Bowie69

Wheel arch cover of the road wheel is NOT a testable item, therefore it cannot fail for having it's wheels sticking out the arches. The requirement for adequate wheel arches is from Construction and Use regulations, in other words you can get nicked for it.

A lot of people buy genuine, because Britpart and others are often so unreliable/faulty on arrival!

I'd suspect a whole second hand axle will be cheaper than new hub, swivel and associated bearings and seals, find a good one and could save you a load of cash. Swapping is fewer bolts than you might imagine, just helps to have a strong mate around when you do it

Not the only one! Good luck with the mill, Charles

Diameter not radius!

So it seems I am alone on here I think it's pretty much released now, DIYAUTOTUNE have the GPIO board + kits availabel now for a couple of types of transmission, but it will not be restricted to the just the GM boxes, for instance there are people already running the ZF HP24 with one From what I can read there's two ways to go about it, one with MS2 controlling the engine, and that provides information to the over the CAN bus to the GPIO board such as engine speed, TPS, MAP etc, and then the GPIO board works it all out and switches on/off various solenoids on the auto box. The second way is making it a standalone gearbox controller, feed it a MAP or TPS signal and an engine RPM and it calculates everything as to what gear it should be in and whether lockup should be engaged etc, spitting it out to the solenoids. We'd be going the standalone route, as the Lex V8 is currently running MS1v3 and not likely to change When I find a bit more on this I'll update it, just trying to find it is quite hard at the moment...

Yes, it's an open source transmission controller

Anyone got any experience with Megashift here? Just starting to do some reading up on it to potentialy Megashift a Lexus autobox, I am pretty sure it can be done, just wanted to know of any feedback etc from people that have done it before, even if not a Lex box Cheers, Pete.

If it's slack, it's probably siezed in a permanent kickdown situation, hence the 4K rpm before changing up. You may be able to free it up, but the best way is to replace it, and make sure it is routed far from any exhaust heat, which can be a killer for cables like these. Changing it is a bit of a bugger from memory, not having done it, but I have read about it, you need to drop the auto box sump and remove some gubbins to get to it. Here's something on it: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=42791

Umm, it may be a NZ speciality, but I've not seen a rear air con unit in a Disco before... got any pics?

Hmmm, Hydroflouric acid Ouch

Love to see what the salisbury axle brackets look like, maybe the 110FC had front/rear shock? or..... Is it a Rangie chassis?

Stripped mine recently, very simple inside, and the gearbox end was still very well sealed, no corrosion at all, which is not what can be said for the Bowmotor on the other end :x The brake is serviceable by just removing 3 screws IIRC, then the cone comes off and you can inspect the pads/surfaces etc, delving in further give you the gearbox two halves and three stage planetry gearbox, which can only go back in one way, so no problem at all really. Silicon afterwards to re-seal, and a smear of grease on the drum end plate seals before reassembly.

Here? http://www.landroveraddict.com/

Thanks for your posts Ian, much appreciated!

Britcar doesn't seem to think it is obsolete, only DAM3653L: http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php?xProd=78428&xSec=5497 Have you run Land Rover up and asked for one? Probably the fastest on this situation as that's where you are likely to get it from in the end...

No, it won't work, that's what David Bowyer's turbo box of tricks does, but is only for short periods as you don't get any charge to one of the batteries whilst in use. The easiest and best way to get 24V on a 90 is to run a 24V alternator and either a pair of 12V batteries or one 24V battery. I say best, this is assuming that the compressor you are looking at using will draw some serious amps making 12V-24V step up adapter inviable. What sort of out put is this compressor then? Unless it is anything out of the ordinary I doubt it is worth the whole 24V conversion thing.... I have the most recent T-Max compressor and will inflate a 33" tyre from dead flat to 25PSI in 2 minutes... I am going to use this for the basis of an onboard air system very soon -don't be fooled by the picture, it draws 45 amps when running! http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/T-Max-4x4-12v-160L-Heavy-Duty-Portable-Tyre-Compressor-/120704323453?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c1a89cf7d For solenoids, look at the spares for the Ashcroft locker (Devon4x4 do them for example), they are much much better value than the ARB ones.

Not if you still use the LT230 Personally I would go with the BW box though.

If you're going for road use, why not just use an RR/Disco autobox? Bolts straight up, less tiring to drive, smoother for all concerned

I would.... Clearly if you ever had the diff pan off for another reason check it out, but wouldn't go to the bother just for a small amount of crud.

Yes, you're wrong 10/30 is the viscosity of the oil, it does determine the range you should use it in, but the numbers bear no relation to the temperature in celcius Good reading here: http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/ and Wiki on the subject : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil#Grades It shouldn't matter in all honesty.... Have fun

Hmm, if you geared the motor output down sufficiently, you could use a normal pot. Alternatively, have you thought about the slider pots? Connect it to the piston of the input cylinder, upgrade the output stage on the servo and bingo? Plenty here(if the link works): http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=retrieveTfg&Ns=stockPolicy_uk%7c1%7c%7cnew_uk%7c1&Ne=4294922322&Nr=AND%28avl%3auk%2csearchDiscon_uk%3aN%29&N=4294611870+4294920016&multiselectParam=4294611870&selectSubRange=Slide,%20Slidetrack%20and%20Faders#breadCrumb Just match the value with what you take off.

I suspect what you pulled out of the breather was a combination of condensation, oil and small bits of rust from the condensation. I doubt that the rest of the axle tube is in a similar state -all breathers get blocked with gunk over time, and it looks pretty horrible, fortunately it mostly stays at the top of the axle and is small in amounts Sounds like you are on about a Salisbury axle, in which case yes removing the pan is as easy as it looks, and RTV will do a good job of sealing it up afterwards. Whether I would bother is another matter entirely

Don't do what I did the other day either... tight spot, grinder firmly in one hand, loosely in the other, some how the blade caught and I just nicked one thumb, was just a clean bit of skin with a slight groove, no blood, but the shock made me flick the grinder off very quickly and shift from one hand to the other, meaning I carved a slot in my thumb down to the squishy red stuff as the disc ran down Lucky I didn't do it badly to both hands, would have looked a right numpty with both thumbs in bandage

Good fingers plus nose, don't forget