Bowie69

Personally I wouldn't go as far as remove the insulation/carpet from the tunnel, the wet rarely gets that far or causes a problem as the autobox heat is pretty good at drying it out. Remove the carpets by undoing the plastic screw things and lift out, cut the insulation along the edge of the tunnel (there is a natural fold line here and easily done with a stanley knife) and lift it out, stand it in front of the aga for a few days to dry thoroughly When cutting the insulation, be careful not to catch the EFI loom If you have permanently wet insulation/carpet then you either have a leaking heater, holes in the floor or a very wrong fascination with deep water -either way you should be able to keep it dry in there pretty easily Personally I just run with the carpet and no soundproofing nowadays, means when I do get sludge come in through the door it doesn't matter so much

On both my late 1990 and late 1991 RRCs the resistor was under the LH scuttle, prise out the traingles at the corner of the vent and then remove the grille, you should be able to see it just to the right of the hole (as you look at it). If it's not there then seems like Mr Bodgeroo has been in there, the plug you are looking for is the same colour as the one on the resistor, and can normally be found on top of the heater, which you can just about access by undoing most of the dash and lifting the top part to access it -with small hands that is I don't think that the plug you have there is the right one.... The other possibility is someone has shoved an older heater in there, anyone know of they fit?

Nige -expect to pay a lot more than that for a decent one, one of the big problems you have with LR drivetrain, especially diseasels is weight, and also reach. A 1 tonne crane may lift 1 tonne, but you'll find it limited to say 750Kg or less when the top arm is extended, still enough, but you are straining it unnecessarily. Now, with reach, I find it job to get enough reach with most hoists to allow you to balance an engine/box assembly, making things awkward/dangerous, get one with as long a reach as you can... I remember getting out (or putting in, I can't remember) Bish's 200TDI with him and the whole hoist just suddenly tipped forward and smacked Bish on the leg pretty badly IIRC, could have been a lot worse -might have cracked the sump I use one like this pretty often: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DRAPER-EXPERT-2-TONNE-FOLDING-ENGINE-CRANE-/390298306272?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5adf9786e0 In fact it looks a rebadged version of what I do use, but mine is red... enough reach, enough stability, and folds up really well into less than a filing cabinet sized square. on the floor. All the wheels are metal and the pump is a double acting cylinder for speed Really not sure how much you are willing to spend though

ABS axles have the sensor fitted through the top swivel pin, so the pin is different, plus the CV joint has teeth on it to trgger the ABS sensor. As far as I am aware, the calipers and discs are suitable for ABS and non-ABS operation, so basically you bolt them under the truck and run the pipes to the calipers as you would normally. The diff is identical between an ABS and non-ABS axle, unless one is imperial and one metric -which is another story I suspect you have a pair of Rangie Rover axles under there, from a late 80s/early 90s truck, which came equipped with ABS as standard.

This is about the most useful link you can get for the MOT test: http://www.transportoffice.gov.uk/crt/doitonline/bl/mottestingmanualsandguides/mottestingmanualsandguides.htm It's tha ACTUAL testing guide that the NT's bring up on their MOT computer system, so..... pretty accurate, and should always be up to date. Section 6.7 in the manual is titled: 6.7 Speedometer This inspection applies to Class 5 vehicles first used on or after 01 October 1937. A Tachograph is an acceptable alternative to a speedometer providing it satisfies the requirements of this inspection. As your truck will be a class 4 (or 7 from 2012) the speedo is not tested.

Well they have a bigger one than me then....

That'll be Jenolite

Nothing other than make sure it is REALLY dry before reassembly, sounds like you may have left a touch of moisture in there after the last clean out, and the vapour has caused some surface rust. Either that or something was leaking in when you went wading, but not sure whether you did silly stuff like that or not

Yes, my example was giving a possible situation it could happen in... as roundabouts (and leaning in corners/rough ground generally) tend to make the body flex, and you tend to lean into the door for support when the vehicle is leaning.

Have your doors flopped open when going round a roundabout like a chav? If not, then no

Cheers Si, I promise to put it to good use very soon! Got a cage to modify, and a cage to help build very shortly Pete.

Forget the copper/hide mallet, get alump hammer on it, the steel is VERY hard here, you may mark it, but you won't break it.... If you can find some way of holding the shaft tight all the better, you kind of need to 'shock' the clip out the groove.

Or just move the chassis mounts back.... The restriction is more in the axles radius arm bushes, I doubt extending the arms will make a lot of difference

Pretty sure that's the lock-out solenoid, and it needs removing... did it come out of an auto?

Ashcroft have a list based on serial number: http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=45 Your serial (28D334601E) leads you to a 28D = 1.222 Assuming someone hasn't put 1.4 gears in it of course.... Normally an LT230 has a red/black sticker on it with the ratio, but I guess you haven't got this as you found the serial number, just not the sticker As it is a manual you can basically fit whatever year LT230 you like to it, as above, and as you are only on 235/85 tyres a 1.222 ratio one will do fine, if you were on 33" or above then a 1.4 may be best -but sounds like you will have a hard time getting over there...

In a T-piece where the oil pressure switch fits

Just glad to help

Yes! Didn't want to point out the obvious and make you feel a bit silly, but really hope it is the problem and you get it sorted

You have put a socket or something over the end so the bush isn't bearing on the bolt head/nut of the bolt, haven't you?

Jason, Very envious of what you have built and the adventures you are going to have with that, very nice job, and have a good'un! Pete.

Yes, the shackle will bear on the chassis, the whole reason for having a bush in the first place

I too use a garden sprayer, rather slow.... but works. One day I will make a faster one with a tyre valve, pressure bottle and a pickup tube, and connect it to my compressor, pretty simple I guess There's one for sale on here you may know a bit about? http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=70018

I expect the tramlining effect on motorways to be much worse with just 2 fitted -like having a trailer which is a different track width to the tow vehicle. Personally I would just get some decent wheels with a suitable offset and not bother with spacers at all.

Any battery should be able to start the V8, they aren't particularly picky or hard to turn over.... what I am going to ask is how you are connecting the jump pack/other car to it? If positive to the battery, and negative to the engine/chassis then you could well have a duff earth strap -in fact you could still have a duff earth strap causing the problem. Put your battery on charge over night and see if it starts it then, if not, start hunting for bad/loose wiring.

Try a 2.5 petrol(maybe diesel as well.... don't know) 90/110, as these air boxes are about 5 inches shorter than the Disco box, which wouldn't fit my Lightweight.... pics here: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=69833&view=findpost&p=597456