Snagger

Well clarified - I think we were both saying the same thing. but from different perspectives. The regulations suggest that you won't be prosecuted for not having an MoT if the old one is still in date, but the vehicle still has to be safe to be driven, just as you say.

It merely states that you can take your vehicle away, ie. it is not impounded. It doesn't state that you are road legal. The point is to allow you to take the vehicle to a place of storage or repair, the latter including garages and your home, amongst other things. That is not the same as carte blanche for normal driving. I'm sure you'd be prosecuted heavily if you harmed someone with a vehicle that had failed its new test.

The re is no seal, just the plastic cone. Yours might be split or have stretched. I fit them with a bead of RTV sealant just to be sure, because I'd always remove the seals from inside the stub axles to ensure spline lubrication.

Only to a place of repair, as I understand it. An MoT fail deems the car unroadworthy, invalidating the old certificate. There is no way your insurance would be valid or that you could defend yourself in court.

You could do that and drive gently, easing up the acceleration, until you can fix the bearing. The front output flange will still be turning in that configuration, but it'll be crrying very little load, so will last much longer than if you don't.

For years I used the drained contents of a missfuel (petrol into a diesel vehicle); I had originally used it for the lawnmower, but the diesel content, though small, damaged the carb, but it didn't go to waste...

The original loom would be fine, with just a reroute and lengthening a little for the temperature sender wire. As for blanking the bulkhead holes you can't find grommets for, I'd recommend welding in some discs or ovals made from steel sheet before it gets zinc sprayed - if you stick to the old loom, which would be easiest, then you can see which holes are unused and just keep it as originally designed.

As they said, the first thing to try would be 235/85 tyres - they're better for just about everything. It should have a roughly comparable effect to the transfer box swap, just a bit less, but would be much easier and will give a more comfortable ride as well as improving ground clearance off road.

Get someone to pump the pedal hard while you look at the area of the servo around the master cylinder and look for flexing.

That's what I did, and it killed third gear after about six months.

It's an expansion bottle, nothing more, so allows the water from the rad to expand into the tank, then be syphoned back into the rad as the system cools down after use. The hose from the rad neck goes to the bottle port that extends down tot he base, the other bottle port on the flat of the bottle (nearest the cap) runs down the bracket and ends, dumping coolant that overfills the bottle overboard. I found in practice that when cool, the bottle was about half full, and would be completely full when hot (you fill the rad and engine system and the bottle to the top, and the system will self level after the first run up - you just need to keep an eye on the bottle level for the first few runs as trapped air is expelled through the bottle, syphoning water back in on cool down, self purging the system, which could cause the tank water level to drop too low when cool, needing a top up).

Ray is immensely helpful and very keen. He talked me through replacing the bearings on mine after I damaged some from an oil leak; he was surprised at the end that someone had managed to rebuild a Roamerdrive as it's much harder than the Fairey type (because of the location of a big circlip).

Rocky Mountain and Roamerdrive were once the same company but they split several years ago. Martin Hogan used used to be UK distributor for both under the name of Rocky Mountain Spares. The Roamerdrive is costly, but is much stronger than the Fairey. The Faireys are good enough, if you get one in good condition, but some parts are hard to find - I rebuilt one and have a guide on that in my blog too. The High Ratio Transfer Case is not a good idea in my opinion, and nor are 3.54 diffs - I tried the diffs and the drive was horrible except the motorway, which was a bit quieter (with OD engaged), but I don't think it was coincidence that my gear box stripped teeth off third gear after six months; 30mph becomes mid rpm third gear instead of low rpm fourth, and that takes its toll with the harshness of a Tdi and its increased torque on acceleration. As I said on the other thread, I have an overdrive, which is far better than altering the diffs or high ratio, and I also modified the transfer box with SII Suffix B low gears for a 17% reduction from the later Series transfer boxes, so have +28% and -17% final gearing over standard without using custom parts.

The registration system would not change, and the ANPR systems would still catch non-registered numbers as well as those with no MoT, so I can't see a problem.

Why not just keep the standard SIII rad and plastic side expansion tank, since the bracketry will all fit without work and the system is well proven?

I'd suggest a servo fault, so you apply a lot of pedal pressure but don't get much hydraulic pressure. If it was a fault in an individual corner, it wouldn't affect the other wheels and would produce a pull. However, just replacing the fluid is not brake maintenance. You need to inspect the discs and pads,a nd check for free movement of the calliper pistons, and at the back you have to remove the drums, clean them and the shoes, inspect everything for wear, warping and damage, then reassemble and adjust the shoes (that is the fiddly bit). A proper brake service takes folk like us several hours. At least you only have rear drums - Series LRs have drums all round...

Then you have faulty brakes. My 109 is on Discovery brakes, same as 90 brakes and smaller than 110, and it stops very smartly. It's depressing how often I read comments about how poor a LR standard system is, often steering, brakes or suspension, when it's clearly an issue with worn out components. Disc brakes don't stop you any better than drums; they just require less maintenance and cool faster.

No need - you can plumb the callipers into the T as you don't need independent braking for the ABS/ETC. I'd leave the ABS sensors in place with their leads tied up to prevent mud ingress through their mounting hole. Don't cut their leads off, as you'll be able to help someone out with a swap when theirs break, fitting their failed sensors as plugs in yours (then you can cut the leads off).

You will. Mintex pads are fine. Britpart brake parts are worse than notorious for their appalling quality. I would go so far as to call them dangerous. Porous castings, scored bores, swarf left in to destroy seals, warped discs and drums. They even send out solid hoses.

I have been saying a long time that road tax should be scrapped as it is intrinsically unfair, charging low users the same as high users, but that the fuel tax could be marginally increased to cover the lost revenue in a manner that reflects the wear and tear put on the road - heavy or sporty vehicles cause more damage, but also use more fuel, and the more miles you do, the more you contribute because of using more fuel. That could also cover third party insurance; that way every car is covered third party, at a stroke curing the uninsured driver problem, and while it doesn't account for driver experience or behaviour, it is still self regulating to a degree as aggressive drivers will use more fuel and so pay more tax and insurance. Having performance restrictions on certain experience levels and age groups could sort out the extremes of having rich kids driving excessively high performance cars (not that they're stopped at the moment). It seems a much better system, less open to abuse by drivers and insurers alike, than the current mess.

The axle will be a direct swap. My only concern would be the compatibility of the disc brakes with the old master cylinder.

To get positive pressure in the air filter fits well with a booming sound. It is combustion gas escaping either through a damaged inlet valve/valve seat or combustion gas escaping via the cyclonic breather into the intake tract having bypassed extremely worn rings or bores, through a cracked piston or through a bad exhaust valve into the rocker gallery. Either way, you must have significant internal damage.

Have it rebuilt by Turner Engineering with their modified head, and fit the VNT kit from Turbo Technics with a high flow intercooler and adjust the fuel pump to suit.

I was under the impression it had been rejected by the UK.

That does look worn, but I suspect a lot of the rattle is from the stay on the opposite bottom corner, either the clevis pin joint in the bracket or the roller in the door track. I used a shim cut from an old tupperware lid between the stay and its tub bracket to quieten it.