Bowie69

Alternator, but may depend on age.... it's the W terminal, check for broken wires... that's all it probably can be, or a duff rev counter unit of course.

Book figure will be around 6 degrees before top dead centre, the pulley (I think) is marked in both direction, one indeicated with 'BTDC', which is what you want. It goes 12 degrees either from the middle '0' or TDC mark, so half way between that and the end of the scale is probably where you want to be. Painting the 6 degree mark with tippex or similar is what is suggested above. Exactly, the mark you want should be obvious from the the above description. You'll see the base plate of the dizzy move, as it's a Disco, you should have electronic ignition which means you probably need to remove the clear (or yellowed clear) plastic cover under the rotor arm to see this. Hope that helps a bit A Haynes would help with all the above I am sure

Smaller motor maybe?

Left hand thread, and yes an adjustable spanner fits on fine. If the water pump you have from Paddocks is a Britpart item, chuck it in the bin and buy a proper one -sorry, but do you want to be doing the job twice.....?

Sorry, no experience of them except driving an airsprung softie, and actually preferring the ride on my HD 2" lifted vehicle If they are original, I'd be budgeting for some new ones in a year or so's time.

The thunder and lightning over Glastonbury atm?

Yep, most likely stepper motor, nothing to worry about with MS Yep perfectly normal, RTFM Yes they are a PITA to bleed, get a Gunsons Eezibleed and follow official procedure, and you should be OK. On mine I spent 4 hours bleeding the brakes, and could not get a pedal, no matter how much fluid I ran through the system.... I gave up, took it for a slow drive and within 1/4 of a mile I had a hard pedal -that's 3 separate occasions and 2 different vehicles, and it worked.... odd one I know, but hey-ho Not if presented for test running on LPG As it's a 93, I think you would if you presented it on petrol... so just don't Anywhere from £500 to £2000 I would say, really depends on condition.... I will warn you though, the last of the classics seem a LOT more prone to rot than the earlier ones (pre-1992) and I wouldn't just look at the shiny paintwork and lovely leather and fall in love with it, get under and give it a THOROUGH inspection, the usual spots... sills, inner rear wheel arch, C-pillar, B-pillar, seat belt points on inner rear arch, front inner wheel arches, all body mounts, rear floor (lift the carpet), rear body cross member, front footwells.... the list does go on Don't worry about the number of questions, and they aren't *THAT* much more complicated TBH

Not sure it's the same, but on a Rangie you can see the reluctor rings looking at the back of hub with the dust shield off, I seem to remember Bish saying he had a wheel bearing fail and the ring got mashed by the sensor housing causing a long running ABS fault. Might be worth whipping the dust shield off to have a look, if it is the same. HTH...

Think you'd need a sequential system on the 4.6, which run from £1200 to maybe £2500, unless you are really passionate about your car, sell yours and buy one that's already done.

Yes, you can, but as household tanks draw from the top, and autogas tanks from the bottom, you need an autogas tank installed, which means when you get your delivery the tanker driver sees the connection to the bottom of the tank they are legally obliged to charge you the extra duty. The tanks are cheap, the transfer pumps are not, I did look into this and you need to be doing 100K per year to make it justifiable. Countrywide Autogas will install a tank for you if you really want to go down this route... but I wouldn't recommend it.

Wiki knows all

Want/need a steering guard as well? I have one complete with recovery and hi-lift points.... if it's what you're after I can PM some pics.

Yep, and you'd easily make upwards of £500 breaking it....

Is it not easier to get a complete unit of the right ratio and swap it out? Save you getting the sticker for one thing

No experience as such, but a quick tip... I didn't get any choice with mine (they came fitted to the rims) but swap the tyres on the rim so the white writing is on the inside and problem solved. It's a cosmetic issue only really, and quite common to see on BFGs IMHO.

This any help? (in the CAD archive......)

Nope, not needed

THIS forum is useful for part no. requests

The EFI system is worth keeping, probably gains you 20 or so BHP, not to mention better driveability -it's not as complicated as it sounds.... And yes, do a search

Classic symptoms of a motor dying I'm afraid, but check the above first. Did the motor get very hot during the recovery?

Find a part number on it and google it?

Already considered

Thanks Bish/Jase, The 4 and 6" lengths sound like they will do the job I had considered internal tubing, bu thick(er) wall stuff seemed even rarer than external stuff.... Cheers, Pete.

Ditto, if something is already broken, the wear in the rest of the box is likely to be in a similar state, just a matter of time until something else breaks.

Either problem is a rebuild, so not really much difference which one you pick.