Bowie69

This is an interesting way of measuring something:

I was very tempted to do the same, given the minimal cost.

This is too high, book is ~600 IIRC.

Totally fixed.

The whole post: I honestly think the LWB version look a lot better... or even the ones with an enclosed back, that helps a lot too.

Ummmm thread revival!

Also be aware, if using Rhoads lifters they will tick especially when warm... As you don't know what is in there by your own admission, making assumptions may cost you a lot of money... Just saying

Yep, they are reasonable value, but are no stronger than the aluminium ones for normal use, and add very significant weight to the valve train that can have unintended consequences elsewhere through the added inertia. As said, they were really designed for high RPM applications, not every day drivers. I had a set once, they had so much clearance to the rocker shaft the oil pressure dropped and the rocker covers filled with oil overcoming the valve stem seals and causing massive oil burning issues. They went in the bin.

Are you 7ft tall?

Fraid not, though you can get them, they are only designed for very high revving engines.

Depending on the engine spec (would need engine number to confirm....), you could be looking only 135bhp, comparing that to a Td5 with oodles more torque is not really fair - the TD5 will run rings round it.

I'd honestly not try splashing out on anything, for example, I am currently running 15 year old genuine LR leads that have been in three vehicles and had multiple different ends crimped on to them - and still fine. If you have specific leads that have failed, replace that lead, and then move on to the next problem. Same for the amp, try a known good one, people on this forum likely have spares kicking about you could buy/try for a tenth of the price. When you have it running right then think about splashing out, until then you are basically firehosing money on to the project without a clear idea of what is wrong... RPI like to trade on their reputation, but really most of their kit is overpriced, and their advice...... Can be questioned. They still recommend carbs, last I heard 🙄 All that said, if you want to spend money, there's no stopping you! But worth noting proper diagnosis is much better and cheaper than just shotgunning parts at a car.

Avoid RPI, please.

I'd be checking the dizzy cap, rotor etc

It could, what make leads are they? And if you pull it off does it make a difference to the running?

ah, here we go: https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/113547-barn-door-1971-series-iii-88-rebuild/#comments

There was another one that appeared on here ~6 months ago, think it was an aftermarket conversion.

Also, leather in a damp defender? Won't last....

In case it is the chip: https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/114478-bit-of-a-clear-out-for-2024/?do=findComment&comment=1078743

Would it go on sideways....

Thank you, I had looked at these in the past, but like you found them too expensive really, your find does make it cheaper. One question, have you used the app and was it any good/use?

That all sounds like a dead or unplugged MAF

Yep, full panel, and while doing so he'd 'acquire' a new to him 400 ton press 'from the scrapman' to do it with.

Is it a newly rebuilt engine? Just trying to work out why the oil isn't black...

Like for like, but a better thing to do is separate it, apply assembly lube, rafit and fit new clamp. Or just weld it up 😁