Bowie69

....and a fire extinguisher.

Glad to hear this: Not so much this: This one could have failed of course.... What trigger wheel are you using, the one on the flexplate or one on the crank pulley? I assume flexplate if you are using the GEMs VR sensor. I also assume it is running without EDIS given all the messing with trims etc? You could be getting cross-talk from another HT lead. I would be wary of relying on this as a way to confirm when something is firing or not. This is classic failed or backwards VR IMHO, that or too big of a gap between VR and trigger wheel, or not enough steel in the teeth. I don't suppose it is too easy to measure the gap if you are using the flexplate? My final thought is if you have a spare EDIS8 kicking about, give it power and ground and jerry rig it to the coil packs and see what it does spark wise? it will be a fixed 10 degrees without a SAW, but that doesn't matter. Would eliminate the ECU from all this.

Measuring it can work, but honestly, I've always had better results when doing it by 'feel', if it flops around left to right then it is too loose, if tight so that it stops immediately when you stop pushing then it is too tight.

Agreed, same with the Mehari, some Mediterranean island, Spain, morroco etc it would be great.

Any EFI* will be infinitely better than a leaky toilet, has good market share in the US where having messy injectors at the inlet ports make converted classics look untidy. That engine is a 4.0, which will require more work than the 3.9, as mentioned above, swapping front covers and the like to make it classic, but may be worth it. £2K is a bit strong, if you ask me. *As long as you steer clear of old and worn out Lucas stuff from the 80s!

Good way to find out just how much bottle you have in a SWB land rover.

Very, no chance in fact. Like I say, you would need high compression pistons at a minimum to make the most of the cam and heads, and any quoted figures for improvements are enormously optimistic and can basically be ignored. Even with stage 1 heads and a cam and hi comp pistons if you broke 165 I would be very, very surprised.

A low comp 3.5 has very little need for more airflow from either a cam or especially heads, you need the bigger capacity engines and/or a compression ratio bump. 3.9s with a dizzy can be found in many a rotting disco second hand on eBay. Your car would bolt on and a tiny tweak to the wiring to the dizzy and you are up and running. Even if you are using a leaky toilet to fuel it, it will be infinitely better than the 3.5 Havw you checked timing BTW? Makes a amssiv difference to performance.

If you are taking out the low comp 3.5, ready a 3.9 (easiest) ,4.0 or 4.6 to plop in. First two will give you an extra ~50-70BHP, and the latter nearly 100. And you could do it for less than the cost of a cam, lifters and a pair of stage 1 heads.

Lack of pressure when cold is good...

Given you have no idea how hot it was getting, I'd wager that was the fuel boiling or something else. Solve one at a time...

I'm no fortune teller, but that amount of steam would suggest a HG. Does it pressurise the cooling system when cold?

To be honest, no more stupid than a 911 in Dakar form, and personally I start slightly salivating when I see one... I'm assuming people have seen this: Safari version of the Ami, pretty similar to the Citroen Mehari.

Also, I wasn't trying to say it is either a hose or the headgaskets, more there's a myriad of things that sit in between those two things that it could be. Have you given all the hoses etc a really good check? It could just be the level dropped enough to get hot. An IR gun for £10 is always useful when diagnosing these things.

Was this from dead cold?

For some reason it looks like you have managed to over heat it, it could be anything from a weeping hose clamp or bad electric fan to a head gasket failure, hard to tell from a distance I'm afraid, but I'd be checking the cheap things first. It seems like your temp gauge is not calibrated properly to the sender, otherwise it would normally run in the middle of the gauge, I would advise getting this sorted.... The running on you experienced can be an overly rich carb, but also I've seen it when an engine has got too hot, I wouldn't worry about that until you get the overheating issue sorted.

Are you not going to check the fuses yourself?

Yes, there should continuity in the pads, not sure what sort of power they use, but they would maybe measure up at ~0.5 Ohm?

?

This is an interesting way of measuring something:

I was very tempted to do the same, given the minimal cost.

This is too high, book is ~600 IIRC.

Totally fixed.

The whole post: I honestly think the LWB version look a lot better... or even the ones with an enclosed back, that helps a lot too.

Ummmm thread revival!