Bowie69

Car diffs tend to be quite a reduction, from around 3 to 6 to 1 on average, however with one side held the other output will run at twice the 'normal' speed, so a 4:1 will act like a 2:1, run the diff backwards (i.e. put the power in through the halfshaft and out the prop flange) and it should work as a 1:2.... I think I am right in this, someone (I hope) will confirm in a minute I've no guarantees on the reliability of the above, as the diff is effectively working in 'coast' mode the whole time, however given the small amount of power/torque you are looking at using it may be OK for a long while. As for small cars, think Austin A35, Morris Minor, Marina, Chevette, Suzuki SJ's, in fact small 4x4's could be a very good/cheap source. There are also other options, self-contained diffs, like 4 wheel drive road cars, and some rear drive cars like the Rover P6, Jags, Impreza, Audi Quattro's of all flavours (80,90, 100 etc) Any clues as to what the project is?

You know the MOT inspection manual is availabel online nowadays? http://www.motinfo.gov.uk/htdocs/m4s01000701.htm No RFR as far as I can see.

Ah

Thanks Roary, very sad if true, but it's not entirely unexpected that someone has got seriously hurt there

No, they are hydraulic pumps, pressurising half of a nitrogen sphere, wasn't going anywhere with it, just saying RRC has the same setup as P38, in fact the pump/sphere is interchangeable

Simon, how about making the splines keyed, so it won't lock immediately, only once the vehicle is level. Should just be a case of filling in one spline and fettling the freewheel hub....? RRC is a boosted circuit too, but as most have proper engines (V8) a vacuum take off shouldn't be a problem.

If it fails, is it possible it fails in a very flexed mode? I.e. like when an ARB flips? Only ask as I understand it works on a spline.

They'll be fine

We are talking trailing arms, and drawing a comparison to the recovery point execution and fabrication, which is frankly unsafe. I agree, original ones can snap, but you won't end up in jail if they do, however if something you bolted to your truck failed and was not fit for purpose YOU will go to jail. Search Nigel Gresham if you need to be reminded of how badly it can go wrong.

Exactly, Retro.

I VERY STRONGLY disagree, see my comments above, and search the forum for more comments on them from me. If you have ANY doubt about the trailing arms, look at the recovery point, do you SERIOUSLY think this is well designed or executed? As an example of the engineering knowledge and execution I would not be bolting anything from Tarantula 4x4 to my truck. Just think, when you brake hard, where the forces are in that trailing arm... and the fact that the welded in bolt came loose and then tapped out on one of mine just by doing the nyloc up, and what would have happened braking hard say from 70mph.... at best you probably roll the truck, worse you kill yourself and or someone else. Truly not worth taking the risk!

Yes, they were horrid on the pair supplied to me, the bolt welded into the end started to twist when I hit the nylon in the nyloc..... the other one came out with a couple of blows with a lump hammer..... The welds were totally inadequate TBH , and having looked at his site in the past the designs and execution still leave a lot to be desired....

You'd normally connect the earth to one of the starter motor bolts, all the others you have marked on your diagram are not big enough or serve a higher purpose, like holding springs in or being the positive terminal! This is the ideal place, however as long as you have it well attached it should make little difference, and personally I would earth it straight to the battery, that way you have less potential connection problems due to corrosion.

You should have no reason to limit the axle articulation even with standard props.

They are more than likely Renault/Peugeot parts, discussed here: http://forums.lr4x4....=1

Bish's fab fabbed up rear winch setup is here: http://forums.lr4x4....=1 His winch was mounted right behind the bulkhead (between the roll hoop mounts actually), easy reach for freespool/watching rope being spooled back in :)Actuially, you can see the winch in his for sale post: http://forums.lr4x4....opic=53877&st=0 Oh, and the search revealed the mounting plate too: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=37288&st=0&p=358000&hl=fairlead&fromsearch=1entry358000

Remember, you can't change the transfer box end bolts without removing the drive flange, so you will probably only need 8 bolts but 16 nuts. Most places allow you to order them separately.

It should lock up, I have driven my Borg Warner box breifly with no front prop on and had no problem getting drive -only for a couple of hundreds meters of course They normally failed locked, but can fail open, which may have happened here. The other option is that if the rear prop *IS* turning, you have a snapped halfshaft/blown diff in the rear axle -engage drive and get a mate to check underneath to see if the prop is spinning.

Same size, but if they have been there a while it's worth replacing, especially the nyloc nuts, which are officially single use only...

Good news Max Yep, moral of the story is that LRs rarely have just one thing wrong with them

You got new nuts and bolts?

The problem is, the wire is clipped in place under the dash, so rather hard to pull it through, especially as the plug is pretty big as well, I tried, dailed and then pulled the dash apart!

The connector, with that plate removed, I still had to remove the dash....

It's not there though, you need to dismantle the dash!

Ah yes.... was with him on a Drive Round Day at Bamptom before Christmas, when he blew a CV