steve_a

There is a world of difference (and pain) between arc and mig for an amateur (I speak as a very experienced amateur, my welding has been amateur for some time!). I bought a cheapish arc, might go as high as 140A as my first welder (I had done oxy, mig and arc at UNI for a few weeks and enjoyed it and wasn't bad at it, only about 10 years before) but it's been very little use, where as the cheap mig i bought has been used quite a bit. Is it just me or do you seem to get better penetration from Arc for the same Ampage? I could blow a hole in thick metal and find it difficult to get the penetration from the mig. Reason I ask is that I was considering doing my own rear x member and I thought about mig to tack it in place and then arc for the proper welding? I think welding is one of those job where the quality of the tools makes a big difference rather than the workman and a poop welder will deliver poop welding no matter what

Shame I have too many other things going on I would love a trip out like this. Maybe next year, though I really want to go to the mountains in northern spain where there is meant to be wild wolves. Hopefully Chris will get a map dump from me over the next week or two and he can yak to all those going about what he does or don't have Steve

Microcat launcher Right I've just got around to finishing this, at least for the first go, had a play on my machine, but may have problems on others. The executable you want is here Microlaunch For reference the source code is here Microlaunch source (vs 2003 project) How to use Should be simple enough. 1) unzip to the directory with microcat in, mine is c:\mclre 2) run the executable there and then, a configuration box comes up. - browse for the executable you wish to run, this is because you might have a couple of them like me (I have been 'editing' microcat) - select the method you want to use + timed simply waits the set number of seconds and then puts your clock back to as near as I can to the time it should be. MC may not have initialised by this time + look for MC window - probably your best bet, it will look for the main MC window and once found will set the clock back and finish 3) click OK. a file called ml.cfg is created in the same directory as the exe. Binary file, easy to edit if you really want to, but I wouldn't bother. 4) MC will launch and should work 5) alter your microcat shortcut or create a new shortcut, in any case point the shortcut to the microlaunch exe on my system my shortcut said "c:\mclre\copy of mclre.exe" and i changed it to "c:\mclre\microlaunch.exe" add on "-go" to the line, so now it looks like "c:\mclre\microlaunch.exe" -go 6) Save the shortcut, if you want the microcat icon you would be better altering your existing shortcut or copying it and altering the copy. If you click on the shortcut now microcat will launch with no drama. NOTES: there is no date setting as I use the dset file to see what date it should be set to for validity. The current one floating around was 200609 I think, and works for me. Your clock will in most cases be correct to a few seconds after microcat is alive - however... if you run it at midnight, on the final day of the month that goes into a month that is shorter, your clock will probably remain at microcat time.............. The exe should not need any extra files, if it complains let me know and I will provide them, I tried to make sure it would work out the box. Source code: you are welcome to have a look and modify, it's only a quick lash up and I am releasing because I know people like to know what they are running on their machines... now all your codes a m1n3

if you get stuck you can fit a 334 - i did tonight, something liek 690 CCA and 155 a/h . They didn't have any 072 in halfords, span some dit about how the can't get any and the factory is making them. I needed a battery then and there so just went for the next one that would fit with the terminals the right way around

If there is a general demand i can knock a simple prog up to do this - I have been looking at microcat for the last week to see if i could remove all of these bodges but it's actually a bit of pain in the arse, like I am running a VMWare win 3.1 image to work on it... nostalgia So if you want a quick proggie (in fact I'll even let the source code be available) to do this shout up, if I get a few replies I will make up something.

Think ALDI has one for 25 this week too - looks v similar.

Might be useful - was searching for info on double cardans to see how they are constructed and managed to get this data sheet, stuck it in my webspace and heres hte link for anyone who wants it. Spicer Double Cardan Prop PDF (in zip) datasheets also a very useful page on doing a rebuild TRS Magazine DC rebuild

Ditto Trodden, battled with the front arms for probably a full day or more to get everything lined up. Taper the ends of some old bolts the same size (M16 IIRC) and hammer them home. This will get you a hell of a lot of the way there. you might need one or two different types, I did a wedge, Si Brown did a taper. Whatever floats your boat i think. Bang them in from the wheel side so you can then drive them out with the proper bolts for final fitting. If you have a lift I am sure that aligning them is more difficult, the axle is slightly rotated which makes that difficult and then the arms are slanted upwards making a bugger of trying to get the nut on the end. A collection of big hammers, jacks and crowbars as well. Feel for you .......

Does it have an external antenna connection, i have looked at a couple of reviews which suggest it does, tempted to get one since it seems a good price and my current one is good but getting on, couldn't live without it now.

There was some sweat on it, does that count? A bit afraid that if I cut it off then I end up with the shank stuck in there and might not get it out. I think i might pop a wheel off to get to the nut end and then I get some serious wallop on it, I think the sledgehammer will be called for. I might take some footage of me trying to get it undone first though, spose even if it starts turning it will still have the metal sleeve of the polybush to come off.

OK - never seen something this stuck before. I weigh give or take 16 stone. I had my 24mm spanner on the rear radius arm (axle end) bolt to try and give it a turn before I start to hammer the old bolt out. The nuts are slacked off, though that took both legs pushing for all I could to get them going. It will not move. I submit this bolt as the most incredibly stuck bolt I have come across. I would have no fear about taking the nut complete off and driving for six months to loosen it.

Not sure there is a whole lot to do Geoff, I replaced the complete hydraulic system when I had a problem where the clutch was dragging. In the process I had the slave out and the missus pressing the clutch with both and old and new slave. Couldn't see a lot of difference, though that might be because there was nothing wrong with the hydraulic side anyway (turned out the clutch plate had got stuck to flywheel while the box was on the floor for a week, took a rag around the block in anger to free it, not that I knew it when I went round the block ) Sounds vaguely master cylinder to me, you could try as some have here when a failure has occurred and fill with oil which is thicker, if the master cylinder seals are failing the oil won't creep past so easily. Don't know if you would end up having to renew or at least flush the system after that though Changing the master can be done in about an hour with the right motivation, however it is a right PITA while you do it. You could just alter the master cylinder throw to get rid of unused area if you want, or just forget about it ?

You all might be interested in Pulse Jet Engines I always loved the idea of one of these on each side of the 90 for the motorway cruising In comparison to some of the fabrication that takes place here a pulse jet is pretty easy. However I must warn you that I am unsure if they are legal for you to make in the UK.... WTF did he take the lawn mower???

Pretty much what I did Si, learnt after doing the range rover that taking both sides off made life harder. And the taper is what I did with some spare bolts I had in the garage. Drivers side is just so short of clearance that it is a right PITA to get a hammer in and knock the bolts in. Just wondered if there was more than a brute force and luck method I am pretty sure that the lift is making things harder as the axle looks like it just needs to rotate a little to bring the rear bolt in line, which would be in line with lift rotation. I even chocked all 4 wheels before starting to try and stop any movement of everything. I know the front are the hardest having the two holes to line up, the rear ones shouldn't be too bad when I get to them. Next question - what do I do when I drive the car and it goes in a straight line, I'm gonna have some more time on my hands so was wondering what everyone else did

I thought this was going to be an easier job than it turned out to be, took me a full man day to do the radius arms. No removal of old bushes, the polybushes just came right out, the metal inserts fell out as soon as the arms were clear, so there was a bit of wear Took me 1/2 hour to get arm off, 5 mins to put new bushes in, and the 3 hours to get the thing lined up - in the rain A quick tip which would have saved me about 2 hours is to get a couple of old bolts, probably progressive sizes up to the radius arm bolts and then cut the ends to a wedge shape. You can then hammer the wedged start bolt in and it will drive the arm to the right spot, switch up a size so it aligns some more and so on till you get to the old bolts that are the same size. If you are lucky i guess you might be able to just slide the new bolts in after that, otherwise you can use the new bolt to hammer out the aligner and leave it in place. I think this would work great on the near side, it works fine on the off side front bolt, but the rear one is very tight for clearance, i have the aligner in but can't get the new bolt in place, I was getting tired of being wet through though. I think having a second person to rock the truck would help a lot in getting those front arms aligned. I think I had mentally blocked out the trauma of doing my brothers range rover last feb... So any other tips for how to align the holes? I can't believe i didn't think of grinding the wedge onto some old bolts earlier, would have cut the job right back.

hmm - I have had a look and changed all the other dates i suspected could be involved, but it still won't play. I'll continue to look and see if i can sort anything.

right, think i have enabled the pricing information, though the numbers look a little odd. Can someone without a modified version check the price for ANR3410 - panhard bush, £3.10 (RTI??) on my version now. Also have a look at the later one which is £8.35? check the price for FTC5303, oil seal on gearbox mainshaft. this shows on mine as £2.01 and earlier is £16.09 ?? if these numbers are the same as someone elses then i will post how to enable the pricing information with no date changes etc

only if he agrees to a text message they send him - he might be stupid enough to. I'll have to keep an eye open on the dates, I am up the road but an evening out of landys and this w****r sounds like a good laugh.

Didn't even know there was pricing information, I'll try and have a look this week and see. To be honest, i usually just use microcat to look for part numbers and assembly information, price has never been a use. Must be another file hanging around with the date in for validity of price.

check the shape of the drum shoes, i had some brit part ones which were complete cack and I had to grind the correct shape onto them so that they didn't bind. Not something you would normally think to check at all. If both sides though, suggest you need to look at making sure the adjusters are fully backed off.

I think the dll is there to avoid a dongle check, probably patches the call to a serial or parallel port to return the right number every time. guess which field I work in

Additional info from the instructions for enabling this to run, as it stands it will need to have your clock changed, to avoid this follow these instructions: There is a file called "dset" in C:\MCLRE\Mcindex\LRE and also C:\LRE_Data Both files contain a single line, currently 200609 If you change both files to a later date (say 200809) it will run without fiddling with dates. I think you could probably do any date you fancy, I guessed at 2008 and it worked, but it will need to be updated in 2 years time. .

OK, finally had a look a the defenders gearbox (LT77) last week and like I expected the drain plug was holding ATF in. So I assume that as a minimum that the front oil seal on the shaft has gone. I need to do the clutch (either worn out or ruined by the ATF, don't know which) so I will do the oil seal at the same time. Looking at the parts catalogue it would appear that the casting over the shaft has the oil seal, gasket, washers/shims,bearing the oil seal would appear to be either UKC1060L or FTC5303 and the bearing RTC6751. The bearing is a taper roller, so I guess I may be able to replace it, however looking at the WSM it looks like I would need to check the shims for correct clearance and preload. Anybody ever needed to change these to stop a leak, what is the chance the bearing has gone as opposed to just the oil seal wearing out and/or the gasket failing and allowing a little leakage. Should i order the bearing and oil seal and gasket and just wait and see what the score is when I open it all up?

Just to reply, since i have more than 2 minutes to spare for change, no, we didn't ever do the bob. He is keeping the 110 as is and doing a major space frame a RR that he bought. Thought looking back at the pictures I do still think it looks great. We were considering fitting his 110 with an underseat tank for veggie oil running though. I'm getting tempted to do this myself, I am being seduced by using a discovery day in day out, and going back to the 90 truck cab I feel squished and annoyed - have given some thought to selling it and bobbing our discovery etc. But I'd love to try a 110 and see how that gets on

not sure, it looks familiar though, almost like i have seen one very recently.