Eightpot

if you are looking at standard genuine HD springs, you wont notice a lift, it will just take a bit more weight before bouncing off the bump stops and be stiffer round corners. If your existing springs are old and tired you will prob notice half to an inch lift. Some of the aftermarket springs are heavy duty and longer - there are a couple of spring tables on here if you do a search which should help.

Good to see tax payers money being put to good use again then. Why put the bloke through it, when we all know the result will be to let him off as he's already been punished enough and it was an accident. Suppose it easier than going after real criminals though, as they all carry knives and guns these days.

Before you butcher your bonnet, have you tried the spare on the bonnet to check you can see over it ok? 5.5" rims are ok with 7.50's on but I found a wider rim with a 235 really obscured forward vision and I went for a swingaway on the back in the end. Might be different on a series with the dished bit, and on a 90 the rubber seating blocks stand an inch high, but worth bearing in mind.

I'd use single cone speakers meself rather than ones with tweeters in - 4" is too small to worry about high range. cheaper too. Little speakers like that will be tinny enough as it is without adding to it. Co axial or dual cone will add emphasis to different frequencies, but will get in the way of bass - not that you'll be getting much but on such a small cone you really dont need to emphasise the high frequencies. If you can spare the space and like music, it's easy enough to make a couple of shoe box size MDF enclosures for the back for some 7" oval cones and it makes a real big difference.

Have you tried MM4x4 at Droitwich?? They have some good value lift kits, and the service is very good in my opinion. I'm with Jim though on the spring front, genuine ones are just as cheap and are better quality - there's a spring rate table about somewhere if you do a search and you can see the different free lengths and ratings. The Britpart spring/shock sets at mm4x4 are pretty good though, fitted a set on a disco and I'm impressed for the price.

I've got one of those in at the moment - I think it may need changing again soon after 18 months use - only about 20k miles but I only use it for playing and long trips heavily laden so not 'normal' use. No complaints with it. The heavy duty clutch plates look just the same as standard but with bigger springs and more of them - I'll try one next but not sure it wont just make take up a bit more harsh than it already is - doesn't appear to be any difference in the friction material. I think I saw that Britpart are now supplying 'heavy duty' strengthened clutch forks, not seen one yet though.

it will fit.

I guess Kwik fit dont employ the cream of the motor industry, as I had exactly the same response in Kidderminster - "can't do landrovers, they're too difficult to set up, won't touch it mate." I told them I'd just fitted new TRE's and it would be a doddle but they weren't remotelyy interested so I did it myself with a stick and a marker pen in about 20 minutes. Whats difficult about loosening 2 bolts and twisting a rod????

Just buy a cheap car for commuting - I just got a skoda felicia for the gf as the disco is too much for her to run now - cost 500 quid, is absolutley mint and is returning 42mpg - we're selling the disco a I've got a 90 as well, but no way would I get rid of both otherwise whats the point of it all??

Thanks Mo, very helpfull ta. I recon the diff clears the tank with the fillet in place, didn't seem close enough to foul it when I did the trial fit - might be easier to modify the cradle but wont be able to tell till it arrives, and it stops pishing down with rain. Like the idea of the changeover valve, seems simpler and I guess its the kind of thing you get from veg oil conversion companies etc? I'd need a way to connect a fuel line though, so probably stuck with using the pump. I don't have any of the associated pipework for the pump, and the fittings look like special push fit jobs - rather than traditional threaded fittings - if anyone can help with any advice on how to offer a fuel line up to them or where I can get appropriate fittings that would be a big help.

Well I think you'll get away with just the bellhousing cover, which is wider than a LT77 one. I reckon the gearbox tunnel panel will still fit and match up to the seat box but I'm sure someone will confirm. You'll need to modify the floor panels a bit as well to match the different shape of the bellhousing cover.

Ivan - I'm making my own, plan A was to get another filler neck and splice the two together, though I've got a section of exhaust tubing in the shed which looks about the right diameter so if it measures up correctly I'll weld that onto my existing filler. I don't know of anywhere that sells them as a single item though.

OK, so I've got my TD5 tank, ordered the mounting cradle, and am about to butcher the filler neck and add a Y piece Still got a couple of questions - be grateful for a leg up before I start hacking at stuff... ref the triangular fillet section on the rear crossmember - I've seen a couple of references to removing this, just wondering why it needs to be done - haven't got my cradle yet so cant offer it up - is it to clear this or is there some other reason??? I placed the tank in position without the cradle and it seemed to fit ok, so just wondering if its absolutely essential. I want a very simple installation - I just want to pump fuel from the back to the front tank, either via a connection at the filler neck or any other easy access point. Speed isn't essential and want to keep it basic. Jimmy mentioned the TD5 in-tank pump/sender isn't a pump - will it not be suitable at all? If not can I use a range rover or disco in-tank pump? they look similar sized from memory but are they the right diameter and depth? Any useful titbits gratefully received, especially around the fuel pump stuff, I'm no pumpmeister and solenoids make my brain itch....

I've had the same problem with a disco - not a very pleasant experience when it happens, with the back end stepping out and sending you in a different direction like its on castors What I noticed was it tended to happen on roads which had rutted lightly and the wide road tyres started tracking in the ruts, finally flinging you off to one side. Hasn't happened again since I changed a worn rear wheel bearing and put new shocks and springs on (old ones were pretty worn and I suspect were affecting handling quite badly)

We used to get 27-30mpg, on our 300 auto - then I removed the side steps, roof rack, catalyst and reduced the fueling (previous owner had dialed it to max) We now get 27-30mpg.

They wouldn't have been my first choice, as Britpart gets a bad name by and large, but I put a set of britpart gaz shocks on the missus' disco along with some britpart HD springs and to be fair, the ride and handling is fantastic. I have to admit that the ride is better than genuine HD springs and Terrafirma shocks on my 90. Try MM4x4, highly recommended for service and delivery http://www.mm-4x4.com/suspension-146-c.asp

Both my batteries it in the standard batery box ok, mine are turned round 90 deg to yours, with both edges butted up against the front of the seatbox, or as close as they'd go. The lid slides on with about a cm gap underneath - from your description sounds like your battery box shouldnt eat into the space too much - have a go see if you can turn the batteries and fit them in that way, bit of a jiggle and you might need to extend the cable a bit.

I cut about 3/4" off the elbow on the turbo side and pushed the elbow on as far as it would go - just about gets it clear of the inner wing then. I'm sure it's ot perfect and I'd prefer a longer sweep coming out the turbo but it doesn't seem to have any effect on performance. I also used a 300tdi intercooler which has a different angle on the inlet and again just helps things a bit and gets the I/C pipe elevated a little more.

just a bit of related info, I've just fitted these to the rear springs on a 90 today - at the top and bottom of the springs, and it's added 16mm to the ride height. Cant tell you if theres any difference in the ride I'm afraid - I only bought two and was just going to fit them above the springs but curiosity got the better of me and I need to get some for the other side now.

Was speaking with an ex Microsoft guy who now works for HP at work the other day (fairly senior in product development etc) about AV software - he always wipes Norton off any of his PC's and installs AVG for all the reasons previously stated- Norton too big, lumbering and fairly useless.

The military hood that ws on my 90 when it was cast was superb - I've had it for five years now, not sure when the army fitted it before that - no shrinkage at all and extremely good quality. Wonder who makes them??

I'm more than willing to accept that mine may well be a freak one-off and no doubt they will have many satisfied customers - All I can do is pass on my own experience. I was particularly miffed when I called to explain that there was a half inch gap to the body all round, the front of the hood wouldn't reach the screen rail, the rear straps were a good 6" too short, and the buckles to secure the rear flap rolled up had been sewn on 12" deep on the roof so those straps didnt reach either - and wasn't believed and was accused of shrinking it, told I probably needed to buy a new, improved screen rail (off them) and to send in photos as there was no way they could possibly have produced a poor hood. To be fair, after a bit of to and fro and sending in photos they did arrange for a courier to pick the hood up so they could fit longer straps (which still wouldn't have resolved the problem of it being just too small, buckles in wrong places etc etc) but the courier came while I was out and that was that. Appologies for adding a rant to the thread, but thought it fair to qualify my earlier statement as it's a business involved, and as said, perhaps mine was a 'Friday' hood.

I got one from AWT last year and it is utter rubbish. Canvas is good quality but thats where it ends. It's too small, straps were wrong and buckles sewn in wrong places. Can't roll the rear flap up, and I nearly froze to death on a trip through France in December as the fit was so poor. Oh, and both rear rope hooks to secure the rear flap litteraly came off in my hand the first time I used them. My old ex mod soft top was far superior even in its tatty state. I'll have to get another this year and will probably try exmoor or see if I can get another genuine one.

The n/a exhaust is different - there is a sharper bend at the back and it does indeed go over the chassis between the crossmember and a bracket. The TDI exhaust wont follow this path and has to go under the chassis. No biggie though, it's still tucked out of the way enough.

The exhaust runs straight back from the downpipe, single central silencer, up and over the rear axle with an A shape for clearance , the tucks under the n/s chassis rail to exit.