Bowie69

I'd suggest either wiring, sender or gauge is at fault, there's no reason for an idling Tdi to suddenly jump into the red.

You should be able to just get the boot, de-pin the connector, replace boot and shove the wires back in to the connector.

Agreed, like I said, not compressed like jpg, wasn't quite saying it had compression. For clarity anyone posting bmp should be

It is.... But png is not compressed like jpg or webp, which are often 20% of the size of the png.

Jpg or webp for web please

Oh we have that too...

Not sure about that, I mean it works.... But personally I'd be looking at an electric column, feels like this is just using LR parts because they are there rather than they are best fit.

It's a bit more nuanced than that over here, if you are VAT registered (so a business) you can claim the VAT back, if you are a private individual then you can't claim it, it just goes into the governments purse. This even applies to second hand vehicles sold by a garage, which always feels a bit odd that on a £1K vehicle you have to pay £200 to the government for the privilege, a VAT registered buyer can still claim it back though. However the annual duty/tax/road fund licence/vehicle excise duty is based on emissions (mostly), and not dependent on whether it is a van or a car. Lorries are more again, of course, last time I heard which was about 10 years ago was of the order of £4K p.a., bound to have gone up by now.

I'm just astonished Stephen hasn't just narrowed the axle casing. I mean... You shortened the diffs, the casing should a piece of cake?

And radiator or engine?

Yes, what I mean is that for the first 10 years of users, it will be serviced by a main dealer and therefore not an issue anyone at LR really cares about.

8mm plate? also: This crossed my mind too!

Assume it is catching on the insides of the tank -perhaps it just needs a bit of adjustment? That or the 'float' doesn't.

The wiring specs are on that page, lower down

It's not ideal, but will you notice?

Elementary, my dear Charles.

You could connect two diodes to the 'on' outputs, and connect them to to the trigger of a relay. Then use the NC connection in the relay to power the buzzer. When the switch is in either of the on positions, the relay will be triggered, turning the buzzer off. Make sure relay is powered by ignition live though

Just not really needed on a vehicle regularly serviced by a garage.

I couldn't find one when mine fell apart, I took the opportunity to buy one of the retro coloured ones you can get on Ebay....

This statement is worthless without pics.

According to Ashcroft, each of the LT77s are different ratios, military, early 110/90 and RRC disco are different.

Also, nothing to stop you digging in the whole workshop....

A sunk lift is OK, but if you are planning on rolling hoists or jacks around in the same space it becomes a massive pain.

The Lc1 and LC2 use different sensors, so be aware of that, I forget the nomenclature, but it is clear when you start looking as the plugs are different. If it works and gives a reading then it will be fine, I've certainly had one in a box for 5 years and it worked fine on first switch on, just remember to calibrate it in free air.

It may melt at 420C, but I bet you the tank is hotter than that for dipping.