Bowie69

Which can be up to two days out of date!

Up to you really, a 1.6 t-case will drop the ratio nicely for you, but so will different R&P, and include dropping the low range at the same time. I agree I would probably go with diffs next time, but I wanted to kill a few birds with one stone, X-brake, ratio change and guaranteed diff lock -it works well for me on and off road. Give ashcrofts a ring and spend £500+ or swap out your t-case for second hand one £100, up to you

No chance, got far to much else on my plate -like bobtailing

Just had another thought, maybe it is LH drive vehicles that have it that high, to clear the steering bar/relay -couldn't see anything in my parts book though....

I have the Lightweight parts book, but nothing listed for a bracket to hold an alternator that high up the block -I think it's probably a custom made jobbie... all the brackets I can see are mounting the alternator much lower down. The giveaway is (I think...) that the pulley is clearly a twin, which was only fitted to the 24V FFR vehicles, and the alternator was the other side of the engine, and the above 12V alternator is running a twin pulley setup -smacks of a conversion to me. In fact, looking close, you can see the replacement came with a single pulley, whereas the original had a twin:

Yep ^^ Also, why is brake bias such an issue? There are adjustable valves readily available for this purpose, OK you would probably need 3 of them, but it would work

Nah, why PM, much better for all to see Before the floor going in: After, note the black silicon along the back edge, kept all the muck out quite nicely, and came apart OK as it didn't adhere too well to the deliberately slightly dusty underseal on the underside of the ali floor:

As it seems to be a recurring problem, I would suggest that you may well have a bearing issue, allowing the CV joint to move, and therefore push the sensor out and away from the trigger wheel, causing your problems.

How big is the battery, in Ah?

I seem to remember, in an automotive situation, a battery won't take more than about 25A charge, but as above, that will still need the engine above tickover, maybe a brick on the throttle gently to bring up to around 12-1300rpm and it will make a big difference. It won't wreck the battery what you are proposing, think about most short-ish car journeys.... they describe exactly what you propose. 4 days, 48 max before recharge.... 1 charge I'd just monitor the battery level and then charge as and when it needs be. Try and conserve power as well of course

Strange, that Yota V8 has the same firing order as a RV8 I still think, at idle, which is ~ 10 BTDC anyways, it shouldn't sound like that. It takes 5 minutes to check the plug leads are in the right place, I would do that first if I were you....

Well the sound proofing will make the biggest difference anyways, a real sponge Think you may need to loosen the aluminium strip in the door opening as well...? If not there is supposed to be two retainers in there...

For that I used copious quatities of black silicon sealant, seems to have done the job nicely, I took the floor out recently and it had sealed really well. Any builders silicon would do nicely.

Sounds to me like either your timing is WAY off or you have some plug leads the wrong way round, V8s sound nice even with open headers, I was filming this one, on MSnEDIS, for example:

Glad to hear you got it running! Sorry, but what are you trying to do with the TPS?

Is there adjustment on the actuating rod? I know there on Series vehicles, and this is pretty critical to getting the pedal to feel right.

Agreed, but with a V8, and an autobox, off road low ratio is far less important than a stinky diesel and a manual box -IMHO.

My RRC's tacho is ~ 300rpm out (too low)compared to the data displayed in MegaTune, which can only really be correct. Speedo is pretty accurate now I have 33" tyres on it For 35" tyres and an autobox I would be going for a 1.66 ratio transfer box, it's really quite important that an auto has the correct gearing to get the changes and lockup in the right place for on-road driving, 1.4 is just about perfect on 33s, 1.6 on 35s would be the same by my reckoning.

Drivers footwell can get water from the heater, depends which end is leaking -the pipes or the matrix. Normally though I would point the finger at porous metal in the footwell somewhere -near the mud flap brackets is a favourite. The plastic things that hold the carpet in are just on the back edge of the mats, very close to the seat base, pretty sure they are the same as in the back, but I can't look as I don't have any in there any more!

Personally I wouldn't go as far as remove the insulation/carpet from the tunnel, the wet rarely gets that far or causes a problem as the autobox heat is pretty good at drying it out. Remove the carpets by undoing the plastic screw things and lift out, cut the insulation along the edge of the tunnel (there is a natural fold line here and easily done with a stanley knife) and lift it out, stand it in front of the aga for a few days to dry thoroughly When cutting the insulation, be careful not to catch the EFI loom If you have permanently wet insulation/carpet then you either have a leaking heater, holes in the floor or a very wrong fascination with deep water -either way you should be able to keep it dry in there pretty easily Personally I just run with the carpet and no soundproofing nowadays, means when I do get sludge come in through the door it doesn't matter so much

On both my late 1990 and late 1991 RRCs the resistor was under the LH scuttle, prise out the traingles at the corner of the vent and then remove the grille, you should be able to see it just to the right of the hole (as you look at it). If it's not there then seems like Mr Bodgeroo has been in there, the plug you are looking for is the same colour as the one on the resistor, and can normally be found on top of the heater, which you can just about access by undoing most of the dash and lifting the top part to access it -with small hands that is I don't think that the plug you have there is the right one.... The other possibility is someone has shoved an older heater in there, anyone know of they fit?

Nige -expect to pay a lot more than that for a decent one, one of the big problems you have with LR drivetrain, especially diseasels is weight, and also reach. A 1 tonne crane may lift 1 tonne, but you'll find it limited to say 750Kg or less when the top arm is extended, still enough, but you are straining it unnecessarily. Now, with reach, I find it job to get enough reach with most hoists to allow you to balance an engine/box assembly, making things awkward/dangerous, get one with as long a reach as you can... I remember getting out (or putting in, I can't remember) Bish's 200TDI with him and the whole hoist just suddenly tipped forward and smacked Bish on the leg pretty badly IIRC, could have been a lot worse -might have cracked the sump I use one like this pretty often: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DRAPER-EXPERT-2-TONNE-FOLDING-ENGINE-CRANE-/390298306272?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5adf9786e0 In fact it looks a rebadged version of what I do use, but mine is red... enough reach, enough stability, and folds up really well into less than a filing cabinet sized square. on the floor. All the wheels are metal and the pump is a double acting cylinder for speed Really not sure how much you are willing to spend though

ABS axles have the sensor fitted through the top swivel pin, so the pin is different, plus the CV joint has teeth on it to trgger the ABS sensor. As far as I am aware, the calipers and discs are suitable for ABS and non-ABS operation, so basically you bolt them under the truck and run the pipes to the calipers as you would normally. The diff is identical between an ABS and non-ABS axle, unless one is imperial and one metric -which is another story I suspect you have a pair of Rangie Rover axles under there, from a late 80s/early 90s truck, which came equipped with ABS as standard.

This is about the most useful link you can get for the MOT test: http://www.transportoffice.gov.uk/crt/doitonline/bl/mottestingmanualsandguides/mottestingmanualsandguides.htm It's tha ACTUAL testing guide that the NT's bring up on their MOT computer system, so..... pretty accurate, and should always be up to date. Section 6.7 in the manual is titled: 6.7 Speedometer This inspection applies to Class 5 vehicles first used on or after 01 October 1937. A Tachograph is an acceptable alternative to a speedometer providing it satisfies the requirements of this inspection. As your truck will be a class 4 (or 7 from 2012) the speedo is not tested.

Well they have a bigger one than me then....