Bowie69

My current Rangie with front mud flaps: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=23250&st=0 Doesn't look like that anymore though http://www.thebowaters.co.uk/landrover/rangerover/rally2010/IMAG0194.jpg So unfortunately no mudflap brackets

A mate went through all this, Paypal went his way in the end as the user did not provide a tracking number to Paypal within 7 days.... so they sent my mate back his cash, which was nice I'd talk to paypal about it.... they are surprisingly good tbh.

Louis Spence?

Buy 5 litres of anything, often the same price or less than 3 litre bottles of a.n.other oil. As Les says, it should MTF94, not Dexron II.

Go to your local motor factor (NOT Halfrauds, they may have them, but be rather pricey) they should keep deep impact sockets on the shelf if they are any good.

<slap awaiting mode>Are you gonna clean that plenum or not bother?</slap awaiting mode> Looking good Nige, I bet after all this time you really do need to hear it run very soon.... Hmmm, thought about making the airbox thingumy out of clear perspex...? Nothing like looking at three chokes opening all at the same time

Erm, http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=36599 http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=66534 and http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=64867 Love the addition of the Google search button to the forum, GJ Mods/admins

I was just coming here to post that, the old BL size is indeed 1" 5/16 Same for A-series, B-series and various other motors, I have a socket this size, just not anything like deep enough...

I've done a few Dana xx axles which are very similar, with no issues, aside from needing a couple of long lever bars to pull the crownwheel assembly out, and a ferking big hammer to get the pinion out

I wouldn't bother, I tried them on my oil cooler and they wept quite well, got them swaged on after a while, but then I just used them to get the truck running Setting, for me, was putting the pincers in the vice, was the only way I got enough force to crimp them down properly. Yes they are easily removed, cut vertically through the ear and they fall off. They are pretty intolerant of pipe size, I don't remember too well, but the range was something like 16-19mm, i.e. small compared to hose clips. Personally I would invest in some stainless hose clips and not have to do it again

One cm? Wow, you got a good one!

Buy the correct socket

Looks like a slightly broken(one ear missing) crank handle thingy Land Rovers easy to work on........? I could get the engine out of my MKI Fiesta in 45 mins, and that was doing the job properly.... no gas axe involved!

One of the Durite weatherproof connectors on this page is pretty much ideal, they come in a 4-pin version... £5.52, but worth it http://www.vehicle-w...iconnectors.php

Yummy, 320BHP straight six, whining supercharger.... a mate had one of the first XJRs, very very quick in a car weighing ~2.5 tons, would be pretty scary in a LR!

You'll need to make the input shaft turn to engage the splines, this is normally the issue with getting boxes to mate up. To do this, engage a gear in both boxes (if you have the t-box installed as well) and rotate the output shaft whilst pushing the gearbox into the engine.

Yes to a thermostat, but no, personally I wouldn't run it all the way to the back, especially as you are running 20w50 oil, it's unnecessary strain on the pump if you ask me. A nice big one where the rad used to be would be ideal (assuming you are moving the rad to the back).

Normal procedure for me is slow right down, slip auto box into neutral, at walking pace slip transfer lever into neutral then whilst still rolling very slightly, push transfer box into gear. Yes it graunches, but that's life No need to rev engine or have main box in D whilst doing this.

Are you putting it in neutral/park when shifting to low/high? Are you sure you haven't broken a half shaft or got adragging brake? I don't think a broken transfer case will give you the symptoms you describe...

Agreed, but imagine running at fuill revs and full torque with no ram air cooling.

Same as what was there before And yes, solder it ya lazy git

I use Megasquirt to control the fans on my rangie, I run an 82c stat, fans on at 85, off at 83. If I change the temps MS switches at to say 95/92 , that has now defined the temp the engine will run at, not the stat, although it will take longer to warm up between 82 and 95. This is discounting the effects of RAM air on a cruising vehicle, which could potentially cool the engine down to stat temperature. So yes he is right, for a hard working engine, but not for cruise.

Make sure headlights are not on main beam..... and then try running a new wire to the switch.

Does it matter what size the bottom pulley is? Maybe the Ali one is because the engine was designed to run at high revs a lot, and therefore a smaller pulley = lower ancillary speed.....?

Nigella, I am looking at that and am pretty sure it is an earlier P38 4.0 cover, (maybe 4.6, I am only going by my referencing the build pics from my own V8, which is not currently outside my house...), the oil filter points straight down, which in turn means it will get clouted by the diff pumpkin -I assume you are going to be running a remote oil filter anyways I just checked outside in the box of bits which was my old V8 (vee-belt) and the timing cover is pretty much what you pictured as the 'deep' one, just less a dizzy hole. I think this must be a difference between the 3.9 and 4.0 serp engines.... The crank pulley on mine is also very short, I think they must have had issues squeezing it into the P38 engine bay....