Bowie69

Hmmmmm, tried running mine like that once, feck me did it smoke a lot! Clouds and clouds, black, white, blue.... wow.... Definitely did my bit for global warming that day

Don't forget the blummin video camera! Should be fun, at least to watch *you* go through it

52mph is when it is supposed to lock up the torque converter, almost definitely this is what you are feeling, pretty sure without a box dismantle there'll be no way to change this.

Your idle is probably (partly) horrible due to the very large differences between the 4 or so idle figures around 40-50 kPa and 600-1000 rpm, smooth these out to something like: 38 40 35 38 instead of: 30 52 24 30 Play with the figures until you get is smooth, but as Nige says, need a bit more info/check some settings to be specific.

You forgot to mention the integral map lights

Ditto, only way I have found to truly seal them properly long term.

Does this mean the 90 is delayed again You could always teach yourself CAD -no not the shreddies variety! If you want a 'trial' version of something drop me a PM

Steel vs Aluminium Alloy for wheels.... It is reported that in the film 'The Italian Job' (the first, good one with good actors, not the one set in LA) that the Minis had to swap over to the minilite (alloy) wheels because the jumps were collapsing the standard cooper rims.... Might be hearsay, but I am sure I read about something similar outside of the film commentry. Of course there are pros and cons with both, not saying alloys are better for hardcore off-road action

Yep, with a large 4 pin plug on the left hand side of it, as you look at the engine.

Doh.... saw it, just didn't read the last bit.... So, again, nice work

Now that looks very very nice. Is the centre seat a 3-point belt or a lap? If 3-point how did it fit? Thanks

No, they are different axles -you could swap axles but it is a quite serious amount of work, including fabrication work.

Ahem.... *CLICKY* 4 days ago, Search function is your friend.

*THIS* stuff is a pretty good match, I know of at least one other forumer to have used it. For an adhesive *THIS* is apparently what you want.

Definitely from the alternator then, coil/amp etc shouldn't make any difference.

Good price, pending an MOT test

What age RR is it? This would help a lot....

Like *THIS* *THIS* is handy too

Any scrap disco should have one

Ah, that's a job for today when I have a few minutes where my computer stops receiving new emails -off to soak it all with penetrating oil Chassis cross member is pretty rot free, surprisingly

The rails look pretty good TBH, from what I can see.... but I hate to think what the tank is hiding... will drop it out and take a look, thanks As far as a rear winch mount, that's another project for another month, got enough on my plate as it is Will stick a new pump in it as well, just to make sure...

Just un-tick 'Enable Emoticons' at the bottom when posting/replying, B) is a pretty common shorthand for 'cool'...

On the SWB series, you can un-rivit/spot weld the floor, and lift it out in one piece, which gives pretty good access to everything you should need -I would think it is the same on a 109, but someone will be along to confirm in a moment I did this to our lightweight, and it took about an hour to an hour and a half to get it all out -some rivits will need the end grinding off them unfortunately. Refitting was just pop riviting it back in place. Looks like this with the floor out: *CLICKY* And yes, a quarter chassis is probably the best way to go about it, assuming you can fine something to weld it to!

Thanks guys! Thanks Mark, forgot to mention, already got that sorted, new one went in about a week ago, not sure I would have got it in without taking the floor out TBH Any thoughts on the fuel pump, is it worth switching for a new one at this mileage? Thanks again

I've got the rear floor out the Rangie at the moment, and a nice shiny Ali one from QTDarren ready to go in, and was wondering if there was anything else I should tackle whilst I have moderately better access to the fuel tank/chassis etc before I pop rivet the whole thing down? Top of the fuel pump and the steel fuel lines look a bit crusty, so will probably replace the lines, is it worth chucking a new fuel pump in it now? It's done 110K miles ish, so done a fair old distance... Any brake lines will get inspected and changed if necessary, chassis scrubbed, painted and waxoyled. Anything else? Many thanks