Ian M

finally got round to sorting my over reading td5 temp guage the other day went and got one of these from maplins http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=6499 and soldered it inline between the sender and guage, and it allowed me to fine adjust the guage to read normal! Ian

bought this last week started to strip it today to try and work out whats what. Front Half Shaft: Salisbury Unique Front CV Joint: Early 90, (23 splines on inner CV Cage) Front Disc: Same as disco 200tdi front Front Pads: Front Caliper: Swivel: Std Rover Hub: Stub Axle: Same length as a disco 200 10 spline one, but the end tapers off on the disco one sooner before the threads for wheel bearing nut starts. Panhard Rod Bushes: Havnt compared these yet, but they appear to be std size Front Arms: Early Narrow Type the pics below shows in this order, top to bottom: Disco 24 Spline Salisbury 24 Spline (obviously salisbury shaft is shorter) Early 90 CV Joint can anyone fill in the missing bits? Ian

yeah we found the mk1 x-anchor the best, still had trouble sometimes as it just wanted to pull through, seemed good behind rocks, boulders and concrete though, we did however manage to bend the tips of it though. Ian

been offered a front salisbury axle at a tempting price, but the pinion has abit of play, i know about the cursh tube etc, but has anyone ever actually changed one? done a quick search but turned nothing up Ian

the one on the right

bottom right is 24v bat

pah, treebloke will beat you all with his 110 and hay moving, im sure he'll be along soon!

got a little problem with it, its a 3.5t beavertail last year when i bought it the damper in the tow hitch was totaly shot so i replaced it and all has been fine since. recently though, when lightly braking you get the sensionation that the brakes are pulsing (ie on,off,on,off) and you can feel it through the car, also when braking with no weight on the brakes seem to lock very easily, anyone ever had anything like this? Ian

on my new truck, ive welded round bar along the axle, but left a 2mm gap between the bar and the axle casing so i can slide the cable tie down the back!

have you got a link to the trophy cevenol website?

i ended up going down there in the end to collect the bits, it was the only way i was guarented to get them, im still owed my postage back. you have a pm

it doesnt look alot different yet tho.

after doing abit of testing at treeblokes place today ive come across a problem which i thought i may encounter, im running a fuel tank mounted on top of the chassis behind the cab, now when i fitted it, i fitted the feed union as low in the bottom of the tank as i could, however running just under half a tank today on side slopes and inclines i get fuel starvation after a while. the problem is, the tank isnt as big as a std 90 tank and after a days winch challenge its going to be well down under a half a tank. the obvious answer is to fit a swirl pot inline with a low pressure pump feeding it, however i was wondering , what does a standard 90 tank have built in it to prevent this as standard?

we should be finished by the end of tomorrow for bert to collect, wing bars were painted today just got to refit them, thro cab/rear snorkel is finished (no more smashed windscreens) cambelt and tensioner and pulleys replaced, bumper modified, going to bleed the brakes tomorrow for him. then berts list is summut like this antifreeze engine oil front winch and wiring doors winch control wiring air locker pipes washer bottle etc etc only a week to go now if you are struggling this week to get the rest of it together give me a shout and il come over as we are looking abit quiet. Ian

i had that when i worked at ford, car came in pulling to one side under braking, when i had a look i found a pair of molegrips on the front brake pipe, turned out it had been to kwick fit a few days ealier for a new caliper

i used to be into all that, my best 1/4 mile was 13.2 @ 100mph, still got my 5 turbo, not used it for a few years now, my aim is to get it out of the garage this year, i polish it every so often so its still pristine after i rebuilt it from a bare shell. done just about everything to it including converting it from carb to megasquirt fuel injection, then got into off roading!

bert was askin me about this earlier, if you pull the pipe out of the servo , start the engine and put your finger over the end of the pipe it should be trying to pull a vacumn on your finger? if it is that rules out the vacumn pump.

the connector will be different, but you can just cut it out and solder the wires together. Ian

theres only 1 problem, you cant get box section the same size as land rover chassis. i had to have mine made up by 2 L-shapes and then weld them together, thats why i suggested the centre straight bit from another chassis.

was banned from the unit today, , but i still managed to slip down there for an hours or two wiring.

the centre section out of an old chassis would do the job, i think the early 130's where stretched 110 chassis' when they came out of land rover,

i think you may have the rear one piped wrong, as i think its supposed to go into the side of the valve , then out of the front end of the valve to the rear brake pipes.

anyone know what it is for as im just fitting my loom and its missing so need to order one. thanks Ian

just wondering if anyone has a contact number for rich? as im waiting for some parts and could do with speaking to him. Ian

the problem is, the 300tdi is retrofitted into an older vehicle, thus no relating vin number to a 300tdi, i bought a 300tdi bulkhead loom, so surely all the engine looms would plug in? but have extra wires for egr etc, amr4019 seems the favourite? Ian