Bowie69

Right, so go find out how to do a PAS conversion by trying it, but ring your insurance company before, as it will be a modification.

Or what if you go and try it yourself? No-one here seems to have the answers to your specific questions, Fridge put it well when he said about going round old sodbury or trawling ebay for cheap parts and just giving it a go -that's where real knowledge comes from. And yes, posting back if you succeed is a great idea, otherwise forums would be full useless questions and no answers!

Ah... my mate got diddled by these people.... He bought a pair of Toyota Land Cruiser LJ70 axles and a set of wheels to fit onto them. When home I checked them over and one was an RRC front axle! Ring them up "Don't know how that happened, will get it swapped over for you." Months passed, dozens of phone calls, still no swapped axle. Ring them a final time "Gonna bring the axles back to you, they aren't what I wanted." "Well you can, but you'll only get £30 for it, that's one axle, and the other one was supplied correctly, so we aren't refunding that." "£30? WTF?" "Yeah, check your receipt." Sure enough on the receipt the axles were listed at £30 each and the wheels for £240. As the wheels were supplied correctly they refused a refund, cue my mate being seriously out of pocket -fuel to drop one axle off would have cost more than the £30 he was going to collect

Ford EDIS coil pack, 99p inc postage!

Nothing really except make sure the lambda is warmed up and producing a sensible voltage before you start auto tune

Fridge, When designing my own cage for my RRC I took a look at the Safety Devices site for inspiration.... what I found was PDFs of their designs available for download, which REALLY helped in making decisions. For your truck the 110 catalogue seems to give the best options: http://www.safetydevices.com/images/products/4x4/2008%20catalogue%20-%20defender110.pdf You can probably tell just by looking the NAS spec ones are next to useless, but the other MSA ones are of course very good.... A full external version of RBL183 7SSS or a mix of internal and external should give what you want HTH!

Sorry this may not be 100% helpful, but have you tried TunerStudio MS? It'll do all the tuning on the fly rather than having to log, open in MLV, then save, then burn all the time. Megatune and MLV are becoming somewhat outdated now, TunerStudio MS is written by the same guy that wrote MLV too, so you know it's gonna be good

Check the lobes on the dizzy cam, and look for play in the dizzy shaft, reset the points gap at the same time -if they are at all pitted, change them for quality items (not from local motor factor!) as well as the condenser.

The only reason they didn't get finished is because of the owner, not the kit....

Reminds me a bit of Richard Hammond's creation on Top Gear, but the difference is this one works, and I am very impressed with it, well done! If you ever decided to sell (unlikely I reckon) then I'd be first in line.

Don't think it ever got completed, shame, it would have been a nice little project.

No typo..... £1000/ton is the correct price........ Ten kilo alloy wheel = £10.

Yep, one of these Accords: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Honda_Accord_rear_20080205.jpg You can see the similarities I am sure!

Someone tried to get the shell off piste so tehy could weigh it in, and the ali bits (yes its an LT230 coverplate) came off when they failed first method, as it's very valuable (£1000/ton or thereabouts).

AWP, try loosening your kickdown cable a touch, could be that it's not locking up due to this.

It would eliminate any air getting into the system via drainback to the tank overnight, by all means stick an inline filter on the pipe if you are worried about debris

Will, The 1991ish plastic tanked RRCs used quite a large fuel pump arrangment with integral swirl pot type thing, as shown on the RH side of the of Task's picture, the fuel return also feeds into this pot meaning you'll almost always have fuel supplied to the pump no matter what angle/G you are pulling. I have one on the bench here with the fuel pump removed, and by extending the fuel pump hose to the bottom it would make a good system. As you say though, the tank mountings may well be different.... which kinda scuppers the plans a little-the plastic tanked Rangies were high-filler, yours is of course low, and I am unsure if you could connect it all up....? The earlier EFI pumps were much smaller, with no swirl pot, and no integral sender. If you want a plastic tank just drop me a line, I have one sitting in the garden with a new (EFI) fuel pump in it.... and the associated OE tank guard. What size hole do you have in the top of your tank at the moment?

It may be easy-ish, but it is by far not the easiest route. The easiest route is to Lexus Soarer V8, Lexus Soarer ECU, surf autobox tail housing fitted to the Lexus autobox (getting this to fit up takes about 2 hours, tops), Surf transfer box. The V8 with the autobox attached is pretty long, in fact in the Rocsta we are having to stretch the wheelbase to ~93" just to get it all in, if you made the transfer box a remote LT230 it wouldn't fit in a 90 for sure. The other problem with making it longer is the sump position, the LS400 has a front sump, the Soarer a rear sump, so unless you like fabricating your own sumps you will do well to keep the engine back in the chassis as far as possible -this won't happen if you use a remote transfer box. Sump + axle pumpkin = dead engine! Nicks90, you are probably completely correct, TBH, I ahve probably forgotten as much as I know about gearbox options for the Lex, though I do remember the Cruiser boxes being prohibitively expensive, and this is supposed to be costing less than £3K to put together Is this an offset rear transfer case then, rather than centre? *EDIT* Done a bit of looking, the Cruiser box is full time 4x4, with a centre diff, this makes the transfer case even longer, and less suitable for our purpose. The other thing is the 4.5l engine is a straight 6, the V8 is much revvier than this, so the change points may well be completely wrong for it..... besides, the Toyota ECU is in one box, for both the engine and transmission, so you'd be Megashifting it to get it to run at all. The 4.7V8 box may be an option, but the above length issue negates it in our opinion. That and the fact they were only available in the US.... The 4.5l is different again, and has a centre rear output: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2004-Toyota-Land-Cruiser-Gearbox-4-5LTR-Petrol-AUTO-/320642559181?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4aa7c92ccd

Good news The other trick is a match or a lighter and watch where the flame gets drawn to, clearly when there are no fuel leaks

Yes, I believe they will fit to, they are the A343 boxes IIRC, you can swap the bellhousing over from the lexus box to the Cruiser box.... I am pretty sure anyways -be worth your while researching Of course the change points may be completely off as with the surf box, being a diesel. lextreme.com is a great place to start, but google is really good at pulling stuff out on this, also check the Aus forums as they do loads of these conversions to things like hiluxes and Cruisers of various series.

Have you run it from a jerry can with new hose straight to the injection pump?

Yes, you can, Devon 4x4 can sell you a modified centre to do it for £130 ish IIRC, in fact there's a thread on their forum about it right now.

It is more complicated, basically it's a PWM valve to regulate the line pressure of the box. Perfectly possible as this is how the GM boxes work that have already been MShift'd, just if you get it very wrong you scrap your box due to insufficient tension on the brake bands... Also, there is a possibility to use a Jeep tailhousing and transfer box (you have options of the Atlas and NP.... something box then) though I've not gone into as much detail -more suited to the yank market I guess. The box is an Aisin-Warner AW4 IIRC (Lexus call is an A340), which is used by a few different people, Toyota, Volvo and Jeep spring to mind One other option you have is to Megasquirt the Lexus V8, swap the V8's autobox bell housing to the surf auto box and transfer all the Surf gearbox ECU and wiring to your truck. I don't know how easy this is to wire up, but is of course possible, and uses a separate ECU from the engine ECU... The gearbox is not as strong however, and the gear changes are unlikely to be ideal due to the surf being a diesel. Having said that there have been a good number of successful conversion using this method, just not as many as swapping the whole lot over

I am in the process of helping a mate stick an LS400 lump in a Rocsta... so know a bit about these There's a couple of ways to go about it... Firstly, run the Lexus V8 using Megasquirt and stick a.n.other gearbox on the back of it, there are adapters out there for other Toyota manual transmissions, I'm not aware of any auto conversion plates/bellhousings to Land Rover. Second, run the Lexus V8 on the stock ECU and stick a.n.other gearbox on the back, same options as above. If you wired in the check light on the ECU then you would get an error, but other than that the engine runs perfectly OK attached to a manual box. Third, run the Lexus V8 on the stock ECU, connect it to the Lexus V8 autobox which you can convert to 4wd by swapping the tailhousing from a 90's Toyota Surf auto and bolt the Surf's transfer case onto the back of it. This produces a small issue in that the rear output flange is central, rather than offset like a standard LR one, but if you're running this kinda power, upgrading to Hilux, or Patrol axles which have centre rear diff would be a good option over the stock Rover stuff.... Fourth, Run the Lexus V8 using Megasquirt 2, stick the Lexus autobox on the back of it with 4WD conversion, then get a GPIO board using Megashift to control the autobox changes, lockup and 4WD selection. Ultimate control, probably set you back best pat of £500 all said and done. Couple of notes.... the Lexus ECU is very easy to wire up, 6 wires or something to get it running, so certainly an option if you're not up to the armpits every weekend. Some of the electronics are a bit fragile, so I can see where you are coming from with Megasquirt. Squirting the lump is probably just as easy as doing a Rover V8, in fact the first start on a recent squirting of a 1UZ-FE was using a Rover map, which was all I had to hand Making the trigger wheel is a piece of cake, you adapt the existing 12-point crank trigger wheel with a 100mm 36-1 wheel and bolt it on. A Ford EDIS VR sensor bolts into the existing VR sensor hole and it's all protected from tree roots and branches -MUCH better than any rover installation I have seen. There's two sorts of autboxes attached to the 1UZ-FE, one has an electronic control of line pressure, and one is mechanical (although both use solenoids for gearchanges), the one you want to go for is a Lexus/Toyota Soarer/SC400 rather than the Lexus LS400, which has the electronics control. (more work to get Megashift working). BTW, I wouldn't even think of putting a ZF4 HP22 behind one of these, the engines kick out 250BHP/260lbs/ft and don't redline to 7000rpm+ which is more than I would be comfortable doing.... Make sure it will all fit in too, it makes for quite a long lump, engine, transmission and transfer box... should all JUST fit in a 93.9" If you want to see a lashed up Lexus V8 on MS, here it is: http://forums.lr4x4....showtopic=67238 Hope that helps a bit!

Should fit yes, whether identical or not I couldn't say.