landrovermanuk

Ok. So it appears to a case of personal choice... Thanks

I love this idea. I've got S3 88" in bits and am planning to start rebuilding it later this year. I was thinking of going for a 200tdi for a little more power and a lot more mpg. The only problem is I need to drive it into London once in a while and the LEZ was going to be a problem, unless I could get it changed to a station wagon on the V5. This appears to solve that problem... Power and economy.... What's not to love... So now to start looking for t16 or mpi engine.... Cheers John

Hi, nice work.... Just going back to the axles. I want to up grade to D2 axles on my 90. Most people appear to change the mounts on the chassis and keep the D2 arms. Did you consider that and dismiss it, or just find it easier to change the axle fittings? Thanks and good luck with the rest of the build... John

Anodize it....

I'm sure they can come up with a replacement that comes in body sections I.E. front panel through to B pillar then add a back bulk head and pick up body, or add a station wagon body with rear doors...You would tick the box and a corresponding section would be picked and put on to the production line. So it would have the versatility of the currant defender but with lower build costs. It would then still appeal to military and governments as well as individuals... For £50, a night in a premier inn and a bacon sarnie with unlimited coffee I'd go up and show LR my napkin drawings....

I know that this is a bit of an old post but here goes. I use Ray Harvey in Rayleigh. He knows his stuff and is a fair and honest man. I was told I needed a new steering box, so went and got a second hand unit, took it back to the garage to find it had shut down. I went to Ray and asked him to fit the box. He came out looked at the steering and said see that nut tighten it up and you be fixed. I did as he said and it was fixed. Now I'm sure some garages would have taken the money and changed the box. Ray has saved my arse a few times since then. I have nothing to do with Ray other than as a satisfied customer who is happy to recomend him and his staff... Hope this helps... John

Ok, got a timing lamp. Connected to battery and no1 ht lead. It only flashes once in a while, not constantly. What do you think. Dodgy lamp or is no1 only firing once in a while?

I've looked at this I don't think there is enough room between the pully and the fan to get the socket on...I'm trying to get hold of a strobe gun for the morning.... I just hope it's something simple.... Thanks for the reply

I'm thinking of trying the local garages in the morning. I know the two closest only do MOTs on saturdays. So got to try further afield. I've tried adjusting the dwell angle. It either runs or it doesn't, I just can't seem to get that final bit to make it run sweetly. I've plenty of room so it's not that. I've heard that you can get a diode that you plug into the Lambda sensor wire so the ecu thinks it's working fine then you can remove the catylist. Don't know where to get one or how much though..

Right just got back. Might be running a little rich as there was a bit of a petrol smell from the exhaust, or could be petrol in the exhaust from all attempts to start her earlier. Out on the road there was a bit of a misfire under acceleration and she was hunting at the lights. Once up to 30 to 40 mph she ran fine. I only took her just over 1/2 mile to get some petrol, then half mile back. The fuel filter is a couple of years old but doubt it's that, can't think of anything else... Land Rovers you got to love them...

Sorry Andy missed your reply. I'm in Thundersley. That's a very kind offer. I'm going for a test run in a minute now the roads are a bit quieter. So fingers crossed. I really need her running smoothly by lunch tomorrow as I've got an outing planned... I've got a back up car if worse comes to worse but it's not a Land Rover so boring...lol

Thanks for your reply. I've been outside and now got her running. She's not perfect but I think it's good enough. I'm going to take her for a test run soon. I've tried advancing and retarding the timing. It either ran or didn't. She runs smoothly then has a little cough and splutter and then runs smoothly again. The whole reason for all this was that she was running fine when driving but was running a little rough and even dying when pulling up at lights etc. Sometimes she'd restart straight away other times would struggle. Last time this happened 2 or 3 years it was the coil, so that's what started all this...lol.

Ok just had an idea. What if I roughly mark the plastic cover inside the dizzy with the 8 points of the cap outlets for the ht leads and turn it over. each time I turn it over mark off the point nad then move the rotor arm round to the next point. Once it's running I can then tune it by ear until it's running smoothly? Any pointers with that??? Thanks John

I've had a quick look but haven't found an answer to my problem so apologies if it's all ready on here... Right, I've got 3.9efi Auto in my 90. It started running rough so bought a new coil, cap and rotar arm. Trying to get the arm off I pulled the inside of the distributor apart after two failed attempts at rebuilding it I bought a new one. Any way had to convert it from a 3 pin plug to 2 pin to fit. I cut the plug off and loosely connected a couple of wires to get it running. Every thing ok, engine ran fine, pulled the dizzy out to solder the wires and then realised that I hadn't marked the direction of the rotor arm. I have put the dizzy back in and pulled it out half a dozen times or more moving the arm round until it has started. It starts but runs very rough, I've tried adjusting the angle of the dizzy to adjust the timing but it's not improving it much. I've tried rotating the rotor 180 degs to see if that helps but then it won't start at all. Due to the fan and shroud I can't get to the crank to turn it to tdc without a major strip down.... Any I deas or am I just going to move the rotor arm round one tooth at a time? Sorry it's so long winded and thanks for having a look and maybe a chuckle.... I'm blaming the kids....What's that for? Why are you doing that? How does this work? Why are you swearing at the car? Oh and I need it done tonight...lol Thanks John

After my heater packed up I bought a newer one from a later model. It's only taken 2 years to fix it, but it's far better than the old heater. I also bought an auxilary petrol heater from an old vw camper. Once I've given it a referb I'll try and find a big enough place for... That's the trouble with a rag top, you can never have too much heat....

And one shot grease in the swivles...

I don't think you'll find any one who has done this... I'm not saying it can't be done but the amount of work involved would be massive. It also defeats the point of owning a Defender, also personally think it would look nasty. Being brutally honest don't think any one else will bother replying...Sorry.

The heater in my 90 packed up back in October..October 09 so thought it was time to fix it. I'm just going to buy a complete heater/blower unit from a local breaker who's got one. Once the new heater is fitted I'm going to put a new alloy matrix and improved blower motor in the old heater unit a seal it up. Then refit it with the inline blower for added puff. Reading a post the other day(can't remember where)someone used an alloy matrix and a second hand motor and fan from a disco. They said they had to cut the fan down a bit and had to make a back plate of some type. They went on to say it made a great improvment on their 90 heat out put.... Can't wait for round 2 of the snow!!!

Get my heater fixed before summer...

Usually I am preying for snow but just want it to hold off until friday when the wifes' radiotherapy has finished. With all snow on the roads 4x4s should get free road tax as we will be the ones keeping the country running.....Long live global warming...

Happy winter fest to all religions/ beliefs I hope you all get a visit from sexually non specific present giver in the early hours of 25th December.

Thanks for all the replies I'm going to go for the Eberspacher engine heater. I want something that can be used away from a power supply. John.

I knew one day that it would make sense owning a V8 90, looks like that day has come...Shame I've been paying for it for the last 5 years...lol

I think the eberspacher water heater to warm the whole engine is the way to go. But I do still need to get the fan working. I also see Bearmach do an improved heater matrix to replace the standard one...Thanks John

Thanks for your replies....First off sorry about the links...I did them in a rush before going out. I knew some one would come along and confirm my fears about the battery life...and point out how long it would take to warm the engine up.... I thought I would end up going for a water heater, was just hoping a cheaper solution might come up. Re the heater up grade I think I've seen a much improved matrix that fits the original heater box, but I can't remember where. I don't know if the one in the link could be adapted to take air from the wing intake. My 90 has the 3.9 efi lump fitted so not sure how the heating system differs from the Tdi... Cheers John.