Eightpot

...followed closely by the Lotus Europa from which angle is a Europa beautiful? Is the judge looking up from an inspection pit?

convert it to a soft top?

very late 300tdi exhausts just use a big centre silencer and no tail silencer - this is what I changed mine to when I put a tdi in. You should be able to use the tail section to complete the run.

You can fit a bonnet mount kit or it's usually easy enough to find a bonnet with the mounting already on and just change the colour. One thing to watch though is tyre width - anything much wider than a 7.50 or 205 really restricts your view forwards - I tried a 235/85 and I couldn't see over the top sufficiently, especially on a modular which seemed to sit a little higher on the mounts. Even a 7.50 on a standard 6.5" rim is right on the limit really, best thing is to throw one of your rims on the bonnet with a 10mm spacer underneath and see what you think.

if you read some of the Rover forums, the air/temp sensors seem to be the biggest culprit for rough running, also the plastic inlet manifolds can crack, though not sure if they have these on 1.4's. had a friend who had a similar problem, instead of listening to me, took it to a garage who promptly charged her £800 to change a piston funnily enough it didn't fix it.

I used to have a n/a set up and have upgraded to tdi, but still have original brass expansion tank - memory might be playing tricks on me but I thought the larger diameter hose teed into the water pump bottom hose, and the smaller diameter hose fed into the rad, top left? Anyway, that's how it's set up now.

Try bleeding the fluid, might just be air in the system.

Easiest thing is going to be to remove the offending section, centre punch and drill the welded bolts out, and use standard bolts instead. couple of hours work?

As said above, try Witham Specialist Vehicles, they have a contract to dispose of MOD vehicles direct. I think there are less and less unregistered GS 90's going these days but they might have a couple - follow the links for the tender list. Also check out the EMLRA forum, there are sometimes some ex mil 90's for sale there. The n/a isn't a bad engine, near indestructable and is surprisingly gutsy off road- not much fun on motorways though, you find yourself dropping down to fourth or even third on some long gentle inclines.

if you don't know why you need a 2" suspension lift, you prob dont need one? Adding loads of compliance for extreme off roading might make your normal driving performance too wayward, but have a think about your priorities. If your springs and shocks are tired, even standard items will give you a lift - if you get higher rated standard LR springs you will sit a bit higher still - just changed the springs and shocks on the missus' disco for britpart heavy duty standard length springs and gaz shocks, and while they wouldn't get anywhere near my 90 they have made a massive difference to the ride quality and handling and added an inch in height. I've got terrafirma shocks on the 90, and HD LR military springs rear and 110 fronts - again a big difference in handling over the old originals and less than £200 all in. Diffs are still the same height off the deck, so not bothered about raising the body any more, like to keep it nippy on the road as well but each to thier own.

I've toyed with using a 2 meter piece of roller shutter dooring type material or just ally section linked with bungee cord that would roll up to a long tube and stow on a roof rack, then rest over tailgate and bulhead to make a firm bed. It's only firm if you get the slats going in the right direction though....

If you pull the bonnet release handle, you should be able to pull all the inner wire out leaving just the outer cable sheath. If you suck really hard on the end, you should eventually make your 90 pop it's bonnet. Or just unscrew the grill and lever the bonnet catch back with a screwdriver or grab whats left of the cable with pliers and tug it across.

Don't know if there's a different process there, but my 90 was registered without an engine number, and they weren't particularly interested in taking it when I later changed the colour with DVLA and had another engine put in. Chassis/VIN number is all they were interested in. The police won't be particularly interested as there's no way to connect it to anything stolen unless you volunteer a whole load of information and force them to act on it. Depends on how keen you are to potentially lose your money and return something to someone who's probably been paid out anyway, but even then other than a missing engine number you don't actually have any information that indicates this is a stolen engine. Put your paperwork through best you can, get legal, and you have nothing to hide - it's not illegal to buy an engine without a number unless you suspect you are buying stolen goods, which presumably you didn't.

Wot Gromit said - probably just the master or slave cylinder. They're only cheap - 40 quid should see it done, replace both as one will usually follow the other. Should be able to change both in a morning. If the slave seals have gone, you may not see any evidence externally as it tends to run inside the bellhousing - you may see some fluid coming out of the drain hole instead if you have the drain plug removed.

Yep, high level lights if you're going to drive cross country at night, but not sure driving cross country at night is that wise in the first place, if we're talking about hamada and pistes here rather than roads? I don't have any underbody protection other than a front diff guard, and I don't have a roof rack, but I do have a roof tent . On my last trip I carried 120litres of diesel in the back to get me across the Ubari sand sea, just covered the load area with plywood (bolted down) leaving a void between the arches for jerrycans. I only have 120l in the back for a short time, as once the main tank is empty, I'm using the fuel, emptying the cans and getting back to standard weight without a constant penalty - centre of gravity is kept low and the cans can't move if I hit a hidden drop or dune. Aside from terra firma shocks (they were going cheap) the rest is a standard ex mod 90 soft top (ooh apart from the TDi and an ickle fridge) Keep it real - shed the steel. Nuff respec reads90 B)

The 110 in the picture would make a good expedition vehicle, but rather than add even more bits on to it, I'd remove the bullbar, spot lights, rock sliders, rear ladders, roof rack, jerry cans on the roof, chequer plate, window grills, tank guards. Just fit a good stereo with USB socket for an MP3 player, and get a fridge. An expedition vehicle is for driving a long way in safety, and none of the junk people bolt on does anything to help that. You'll find that if the extra ton of gear is stripped off, you won't need an external roll cage in the first place, you wont need the roof mounted jerry cans cos you be doing better mpg, you wont need the roof rack to put the jerrys on, and not shining out like a rich western tourist you wont need the side window grills. Being lighter and more nimble you won't need the under body protection as much either, and probably wont need to shell out £800 on an OME suspension kit. If you speak to Frogs, they'll no doubt recommend a Land cruiser, as they can sell you even more gear for one of those... Aside from spending loads of dosh, big heavy lumbering 4x4's just aren't as much fun to drive when you're on a rough piste or in the dunes.

Easiest thing for now is just to disconnect the breather pipe from the canister and secure it so it drips some anti-rust lotion on your chassis, rather than constantly clogging up your air filter. Not an engineering solution but a very common one.

Being involved in the industry it's so frustrating that all these regs were brought in with the purpose of giving freedom of choice, better pricing and service levels to consumers, but all it does is leave everyone baffled, leave businesses especially with lower levels of service and poorer installation and fix times. The connection fee actually covers the Openreach installation costs - the division of BT tasked with providing the last mile connection from house to exchange for all service providers. Your line rental is then paid to whoever you buy service from, maybe BT Retail, but could be anyone of a hundred other resellers, including Sky. On the plus side, it does mean that computers will never actually be able to take over the world and force us to submission in slave farms wearing skins and eating lice from each others hair.

An unfortunate side issue of the ofcom regulations is that the market place is now full of smoke and mirrors, and BT has been forced to divide into seperate regulated trading bodies which can often give an unfair impression of obstenance and unhelpfulness. There are very tight regulations around the provision of telephone lines, DSL tails (which come from different trading groups of BT and cannot cross-subsidise), and BT have to charge or it would be unfair to other service providers. Going back to the original point of it being expensive to install the BT line so a Sky service could be installed - why on earth should BT install a free line anyway just so you can use Sky?? Why are Sky not the con artists for not providing an access service? Whatever you may think of BT, it's important to remember that without the massive push and investment into providing a national broadband platform, we would be in a very different position today. Don't forget that none of this network is a hangover from the old national company, though BT has of course had benefit from having the exchange building stock and a duct and route network. In the early days no other company was willing to invest in providing the necessary platforms, and even now cable roll out is very slow and only in areas where they know they will turn a profit, same with LLU broadband - no other company will do this where they may not get a good take up of customers. Another side issue of the broadband scrum that happened when ofcom opened up the market to all and sundry is that the only way to gain market share was to offer broadband cheaper and cheaper, which of course means the added value services like customer service teams, tech support or free hardware is going to suffer - this is the same in any other market place - you get what you pay for. Considering what we pay for broadband nowadays and the margin service providers get from it, I think levels of service are way higher than we get from other areas - banks, gas/electricity providers, car dealers, local government etc etc....

I never had a probem with G90's in the wet, but they weren't all that hot in the mud. Surprisingly good in sand though for a skinny tyre. Mine didn't wear all that well, there isn't a great deal of rubber in contact with the road with this pattern, and they are VERY noisy on the motorway at higher speeds - 70mph plus. I've changed to cooper STT's now and am very pleased so far, still a bit noisy at high speed but it's not so much of a high frequency howl, and I'm a bit more confident with the added width and amount of rubber in contact with the road. Haven't really tried them in mud, but on rough north african pistes they were great (only one very slight cut in a thousand very harsh volcanic stone miles at high speed) and in sand they were good aired down despite a fairly stiff sidewall.

I can vouch for the Terrafirma shocks, having just hammered a set for a few thousand miles off road in a heavily laden 90 across Libya. I used standard LR springs as they're cheap and good quality, there are a few spring tables knocking about which will help you pick the length and rate you need.

yes, it should rotate freely on the pipe.

Just the thing Already I can see I've fitted the springs behind the shoes rather than in front, don't know if that makes a difference but I'll check later. Ta!

Still having problems with mine as well - think we could use a tech archive entry for this! I checked my rear drums a couple of days ago, and adjusted the shoes out as far as they'll go, but still getting a lot of travel. I also removed the drum and remotely pressed the brake peddal with a long stick so I could see what was happening - as soon as the brake peddle was moved, the shoes also moved outwards as you would expect. I did read a snippet of something somewhere that didn't go beyond saying that if the springs aren't attached properly they will pull the shoes inwards and depress the cylinders, creating exessive travel, though it didn't go as far as saying how the springs should be arranged. A picture would be good, but the latest version of the haynes manual I have doesn't show the shoe/spring layout

Thanks for the info there guys - The plugs/leads/dizzy cap are all new, which did lead me to think they'd been put on wrong, but apparantly it has run a couple of times so that dismisses that theory. I'll give it a go with another amplifier then and see what happens....