landrovermanuk

Could you put plastic ducting in the air box in the dash panel and fill the rest with insulation? I'm sure I read that someone had done that,may have even been earlier in this thread...

I can't remember the exact figures from a pre Christmas factor visit but it's takes something like 300 staff to make 500 Defenders and a 150 to make 1000 Range Rovers in the same period...

I was at the Ford plant at Dagenham a good few years ago. Talking to some of the staff, they said if a car came off the production line with a fault it would be crushed straight away. They didn't even take off the new wheels and tyres or remove the stereo. The guys said it would be crushed even if it was a very minor fault, it was cheaper to build a new car than fault find...

Brilliant. I shall order a new cable and get on with it. Thanks. John

There was a write up in LRO I think it was, a couple of years ago. Someone put aTDV8 into a 90. The company that did the wiring/ecu was BEL. Can't remember what the letters stand for but they still advertise in LRO. The cost was in the 5 to 6K range all in. They fitted a Disco 6 speed manual gearbox as it was so much work to try and get the auto box to work without the rest of the loom etc... That would be my first choice of motor with an auto box in my 90.... John

The problem is back.... I now know what the problem is though. The outer cable(sheath) has broken just behind the fitting that attaches to the back of the gear selector housing. Every time I move the selector the sheath moves. This means that the selector does not match the lettering on the surround and it changes position every time I move the selector. Currently reverse is where park should be and drive is where neutral is.... So now I am hoping someone can tell me where to find the instructions to replace the cable... or tell me how it connects/ disconnects from the selector/hoousing... Thanks John..

The wife asked if it had been designed by Lego....

With the money you would have saved buying on line, you could have bought a chain and padlock....

Done.... Thanks..

I'll crawl under it tomorrow and have a look.... it would save pulling out the center console... Thanks...

It's an HP22 as far as I know. If I push the lever as far forward as possible on a slope I can hear a noiseas the car moves. To me it sounds like a cog trying to engage with an other cog nut only just touching.... I'll go and see if I can see how it adjusts. It's got a 50th Ann center console, which I think I am going to have to remove before I can do/see anything... Thanks, at least I know where to start looking....

Sorry if this has been done before but i couldn't find anything.... I've got a 3.9efi and auto box from a 94 disco in my 90. The gear lever doesn't line up with the markings on the surround. If the box is in Drive the selector says Neutral...etc It will not go into Park far enough to engage park in the gearbox and will not allow the 90 to start... I am thinking that the cable from the selector to the gearbox has stretched but can't find anything changing/adjusting this cable... This problem occurred over a short time... Any ideas??? Thanks John

I think it was Australia.... Our rules on explosives are a little bit of a spoiler for home experiments...lol

Somebody used to make boat hulls by digging a hull shaped hole in the ground. Weld some ally plates together in a rough hull shape. Drop it in the hole fill it with water then dropped a stick of dynamite in it. The resulting explosion finished the shape....

I remember visiting Frogs Island about 10 or 11 years ago and they were fitting a few for a large company...

According to this months LRO Land Rover are doing away with the low box on most of their products, just having an ultra low first gear.... Looks like the start of a slippery slope. It looks like it won't be long before the only off roaders Land Rover make will be made abroad... or is it that the mags are so far a head it's the April 1st joke?

There is a very good write up on building log burners on an american site OFN. It's in the general fab section on the second page..., Hope this helps...

Well 0 to 60 in under 5 seconds, over 24 inches of suspension travel,....mmmmm nice

Thanks, I like that...... Shame I'm about 60k too poor.....

I've not seen it yet, but not sure if I can be bothered to stay up...lol

Well I better get my 1976 S3 rebuilt.... I found this link on the Telegraph page whilst I was there for some interesting reading... http://howtospendit.ft.com/cars/21923-revamped-land-rover-defenders

Tonight at 11.30 UK time Land Rover are unveiling the new Range Rover Sport in the USA live on the internet.... For those interested here's a linky thing https://newrangeroversport.landrover.com/int/en#entice Hope you enjoy.... John

Thermostat is in. Now I do have an air lock...lol I've cleaned all the plugs, which were very fouled That was caused by the rough running. When I warmed it up to try and get the air lock out it ran well. So once I've got it cleared I'll try a test run...Look's like I know what I'm doing tomorrow... Thanks for the advice.... John

Thanks, I'll give the thermostat a try. As there wasn't loads of steam coming out of the exhaust I was working on the theory that the head gaskets were ok(no water in the oil or oil in the water that I could see). I think it could well be an air lock as I've looked at the inside of the metal pipe I've taken off and there is a little rust in it. Late summer last year I put a new heater in, plus a/freeze and the heater worked really well so didn't think I had an air lock but it's looking likely. So I'll be investing in some water pipe, hose clips and a thermostat in the morning... I must admit I was rather pi55ed thinking I'd cured all my problems to find it still running rough... I'll sort the water problem first then maybe just take it to my L/R man.... I'm starting to get fed up with L/Rs already this year and I've got a Series 3 that needs a ground up rebuild....lol Thanks for the help the earlier post was written in a rush so didn't know if it made sense... John

I've been having problems with the 3.9efi in my 90. For months it has been running rough, stalling, spluttering etc. I've replaced the coil, dizzy, cap and rotor arm, spent money at the local L/R garage, still no improvement. I decided to start at the beginning and change the fuel filter which isn't that old. So go to change the filter and find a big split in the fuel pipe. So replace the pipe and it starts running a lot better. I take it out for a test drive but it's running quite right. Under acceleration it's not got full power. It feels like it's running on 7 not 8. I get home pop the bonnet and notice that there doesn't feel like there's any water in the top hose. I then notice that a short hose from the inlet manifold to the metal pipe that leads to the heater has swollen in the middle and the hose clips are all cruddy. I open the expansion bottle, it's got water in, so has the rad and when I take the short hose off the engine has water in. So it looks like it's just the top hose and heater hoses has no water in... So I'm replacing any old looking hoses and clips.... But does it sound like a head gasket? Rough running and water loss or just a small leak and air lock? I think the engine has less than 80K on it... Thanks for any tips or advice.... All the best John...