Bowie69

Just disable it for the mot, and fix it after the event.

Forget all that and fit a Lexus 1UZ-FE

If you are not hitting 100KPa then it could be that the airbox/filter is restricting things a little, I manage 98/99KPa, but blame that on the snorkel. Of course the other thing is a small variation in the MAP sensor, and not worry about it. As long as you tune to the signals received it should all work OK

Yes 17A is a common size cable for example, so of the circuit is wired with it and you run 20A through it without blowing the fuse, over time you will melt the wire... 15A is close enough to 17A to not cause you any problems, same for 10A and 12A.

Pretty sure you calibrate it to pulses per mile, a magnet and reed switch is all that's required, IIRC. However, a bit of searching found this: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/how-get-instant-fuel-consumption-megasquirt-5474.html No extra hardware required, and makes sense when you think about it, just a bit of jiggery pokery required

Sounds good, sorry I missed that bit from Ian above. That's some good stuff to know and for me to try for off-road too. I seem to remember that there was some way to get an instantaneous MPG from Tunerstudio/Megatune using a compatible vehicle speed sensor somehow, anyone played with this?

Neil, Those figures seem quite a jump, I would be smoothing the edges of the cruise 'box' and not going quite so high. You seem to have a bit of an odd spark map tbh, lots of advance at idle, and not as much as I expected at the top end, I've attached my spark map for comparison. Or is this because you are 4.6? My map for a 4.0 P38 engine, I think derived from Nige's Megajolt tune initally.

Some interesting/useful comparisons here: http://www.d-90.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26084 Shows the serp belt p/n.

90A normally.

Drill out the manifold and fit a new stud, much much cheaper than a new manifold.

Fine for carbs and lpg

Sounds like your kickdown cable has become detached to me, it's connected to the same place as the throttle cable. If it has, then you shouldn't really drive it as you will knacker the box very quickly. Sometimes they become detached inside the box, which is quite a bit of work to fix....

I'm guessing it's a rusty boot floor etc, but actually quite good value with all that kit in it.

Range Rover P38 had the compressor the other side! (Passenger)

Have you ever had a key that worked in the door, or just locked/unlocked by fob? It is normal that the ignition key will work the doors, but if it has had a new barrel they won't match, and not allow you to unlock the vehicle. Do you have a spare set of keys.... with a mystery key that doesn't appear to do anything...?

Did you select neutral before changing ratio?

Cool, good to know

Nah, flip the head upside down and push each valve in turn on a slim piece of wood to inspect them with a torch or bright lamp, job done If you did dismantle them, might be worth sticking a 3-angle seat cut on it, this helps a fair bit on the RV8

How much of the radiator surround are you cutting away? They are about 8" deep IIRC (looking at my LWT one atm) by moving the rad forward it must all squeeze in surely?

Aftermarket ones are ..... no lets be honest, pretty carp

Yep, 3.9 cam is good, but a new set of genuine followers is a must at the same time.

Doesn't the Fairey overflow into the transfer box if overfilled?

Yep, instant 20-30BHP just by dropping an EFI set on it, and that's without Megasquirt....

The later 4.6 heads come with the neoprene seals which by all accounts last really well, as Shelby said, nothing laps a valve in like hammering it against it's working surface repeatedly -like when the engine is running. Neoprene resists just abotu any chemical known to man The only time I would lap non-new vales in is if the seats/valves were pitted, but as above it depends what condition your heads are in.

1) Decide which set of rockers are best and use them on the 4.6 heads, keeping pushrods matched to the rockers. Definitely leave the tappets in place, as these are worn to the cam, putting mismatched ones in can munch through the camshaft very quickly. You may want to check the perload on the tappets as you are fitting a lower head, if too much then you fit shims under the rocker towers until correct. Google for this, it's described very well in many places. 2) You could open up the exhaust and inlet ports to match the gasket line, but even this is time consuming, will easily take you a day and a set of ringing ears. also remove any extra aluminium from the valve throats and feather it to the inlet tract (though this will require removing the valves....) Anything more than that is probably not worth it. 3) I don't see an issue here at all, just rinse well after as most cleaning chemicals (caustic!) like to eat aluminium slowly. 4) Sorry no, but the top end (inlet manifold etc) is a very straight forward swap, using the same bolts.