Bowie69

You might find new standard shocks and springs make it so much more comfy..... I mean how old are the ones on there now?

No reason why a coke bottle with two tubes in it, one to connect to your tyre valve, the other to poke into your axle/t-box/gearbox/we wouldn't work OK...

Had this before, turned out I put the return springs on the rear shoes the wrong way -easily done as it's not obvious how they *should* go...

There's a roll pin at the bototm of the shaft IIRC

Brake master cylinder for Series III - whilst bleeding the seals folded inside out and the pedal went to the floor -replaced with genuine. Oil pump for Series III 2.25 - Made so much noise (grinding, clattering through the base of the dizzy) that I thought the main bearings had lunched themselves, or I had done something wrong when reassembling the engine. Strippped everything out, camshaft, dizzy, head off, pistons out (I'd already done this once!). Put it back together only for the noise to still be there. Swapped oil pump out for the original one which was worn and then it was as smooth as a wet baby pig. Turning the 'new' oil pump by hand it grated and graunched no wonder it was noisy wwhen fitted. Replacement pump sent by Paddocks, fitted it, same noise Wheel cylinders -leaked on fitting. All in all cost me about 4 days work, plus gasket and postage costs of course. Paddocks were good about it, but I won't touch anything safety or bearing/engine wise from Britpart again. *some* thinsg have been OK, I just don't remember them as you only seem to remember bad stuff, don't you :s

Stripping it isn't hard, I'd do the job thoroughly and then you know it is all A1.

Understood! It still makes sense to me

Oh, they don't, but here goes again Take a 12V feed to the switch and connect the switch outputs to the outer terminals of the bank of 3 on the solenoid. So to answer original Q, yes, you need in, out, +ve. +ve to input to switch 'in' to output pin of switch one way 'out' to output pin of switch the other way. Centre pin of Albright is grounded. *cough* If you have difficulty now, then I'd be worried!

Charles, you have earth to middle pin, and two switched lives to the other two terminals, 99.9% this is how I wired it up Connect the switch to feed 12V to one or the other outside terminals for in/out depending on position, and as the centre terminal is earthed already there is nothing else to connect So take a 12V fom the solenoid to the switch, and the switched outputs to the outside terminals, job done. Hope that makes sense

Chris, According to *THIS* VOSA document the chassis mounting points are tested regardless of whether the vehicle is presented for inspection with the towbar fitted or not. A good move IMHO, nothing like having 3.5 tons of boat, car+trailer or plant machinery becoming detached on the motorway at 60mph...

And are you sure it's fuel and not water

Worst one of these I saw was a St John Amblulance vehicle (Nissan Patrol IIRC) practicing J-turns on the beach -I was waiting for something to happen, eventually it did and flipped it right over onto it's roof as the rear tyre dug in hard -this, all with 3 kids and a mother on board -and a borrowed vehicle! Leaking fuel, smashed windows, and a few minor injuries including glass in the mother's head.... All of them are muppets

If you put it on top of a bonfire, that's pretty normal, yes.

My thoughts would be sabotage as well Glad you're OK though

Was about to say, I think they are the same as choke cable clamps, in which case the fastest way would be to go nick one off a scrapper

Probably just air in the system, top up the reservoir, jack up front axle and turn lock to lock a few times -normally fixes it. Frothy fluid is pretty normal BTW, especially if air in in the system.

Good result, glad to help

Having just about finished doing mine, I'd say replace, definitely, really not worth even trying to repair that -the crossmember isn't expensive, and a replacement Ali floor from an earlier Range is cheap, I picked mine up through this forum for just £15. I actually bought, via Eay, two pieces of folded steel (into a Z,) to remake the boot floor lip, it was relatively expensive £15 each + P&P) but has make a good job of it and definitely much easier than trying to repair. Whilst in there you'll probably need to visit the seat belt mounts on the wheel arches, the arches, rear footwells, c-pillar etc, do it right, do it once. HTH, Along with Orange's write up I have a load of pics if it will help....

Just open up the back of the plug, from memory there's a couple of screws inside the connector face and the cover falls away, you can then slide it up the loom to allow better access to the back end of the plug Much easier to do all this with the ECU out of course, didn't read whether it was out of it's home or not...

Could also be rust-spotted discs in my experience...

I got given a FORTIS Steel Co. vice, 6"+ jaws, quick release and very heavy duty (read: able to put Montego wheel bearings in with it, using a scaffold pole on the handle). Very very pleased with it, had it 10+ years now but it must be 30 years old at a guess.

I split my vented calipers today, knowing I was going to reuse the seals, which sound the same as yours, fortunately they were in good nick, unlike the rest of the calipers! Guess it is the luck of the draw....

No, you need to undo and do up 4 bolts per flange

I have had the same injury as you a few times now Tony, not a very pleasant experience at all... I now use these goggles: *CLICKY* Excellent seal to the face, comfortable soft plastic, and very good peripheral vision, and very well ventilated, they are quite large which helps to reduce the fogging up. Since using them I haven't had a visit to A&E, well at least not for my eyes Definitely recommended I had a face shield once, found it still fogged up as you breathe into the mask, and even wearing one I managed to get a bit of rust/grinding disc in my eye, I am sure they are fine for working on a bench long term but under a vehicle when you get in strange positions there's too much chance of stuff getting past in IMHO. HTH

A g-cramp of appropriate size to squeeze the joint together normally works for me, but definitely clean the threads up on the nut and joint, will make it much easier.