Bowie69

Are the abs lights on when you first turn the key? Or when moving off? The fluid level change is possibly the bomb, but I don't think it is indicative of the issue being shown by the lights. Have you connected the fluid level sensor? Is it functional?

I have two of these (for cabin and load areas) in LGT, and one used as a reversing light: White Rock Lights, YONEDA 4PODS Aluminum Housing IP68 Waterproof Pure White LED Rock Lights Underglow Fender Lights for Trucks, SUV, ATV, Offroad, Motorcycle : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive I may well add a second as reversing light as I'm often reversing up a dark driveway, but in reality they give good light for all of £4 each. They have curved rubber pads to mount easily to cage tube, and stainless bolts.

With a 2.8 and an auto with the torque converter I suspect it may not be as bad as it could sound.

Nicely deleted

Random photos alert!

Does this help? Top Disco, bottom Defender -which have you been looking at?

As you say, it is just a matter of who these days.

This makes me feel a whole lot better with LGTs policy, which when I took it out in the summer was £140 with no restrictions and minimal excess. The 'right side of 50', driving 30 years and 10+ NCB. There is little logic to it, it seems, perhaps my rural location helps.

Agreed! I mean more the obviously China branded ones like 'Good times tablet inc.' etc.

The Chinese Android tablets are great, as long as you don't intend on connecting them to the Internet or putting personal information on them.

19mm puts it very likely in the 330lb rating camp, see the OME springs table on red90.ca. So it has the van springs designed for the vehicle without the self leveller - which yours doesnt have, correct? A squirt of WD and a wipe often allows you to see a fleck or two of the colour coding on springs... Worth try?

How is the header tank bottom hose plumbed in?

Someone has been messing about, all the smaller fuses are 10s, not what it says on the cover they should be. I can't read what rating the blue one is, is that the 100A?

Where did the engine come from, what front cover do you have, what header tank are you using, and are you running a heater? A few pics would help massively.

You can use screw together AN fittings for brake lines, then you can make them at home without needing to crimp.

Yup, with worn piston skirts you start getting horrible slap as it rocks around on the gudgeon pin.

Ah I think the lower roofline makes it look that way.... The LCV2/3: https://www.aronline.co.uk/concepts-and-prototypes/land-rover-lcv23/

100"?

So.... Skim head Replace cam bearings Flex hone the bores (assuming within spec) New rings, bearings, gaskets and seals <£500? Would it last? No idea on the condition of the engine other than the cam bearing.

At low speed the difference is going to be negligible, the fan will cope no problem. Higher speed I can see it creating a low pressure area, but sadly no proof.

So are these sort of things: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284654293826?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=zvo3ICTKSoK&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=AFY_9vavSse&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

A bit like having a V8 and ensuring you only ever get 1/4 throttle 😛

I had 4 (now 5 after a new donation) of B&Q's finest Mac Allister 4.5" grinders that cost all of £30: Mac Allister 750W 240V 115mm Corded Angle grinder 2525 | DIY at B&Q Fitted with: 1mm slitting disc Flap wheel Wire cup brush Grinding disc Spare for anything! They all sit in large garden implement style hooks to the right of the metalwork bench, plugged into a 4-way, so always plugged in a within arms reach, but not in the way. Saves so much faffing about, and when one breaks it only costs you £30 to replace. They used to be £22, but inflation etc 😛 They have plenty of power at 750W, even for cup brushes/grinding discs, for the money you can't fault them. I have replaced 2 in maybe 10 years, though I'm only a hobbyist they have done a reasonable amount of work and tend to make rumbly bearing noises before they do eventually fail.

Correct, if you are the main user, you MUST be the policy holder or in an accident where you are travelling for work, for example, you could be uninsured. Then watch your premiums grow after that.

That's potty, completely. I would ring up a few proper brokers, NFU, Adrian Flus, Lancaster etc, none of the online quotes will do you any good at all. Then you can talk through the options and ways to reduce the premium, even have one of those tracker/dashcams may be a good idea for you. Are you rural or inner city Glasgow?