disco_al

As you are all aware, the disco to defender tdi engine swap is a common thing to do (which i did last year). Now, when we fitted it last year, we used one of the excellent kits from the bay of e, which helped the situation no end, and managed to cobble together the downpipe and the rest of the n/a system. It has now become time to replace the rest of the system, what do you guys recommend? Obviously we no longer have the flange joint from the front pipe to play with, so is it going to be just a case of buy the TD system and make it fit?

doesn't sound belt related to me TBH, especially as you have already driven it. Would be very lucky for it to have gone whilst sat. Best bet is to lift the R/C and see if the pushrods are lifting when you turn it over. Sounds more like the starter is not engaging on the flywheel to me

correct, if it is over 750kg then the brakes/lights have to be linked into the towing vehicle, which then reclasses it as a large trailer IIRC, which theoretically speaking shouldn't need tax/test/insurance. there are plenty of companies out there that do this for cars towed behind motorhomes, have seen a few Yaris's being towed behind large motorhomes, with the brakes/lights etc linked into the motorhome system. as a side, in the disco manual, if it has coupled brakes then it can legally tow upto 4.5 tonnes.

That's an understatement - it's been p***ing down all night and all morning so far, quite a few local roads have a lot of surface water on them (not much for a landy to worry about) but i can imagine that the grounds will be saturated by now. If anyone is going be careful, and keep your ears peeled to the local radio stations for advice on what roads are affected, as we do get it quite bad round here after torrential rain.

nothing has been set in stone as yet for a date, but when we do, you are more than welcome to join us - don't think a Renault 4 will make it though :)

big ends would give a rumble that gets louder the longer you accelerate, rather than a single rumble/noise when you start off. c

best to check with VOSA depot i think years ago my dad tried to change the weights on an old water board dodge truck, all sorts of a minefield insued, with it having to be replated by the ministry, as well as being retested etc etc etc...in the end it was too much hassle and he put the old springs back on.

it may be worth getting a new output flange as well. they are only about £25, and as i discovered when i did mine on the v8, the flange had worn, which was why the seal had started leaking in the first place. IIRC they come with the seal as well.

they like his positive and often constructive criticism........does a better job than their QC dept anyway :)

nasty, got a face full of hot rad water a couple of years back when the bypass hose blew off a fiesta, caught me square in the face - i think that my glasses saved my sight TBH. cold water is good - frozen peas in a tea towel are better. from the look of it, best get to A & E to have it checked out though - better to be safe than sorry.

make sure you visit The Eden Project - really good day out, especially if it's wet outside other than that do Ginster's do a factory tour :)

first what grade are you using? second, odds are with being in stop start traffic, expecially in hot weather the oil will get thinner.

try a factors, or partco branch - they should have some

We are currently trying to supply a handbrake cable for a TD5 Disco. The cable that has come off has got a rubber grommet on the lever end, where it passes through the floor, the replacement has got a metal end, and as such, will not fit into the lever. (I take it the metal end is to try and cure the common earth problem they have?) Looking at the microcat, the cable and the lever have been superceded to later numbers, has anyone else had this problem with TD5 levers and cables? Do we need to replace the lever as well as the cable? Cheers all.

why would anyone need more holes on the roof anyway? they already let enough water in :) other options for antenna mounts include ones to go on the spare wheel bracket, and there is also a light bar or two with an aerial mount attatched. Failing that, get a mirror mount, and put it around a light bar, or use an old roof rack. on an astra van i had years ago, i bolted a 4mm thick steel plate across the roof bars, secured with u bolts, and drove around with a 7ft aerial on the roof, as good as drilling into the roof, but easily reomvable without leaving a nasty hole behind.

not a problem

sorted - local agents told me 3mm for the chequer plate, 2mm for the flat.

which model trailer is it?

nice work there, don't forget to rotate the wheels forward by the correct number of degrees too hat coat door.....

pas should be fairly straightforward. swap the steering box over, but make sure you have got the bracket on the 200tdi lump that holds the alt/pas pump - they are horrendous price new circa £100 mark. we re used the original defender hoses IIRC, for the most part, but i think we had to buy one new hose from the disco pump to the box.

This has in fact just been ditched by the Government. They wanted to change it to 4-2-2, ie 4 years before the first test, then every 2 years after. They eventually bowed to pressure from a huge campaign from the MOT stations and independant garages around the country, as there would have been a 40-60% drop in the number of test stations, as a lot of them rely on MOT's as there main business. Tow bars being brought in is a great idea, especially when you consider the amount of corrosion that can occur around mounting points if they haven't been treated properly. Pinched from the MOT testers forum, some examples from French test stations; still reckon 2 years is better after those???

yes there is. on the left of the picture, with two plugs going into it, one above the other

Borg & Beck are owned (in the UK) by Firstline of Bicester.

it is usually a bad joint in the window ECU. mine had the same problem, after spending 20 mins stripping the ECU out, re soldering, re fitting it - everything worked fine - for about the time it takes to fix them, next day they had stopped again - so it's going to be back out with the ecu for another soldering session

Especially the downpipe off the turbo are you using one of the disco into defender kits off ebay for the exhaust? well worth the money, as it saves having to muck about cutting and welding the exhaust, and it comes with some swanky silicone hoses too