Bowie69

To be honest, if your heavy and are mostly doing those speeds, depending on tyre size then you may find it much more enjoyable to drive with a 1.4.

It makes very little difference, I've run LPG for thousands of miles in the past and never touched the plugs.

Did it wobble before balancing?

Does this have anything to do with it? MAMBA TURBO - MAMBATEK

I guess an awful lot of this can be achieved using a PDM these days, one at each end of the vehicle and CAN between them, centralised configuration point. In fact I can't see anything that has been suggested couldn't be done that way, they are essentially microcontroller, but have all the thinking done for you by someone with loads of experience.

I am in the area as you know, but I don't own any cars that require that sort of treatment

Is it a manual? I would look at your HT leads going to the spark plugs and coil packs, maybe start it up in the dark and see if you can see sparks jumping between them and the engine -if so just replace them. If the ignition light goes on, then it could be the belt slipping, check condition and replace if necessary. ,,,,,and maybe slow down through puddles!

You sure it's not just a wrap?

Even in Arduino IDE it is C, but appreciate if you know the IDE then will likely take you no time at all to get up and running

For inputs or...? If you can make a voltage divider and understand pull up/down resistors you are 90% of the way there. You can use the Arduino IDE for ESP32, as I understand it, the Code setup can't be time consuming, but may be worth it when I get a roundtuit.

Mostly they are stories, and prolonged exposure situations. With a decent mask and ventilation it is fine to do DIY, I mean, I'm still here... But of course, don't do it just because I said so 😛 There's risks as with anything, but decent precautions and knowledge will get you through.

You need to be careful with all paints, frankly, try painting a car in a enclosed garage with enamel 😁

If you are happy with Arduino, have a look at ESP32, way more capable out the box, more IO and many more DA. WiFi, BT all built in the dev board.

2K is much harder than enamel... And much more resistant to things like brake fluid, something that may be needed on a LR!

Open loop.

Just turn off the closed loop control of idle, that'll sort the idle valve out, though most bouncing is due to fuel or ignition.

Go back to Nige, suspect you are just missing the map hose. I've never mucked with tps fuel/ignition maps, because they are primarily designed for race, not road cars.

I didn't realise you could have any discussion about something that looks like that, if course it is cool, and absolutely would daily. Has quite the 100" tomcat feel to it, with a smattering of ratrod.

Sequential or not depends on your wiring, though I suspect untimed, or banked injection is what you want. If you don't have a camshaft trigger, then it is banked. And yes, disable the closed loop idle, it will only serve to mess things up at this point, one for much later down the road. Your fueling seems very lean, what pump, regulator, injectors are you using? Have you changed the ecu mode to Map or still on tps?

As long as you don't start putting main beam and indicators switches on a touch screen I'm sure we'll still get along

Thing is you're not really talking about electrics, it's much more electronics / microcontrollers, and while I have no fear of those things (see my LGT digi dash), I simply can't see the benefit of having that much electronics controlling everything in the car. For a LR or any other classic car replacing a crumbling loom with a universal or even an auto sparks pre made loom is not at all difficult and should allow you to do everything 99.9% of what people want. That said, it's the 0.1% that change the world and it's obviously up to everyone to do what they want with their vehicles, so very good luck and all

Good luck with the installation! My only comment really is that every single plug will have crimped joints in it, so I would not worry too much if you can't get the re-pin kit, especially as you are going MS later and will likely need to do it again anyway... If only just for neatness or realising that there are better ways to do things!

If you have map, use it.

All MS can be used as tps or map, bit confused, the instructions must say something about this.

Watch the map, find where idle is, and set the fuel table to a fixed value around it, that should stop the hunting. Then tweak the new idle cells to a value that is not stinking rich, no missing etc. Confused why you say it is tps vs RPM, normally it is map up the left unless you want to run a race car..... Are you really running a provided map? MS2 fundamentals are the same as MS1, especially when talking fuel and spark, an engine is an engine after all, and only so many ways you can make it run well.