landrovermanuk

I found this sump heater, I would add a second battery and split charger and could even leave it plugged into the mains overnight via an intelligent charger and just use the battery for those really cold days when it's been left overnight in the car park at work....Any input/ advice is very welcome... Or go for a water heater. I do short journeys at 4am so would like to have a hot engine and not just a hot cab. PS Any one got an idea of the price of the uprated heater fan/ matrix from the Netherland(?)about 3/4 of the way down this page Thanks John...

Thanks Western I'll take a look...cheers

Hi. The heater fan on my 94ish V8 auto 90 has just packed up. The last time it worked it took about 10 seconds to come on after I switched it on. I switched off and it has not worked since. I've checked the easy to reach connections and the fuses. The sliding speed controller is only 2 or 3 years old so hopefully that is OK. Have I missed any other fuses or relays? I'm about to get out the circuit tester and hope that my basic understanding of the dark arts will find the problem. Or can any one think of anything else? I hate working in the cold... Secondly I often leave for work at 04.30 and like the idea of getting into a warm car with a warm engine. I found this oil pan heater I would add a second battery and split charger and could even leave it plugged into the mains overnight via an intelligent charger and just use the battery for those really cold days when it's been left overnight in the car park at work....Any input/ advice is very welcome... PS Any one got an idea of the price of the uprated heater fan/ matrix from the Netherland(?)about 3/4 of the way down this page

Thanks chaps. I'll get saving for a new one with a couple of extra plates on for any heavy duty recoveries....

Sorry for hijacking this thread a little....My rear crossmember is also on it's way out. I could take it to my local L/R specialist and ask him to make a new stronger crosmember or repair the existing one....Or I could buy one/ make one myself but my mig welder is only a hobby/pro leval one so only welds up to 4mm. This would mean welding double layers together to make a stronger crossmember. What do you think? It's a bit to far to Devon 4x4....Thanks

Mine is now about 5 years old. it has suffered a samll amount of shrinkage. However the biggest problem I have with it is the stiching is now falling apart. Every so often either a fitting strap pulls off or I get hit by a really big gust of wind the stiching gives up...I've had it repaired once and it is now due a major restich. The problem is I either use cotton as recomended or go for something stronger....Plus point of cotton is the stiching should let go before the mohair rips, down side is it will need repairing every few years. Or go for something stronger and hope that the material doesn't rip. Mine was supplied by Fr*gs Island who got it from a company in Oxfordshire, but I can't remember the company name. PS I now know about Fr*gs Island so lesson learned....

Reading one of the papers last night it said the new vehicle was going to be an entry leval Range Rover with a 4.5L engined hybride that did 60mpg. It would be the smallest, lightest, greenest Range Rover ever produced. I don't know where they got their info from....

I know many of you don't read LRO any more, but a report in this months states that recently some of the early D3s have sold for less than £4k at Brightwell auction house......I think at that price I'd take the risk of running one. I was also told that on a radio program recently someone told them that he had bought a 4x4 less than 3 years old for less than £3k at auction, but the person that told me couldn't remember the make.

Si in that case could you translate Tweaky from Buck Rogers in the 25th centry I could never work out what he was saying....

Saw these and thought might be of interest to someone... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Land-Rover-...sQ5fAccessories

The fire brigade always open the bonnet to disconect the remains of the battery and make sure the fire is out. After chasing round like a mad man I got the 90 mot'd and taxed on Monday for the snow....The weather can't make up it's mind...One minute we are going to have blizzards then it's going to be a bit or rain......Fingers crossed for the blizzards.....

We've gota couple of inches of snow here in south east Essex and it's snowing heavily .......BUT the 90 went for an MOT and have a rear pipe fitted on friday, the pipe was the wrong one and the silencer had a hole in it....Could I get the parts? No. So it's sitting on the drive with a SORN on it, I'm waiting for the parts to be delivered this afternoon ....IF the driver doesn't get stuck in the snow I've found someone who can fit the bits and MOT later today......I work in London and there are no trains, the tube is down and so are the buses....But I've got to get in to work tonight, so may end up borrowing a car as the wife won't let me take hers out in the snow....You do realise that if the 90 was on the road there would be no snow in Essex.......

This is the problem I've got with my 90. It's got a 3.9efi with the ecu in the seat box. The box still leaks after I've tried sealing it, so I've bought a sheet of perspex and I'm going to make a sealed box with high level breather....

I know I'm repeating everyone else but in the grand scheme off things you got off very lightly and you will all hopefuly get well soon with no long term effects. Again lets hope the bug*er in the D3 gets caught..... When finances allow I'd like a Disco or RRC as a family off roader with full cage....The 90 is great and I'll probably never sell it but now got 3 children so 5 in to a 4 seater doesn't go...Plus air con and leather wouldn't go amiss for off roading holidays. It would have to be an oil burner or lpg and I'd make the 90 abit more hard core....Best of luck with your search....

I must admit I subscribe to LROi and LRW but agree with most thing said. I just keep on hoping things will improve. I have found this forum very informative( if not a little confusing) and the members very helpful. I have also found the Australian forums to be very good. They are very good at making, mending and improving their vehicles. Again they are also very willing to give advice. The only problem with these sites for people like me is that I'm jealous that I can't seem to juggle the time, money, family, work, cars and forum time like everyone else on here....( How the hell do manage to build a top off roader, earn money, keep the wife and kids happy and do a full write up with photos and sleep?) Plus the one bolt on goodie I would love would be a mega squirt kit, as i don't seem to be able to get my head round it...lol Regarding mags like LRE, I find them to be a bit more like club mags(in a good way), they feel more personal, maybe thats because they are writen and produced by the people who ran the other mags in the days when they were small and independant... Anyway mags give us something to read when we can't get access to forums like this...Just look at them as Land Rover nicotine patches... John.

Thanks for all your replies...I think for now I'll just spray the pipe as I need to get it on for the mot. I'll then save up for a SS sports system with tubular manifolds for a bit more poke...Cheers

I didn't realise you could get stainless systems so cheap...I'll have to look in to it......The pipe is in good condition except where the weld on end piece was and the hole near the weld on flange at the other end. The rest is still a dull silver with no other scabs.....Thanks

Thanks for your input.........I had thought about painting it. I thought the zinc coating would last even longer. It's just a pipe no silencer it runs from just in front of the rear axle to the end.....The finishing tip has rusted off and there is a rust hole just by the welded on joining flange........

Like the title says...Will it work? I'm just about to replace the tail pipe on the 90. The new pipe cost £50 and the old one has lasted 5 years, so i was thinking about galvanizing it to make it last longer. I know stainless would be better but that's a bit too steep at the mo. So will it take the heat and make the pipe last longer? Thanks and Happy new year.....

If you are looking to build a trailer from scratch this is the thread to read.... http://forums.overlander.com.au/viewtopic....+trailer+builds As usual it comes from our Australian off roading friends, who have as usual taken home build projects to a new leval....HTH.....John

One write up I read on using used veg oil told you to put the oil into a container with a convex bottom with a tap fitted at the lowest point then leave the oil for 2 to 4 weeks. The idea being any lumps sink to the bottom and any condensation that had been absorbed buy the oil would also end up at the bottom with the oil floating on top. Then drain off the rubbish until clean oil starts to run out. I know this is not ideal but may be a start in the right direction until you have your filtrs sorted out. Also if you heat the oil it will run through the filters quicker....hth...

I used to be a boat builder and can confirm mpb is right. The stuff acts like a sponge and will stay wet for a very long time. You would need closed cell foam and I don't think you can buy it in liquid form so unless you fancy mixing a few hundred thousand polystyrene beads with glue and pouring it into your chassis I'd forget this idea.

www.firstfour.co.uk 01404 891121 sell them at £29.95... John

If you have anymore problems I'll go out and take some photos of mine.... John

I saw one simular to the hardingsteel type. This one sunk in to the ground and you put grass or paving to match your drive. Good way to hide your car...