Bowie69

A short video of the issue: *CLICKY FOR A GIGGLE* I've rebuilt engines before, so it holds no real fear for me, but I would be interested in anyones likely diagnoses before I start ripping it apart too much.... the timing of the smoke is interesting to me, for instance, as it takes quite a while to build up. I pulled the plugs, and they looked like this on the left bank: and this on the right: Compression test when hot showed this: 1. 168 3. 158 5. 195 7. 158 1. 175 3. 180 5. 178 7. 158 195 is the badly oiled plug, so pretty self explanatory, I think... I was going to do the cam fairly soon, just wasn't quite planning on it being now! Packet of Jaffa Cakes to the winner Thanks in advance P.s. If anyone can explain the science of a smoke ring it would be hugely appreciated P.p.s. Jaffa cakes may or may not exist, either in RL or virtual.

You sure it's not just the huge EDIS sparks breaking the plug down internally? Might be worth trying non-resistive plugs (BP6ES).... either that or a plug designed to work with EDIS-power sparks.... Poor ickle NGKs.... what have you been doing to them

Yep..... Here's one(sorry about the mud): The slit is on the underside of the piece of box, the end of which I closed off with some scrap 3mm plate, which I also slit at the same time. It's never moved and has been on there for over a year now. Only picture I could get of it, rather awkward to photograph when there so much gubbins in the way :/ HTH

Did mine recently, just extended the existing breathers... Some 6mm air line, some push fit T-pieces and straight joiners was all I needed, liberated by a mate from his work, took about 15 mins to fit it all. I ran them up the snorkel, and secured it pointing down with a rubber lined fuel pipe P-clip.

WRT the radiator/crank pulley..... I took the fan off, piece of plywood in front of the radiator, socket on, tommy bar in, bit of packing with some 6mm steel to get it to line up and flicked the starter -nut off, slipped pulley off. Job done

I made mine with a bit of box section, drilled it out witha 30mm hole cutter (I have HD ssteering bars) and sliced it with an 3.2mm grinder disc, two more holes for bolts a bit of 6mm angle on top and job done. Chassis end is easy, just weld on a flat plate with a big hole in it...

I now have them in my 33"s, happy with the balancing, very good, though as above you do get a little wobble at 45 or so, but I think that may be my front swivel pins needing adjusting again.... One major drawback I have found, is if you air your tyres down for of road, you get the beads stuck in the valves, meaning they leak. Also had this when airing back up, what a PITFA, first time it happened I went and bought 4 new valves as I thought they were part of a dodgy batch....

Download 'Virtual Clone Drive' and install, double click on the RAVE ISO and it will open up as a new virtual CD drive... job done

It is on my list of things to do, but TBH, I don't think it is wrong per se, just maybe not quite what I would prefer! It is actually slightly better since I went to 33" tyres from 31.7", as the perceived load on the box is greater meaning it will hold the gear longer, I do worry about fuel consumption going silly however.... Can't remember what it was like on the originals..... was so long ago now Hope not too OT...

Search button is your friend.... http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...amp;mode=linear http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...mp;#entry267887 http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=15226 http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=10292

TBH, that sounds like you just didn't like the auto box on that car, every one has different characteristics, and as far as kicking down too much, I find the opposite on my Rangie, sometimes I want it to kick down a bit more and it just wont. 99% of the time though it just sits in 'D' and I love it, but going down a motorway slip road and holding it in first for a bit really gets it going My Dad's Honda VTEC would kick down too much for my liking, but his 2.7 Santa Fe is very nice. It's very much a personal preference TBH.

Wow.... that's a really rusty one I'd pull the cill covers off as well, I suspect you will be looking at a full replacement given the other pictures, and that hole in the A-pillar. Also, check under the carpets in the rear passenger compartment floor, and the two front footwells, and under the drivers/passenger seat. I suspect you are in for the long haul with this one, but do a good job and it will last forever. Good luck! P.s. Seeing pictures like this make me realise that mine really actually wasn't that bad(!)

Or just use a hacksaw Front or rear? If the front you can disassemble the hacksaw and reassemble it around the spring seat, and go at it that way. If you have a sharp chisel, removing some or all of the rubber helps. It's not unccommon for them to be siezed solid TBH.

That's my understanding as well, the floor isn't structural, so unless the corrosion is within 30cm of a structural point it won't even fail with big holes in it...

Disconnect everything except the power, and then bridge rem/+12V and if the light doesn't stay on you've almost definitely got a duffer.

Protection mode will happen if there is a short in the speaker wires, the other alternative is you have a faulty amp... what make is it out of interest?

Check for loose connections on the low tension side of the coil, there should be a black/white wire fitted, if this is loose the ECU won't see a spark and cut the fuel. Also, the problem sounds like it could be the ignition amp -swap this for your old one if you can, it's the little black box on the side of the dizzy with 2/3 wires coming out of it. Power to the coil is easy, turn ignition on and measure across the low tension(small) terminals. Spark to the dizzy is also easy, pull the centre lead off the cap, hold it close to the engine block and get a helper to crank the engine, there will be 4 sparks per engine revolution, so should be easily noticeable -just hold it in something insulated! You can then do the same with one of the plug leads to check the internals of the dizzy. Another quick check is to whip the cap off and check the rotor arm is still in one piece, and the carbon brush in the top of the cap is still in place. HTH somewhat

Ah.... that's what I was remembering then...

Which one's Geoff?

Motorcraft is Ford's parts division, as I understand it, but possibly only in the UK, so yes they are Genuine.

Isn't Staffa/Tubela H3PR pretty much the same? http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...t=0&start=0 Might be wrong of course, and will depend on the model

Second-hand earlier ones are plentiful off Fiestas and the like, with plastic clips and o-rings to hold the leads together and make them water tight, much better than the generation 2 coil packs, where the lead boots are no where near as nicely made. Reports are they rarely fail, so why bother getting a new aftermarket one which may not be made to the same quality, when you can get a good second hand one for a tenner? Scrapyard visit would be my choice

Pretty sure they are M12 fine, 19mm spanner fits them and they are a fine thread.

As the above vehicle is auto, they aren't 'naturally' left in neutral, so just easier to stick the transfer box in neutral. If you are measuring the torque required to turn it, having the transfer box turning as well will of course upset the reading by a small amount.

Can't tempt you with the Britpart ones?