Bowie69

As you have headers.... Well, they are noisier than normal manifolds for a start. I've run stainless, along with a good amount of copper slip I have had no issued with corrosion.

Yep, that's what I thought it was for too.

This is the same V8 I tried to start while running because I couldn't hear it To me though, the second video sounds like a small exhaust leak, nothing more sinister. Look for any sooty stains at all the exhaust joints, not just where it bolts to the head. Where it does bolt to the head, start from hold and use your finger tips to detect any passing gasses . Normally pretty obvious. Picking out this kind of noise is very difficult from a smartphone recoding, their mics aren't great and coupled with dubious audio compression means a lot of the actual sounds you think are there are just noise -this is why I didn't originally comment, diagnosing stuff like noises over the internet is incredibly difficult. You also can't tell where the noise is coming from, which is probably 80% of the diagnosis. If it is a mechanical tick then a long screwdriver can help.

They shouldn't be any wires attached to the exhaust manifold.

30% more than the sport, which I think managed nearly 50mpg.

I did see that, the fuel consumption was a surprise, however it may be in part down to a brand new very tight engine, modern stuff is such fine tolerance it takes a while for things to bed in. Granted it may not be as good as the sport long term, but to be so much worse I can't see it being just because it is a different shape.

A nice auto wouldn't make that racket.

The stuff in coke was/phosphoric acid, cheap to buy in bulk and great for the garden once you have used it!

Yep, should be no real difficulty, and if you're comparing it to a manual swap, possibly easier as you can put the engine where you want.

Yep, the range was a good selling point given I don't work on only land rovers....

I think the instructions say to weld it back up, no?

In all honesty on a carbed series v8 you shouldnt really have wires anywhere near an exhaust manifold, should you? Best protection is just to move them...

An idea of the failure mode would be good, and what brand bearings have been used.

Wire insulation is good to 105C normally, so really it should be fine with mostly just abrasian mitigations.

Welcome back Jeff...

Yep. a pain, I've never been 100% happy with my set up, it's a lot more vulnerable than your pictured one.

Yup minimum 3 ton stands, the 2 ton ones aren't long enough to keep a wheel off the ground.

Not so much about the weight for me, I think I have a no-name version of this: If anything looks like this, run far, far away:

If you don't have to lift it, don't, even on a non-lofted truck access is pretty good just rolling under. If you do want to lift it, a proper LR bottle jack is often better(from the axle tube), though nothing to stop you using a trolley on the diff pumpkin, as long as it has a reasonable footprint, and not some cheap nasty thing. Then axle stands as required, again on the axle tube, normally, though you can put them under the chassis if working on suspension that requires it.

I'd see what colour the oil is that comes out, if only rebuilt 8K ago I can't see what removing the sump will tell you any more than looking to see if the oil has sparkles in it.

Try running navigation in the background/as an overlay, it fixes it for me....

So almost 2.5K with all the boxes ticked...

To clarify, I was going to keep one medium size bow shackle for stuff like that, plus a lot of the soft shackles jow come with sheaths that protect them from the sharper edges. In LGT I'm not going to be recovering anything much heavier than I am, so the decision was made to focus on what I needed to get myself out, as selfish as that may seem, but in reality if there is a long hard pull to be done, it would be more likely done by someone else entirely.

Direct from Adwest 10 years ago.... Beloved by the comp safari drivers, but ultimately slightly weaker than a stock 4 bolt, if rumours are found to be true.