Bowie69

Weston is a no-no, TBH, I don't know of anywhere you can

Reminded me of this:

Sounds like you want a VSS in there then, to stop you flattening the battery so much.

I think that's the whole point of an anti-roll bar, isn't it? The point of this one is it is quick release for when you go off road, allowing soft springs for off road but good body control when on. I am sure it is all in the X-Eng literature if you read it

It'll be the torque that kills the gearbox, not the BHP....

Yes, I bought rims and tyres from D4x4, and they offered to stick the beads in when they fitted them up. So... balancing....? Very very good, virtually no wheel wobble at all even up to 90mph on a private runway That is 33x10.5x16s Simex JT2s on 16x8 steel mods. One bad experience, soon after fitting them, I went off road and aired the tyres down to about 15 PSI, then all 4 of the valves started leaking air quite quickly, I assumed a bad batch of valves and found a local garage willing to sell me 4 new valves and I set about swapping them , it was at this point that the reason for the leak was one or more of the beads getting stuck behind the valve and stopping it from closing. So... if you air your tyres down often, you may want to look at using larger ceramic BBs rather than the balancing beads D4x4 supply.

They reckon 250g on the Devon4x4-supplied brand: http://www.magnumbalance.com/The%20Magnum%20Range.htm

Yeah pretty cynical I think.... They will almost certainly have signed the change originally, not to mention the statutory signage at the start and end of the change when the change to route was proposed, but who thinks a rogue greenlaner decided he didn't want to abide by it and maybe removed it...? It only takes one

Radio waves?

Paras and 1-ton shackles normally means you have issues with the front prop and crossmember meeting, the fix is to notch it, but you may want to avoid this and just use Paras on their own

Ah, when you say 2" thick, you mean 2" diameter? In which case, yes it is normal on a later axle (both RRCs I have had had them), and yes, you will need longer bolts... TBH, I would send them photos of the differences and part numbers and get them to replace with what you asked for!

You sure that reinforcement isn't an anti-roll bar mount? they are held by what looks like two ball joints joined to look like a dog bone...

If it is revving out from poor gearing then sticking a Disco transfer box on would sort it very easily....

Second hand ones are 10 a penny, don't get castor corrected ones, you will be putting your new chassis-end bushes under strain the whole time without a lift. They will also make the steering heavier.

Just a note, OS maps aren't the law, the 'Definitive map' is, along with any TROs. Did you check the Definitive Map before setting off? If not, then you wouldn't have a leg to stand on. Name of road/location/OS ref would possibly, in this case, be justified. From Wilts site: The police fines have worked though, the whole forum knows about it now *edit* This made me giggle.... need thos special tracks to go greenlaning? I don't think so! http://www.wiltshire...bury-plain.pdf Great advert for the plain IMHO.

It won't really affect anything TBH, mainly cosmetics, I'm struggling to think of any geometry changes you would get.... but can't The ideal is to either drop the panhard rod mount on the chassis or raise the mount on the axle so that the panhard rod is parallel to the drag link, as it should be, but I'd be very nervous about doing that, LR made it very strong in that area for a reason

That'll be the bush then........ Cheers Ross!

Current Britpart swivel kits (inc balls) include the bush at the top which takes a HUGE amount of effort to fit in (big press or lump hammer). Having done them before with their kits I know it's not supposed to be so tight you lose a little curl of metal off the bush. Unsure if it was swivel or bush at fault, really didn't have time to investigate, only had 7 hours to rebuild the whole axle(!)

Have you lifted it? If so the Panhard rod will pull the axle over a little compared to chassis, mine is this way, and hence why some people fit adjustable panhards, but 99.9% of the time they are unnecessary.

'Driving along normally'.... AKA smashing the clutch

Ah, bit different, that's for restricting silly-silly suspension systems and keeping the competition close

Slop anywhere in the drivetrain TBH, but I would start with A-frame ball joint, prop UJs, drive flanges and half shafts, axle mounting bushes. Then more expensive/complicated stuff is CVs, diff wear, transfer box wear (in that order). If it's only a little bang, it's probably normal, and you are looking for something that isn't there But worth checking the first list anyways.

Yes. You could go +5.5" shocks (from Gwyn) and raised shock mounts (from Gwyn) and then the relocations would have more of a job to do No loss of up travel either. Surprisingly cheap TBH, though it may not be in your budget, and only requires a couple of spanners and I think it totals 9 bolts you need to undo/redo

This has me confused too, any explanation? As far as the options, I would go with Gwyn's option, they are fine on road and aren't going to affect things or make noise as long as the spring doesn't actually dislocate.

Was going to compose a reasonable reply, but instead I am going to redirect you, and ask a question.... how much cash have you got? Mediocre rebuild - £1500 5.0l stroker kit, Merlin heads etc : £7K+ http://www.realsteel.co.uk/section1.pdf