and new windscreen, just saying

looking through the latest lroi mag i seen the advert for warrior winches snow plough that fits a 2" reciever if you have one fittied to the front. im sure this could give you inspiration. i would prefer for it to have two mounting points to the vehicle like you have suggested. http://www.warriorwinch.co.uk/winch_snow_plow.php

+1 for the pics, im considering building a reciever hitch for the ground clearance and also would be nice to make a step that will fit in and another recovery point would be nice

im probably going to go with a set of bfg when i can afford it,i wouldnt be doing more than 15k miles a year but these country roads full of potholes ruin tyres im hoping the bfg will be stronger. being in ireland myself i know what you are faced with the mud always seems to be wet and sticky except for the 2 or 3 weeks of good weather in june, my current tyres which are cheap AT's just cant cope with it.

2ft deep is perfect for what i have ever needed with a shelf above that thats 1ft deep and 14ft( about 5ft working space and 9ft random stuff)

oh i wish i had a ramp, reading this thread i have considered myself lucky as mine is only just high enough to get my 110 in, but floor space isnt an issue. I would definetely vote in favour of a fixed heavy duty work bench on the far wall, a must in any garage where a landrover is concered for beating on siezed parts

i used a sheet of cow mat, does the job nicely

definetely go for new doors i repaired mine and now i wish i had just bought new ones,nidge where bouts in ireland are you

i would happily put down the money for a new defender, reason being a shogun is around the same price new and i happened to be driving one the other day and it was no where near as good off road as the defender. the first test drive after taking my defender out after rebuilding it the other day i am fortunate to have some quite steep slopes in my garden and it went up with out and problems and the shogun owned by a friend of mine couldnt even get onto the slope because the ground clearance was too low and looked as if the fuel tank was one of the lowest parts and had too much overhang and the shogun was swb the defender is a 110. based on this if i were in the market for a shiny new 4x4 there is only one option for me. and i am not totally against the idea of the defender being replaced just as long as its as good or better when the going gets tough.

i am coming to the end of my rebuild, the cost of it is nearly worth the satisfaction of doing it yourself rather than buying one. if i was doing it again i would take more note when taking things apart as it is amazing the amount of small little brackets and wires i have "spare". take as many pictures as you can and label every single wire, its worth it believe me.

i got a sealey 1/2" great value for money has done alot on my 110 and done a few headgaskets with it still as tight when i first got it

i will do a bit of a write up with a few pics once i have put a few miles on it as im not too familiar with it yet

from what i can remember it does pull well but im still having some running problems doesnt want to run for very long before it just cuts out

here is a few pics i have saved of then engine the adaptor plate is about 3" thick,it uses a landrover clutch which is handy as they are cheaper than the iveco

yep no bother i have the lt77 gearbox i believe the conversion was done by frogs island so i contacted them and it was but they have no records so unfortunelty i dont rea;ly know the history of the engine. will upload some pics by this eveing

twas a dodgy stop solenoid many hours of head scratching bypassed it fired straight up, cheers

tried cracking the injectors only getting a small dribble and its not common rail its an early 90's 2.5

im having bother starting my 110 with a 2.5 iveco engine with a mechanical lift pump. i have fuel in the lines and the filter but there seems to be an airlock in the pump just before the injector pipes. i have been using the lever on the fuel pump and turning the engine over but cannot get the fuel to come through. any help would be greatly appreciated

would love one but i already have the other one, i think what i will do is join 8 smaller cables to a spare length of battery cable i have which happens to be long enough as taff_jj said

would have liked a fuse box that had the one output but is a tad on the pricy side

i have recently purchased a fuse box like this (http://www.ebay.ie/itm/8-WAY-STANDARD-BLADE-FUSE-BOX-WITH-WATERPROOF-COVER-12V-/270705674229?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f0750c7f5#ht_2308wt_932) for wiring my raptor dash, what is the best way of getting power to the fuse box as i dont want 8 small cables coming from the battery box or a load of messy connections (ideally)

i got one from flat fog 4x4 from billing last year, looks similar to the first four and sits back in to the grill about the same as the first four challenge bumper, the difference look wise is it does not have the diagonal pieces on the top that go to the a-bar i paid 250 for it delivered as it was too big for me to bring home at the time. cant find it on their website now though. pic is bumper off the landy can get close ups if you need them

had a look this morning and i have the ring terminal for the earth wire attached to the bulkhead already so i tried cutting the black/green and earthing it independantly and it worked so i just have to sort out the bad earth and i should be ready to start once i get diesel and get 2 pipes to go to the heater matrix, cheers for your help.

so could i try earthing the relay on its own from that wire (i am rubbish at electrics if you havnt guessed already)

the black green wire goes to a standard plug in the engine bay and i do not believe that there is any more earth terminals to be connected but i will have another look at the weekend. and how would i have a crank relay coil on automatics if i have a mannual