disco_al

At the moment i have a trusty 200tdi 3dr disco, runs nicely, body a bit ropey (boot floor/rear x member need looking at) sweet gearbox and interior, i have been offered a 3.5 efi 5 door running on lpg (been properly done) that's got plenty less rust on it than mine, (x-member/boot look solid still, inner wings need a couple of plates, and the exhaust front pipe needs sorting as its blowing.) in exchange for my Sierra XR4x4 and £200 on top, it's on a H plate so it's a year older than mine. I have come to like the agricultural qualities of the 200 tdi lump, especially its low down grunt when towing, although after having a go in the v8 last night, i'm very tempted by that loverly growl that they have........ Now i know that everyone on here has their favourite engine, but can i have some constructive comments for and against going down this route, i am soooo tempted......but confused

wasn't sure where to put this one, so here goes. is it possible to get a code reader for the 300tdi's? either a plug in one that displays "flash" codes, or even one that installs on a laptop, and connects with a serial/usb lead?

try http://www.bilthamber.com/ supposed to be pretty good

i'll have a go......... diesels work on compression ignition, as opposed to a petrol that use a spark. if there is air in the fuel lines, then not enough fuel will be atomised by the injectors to allow the engine to fire, hence the need to bleed the air out of the system after working on it (ie filter change) to ensure that enough fuel goes in. most non starting problems with diesels are usually fuel related, as there is not much else to go wrong (on old diesels anyway, new ones have too many electronics) someone will correct me if i am wrong

disco's are classed as class 4, private/light goods, if they were class 7 then the road tax would be even higher than it is.

you can do this with a 'cruiser too, landy would fall apart... :) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TlOvVV4uwN0

for this kind of thing, look at Merlot telehandlers, they are 4wd hydrostatic transmission, and on the larger versions they incorperate a levelling system to allow you to transverse a slope while keeping the body level...... just my 2p worth in an unknown field....

better still, go to a bona fide auto electrician, kwak fit or halfrauds will possibly sell you the incorrect bettery, as well as tyres, shocks, brakes, wipers and exhaust......

AFAIK it is powder coat. large chunks have become damaged, and let water underneth, leading to cracking. large chunks can be peeled off and snapped to remove them.

linkages on the transfer box?

Any ideas out there for removing powder coat? i have been given a bull bar for the disco, and as usual the powder coat has been damaged in places, so i want to strip it back, add a splash of zinc primer/undercoat, and repaint it with some nice hammerite type stuff (easier to repair scrapes than powder coat) cheers

not a clue on the T/C, but isn't the whirring under the bonnet the rotor oil filter?

thanks peeps, will do some more digging with all this info.

found that last night, not much in the way of info on it though. after an address really, as the guy wants to take it back to them to see about getting it fixed, especially as he paid £850+vat for the damn thing less than 4 months ago.

Has anyone on here heard of a company call MachineSmart, not Machine Mart. They are based in North Cornwall, around the Padstow area somewhere? a friend of mine bought a welder/generator off them, and needs to contact them for warranty advice as the welder part has packed up, but they don't appear top be answering any phones....... i have a bad feeling that they have disappeared into the night somehow. just thought that someone on here from that area may have heard about them. cheers all

it's difficult to say which thread it will have, as if it has been removed before, and resintalled backwards, the LHT could be a RHT...... best way i find when being asked by customers for a T/R end is to supply both, and return the unwanted one

ball joint can be either rbg00010 or stc3295. the other option that i have seen done is to fit a drop arm off a disco, and the drag link, thus adding a track rod end style to the steering box arm, eliminating the ball joint in the drop arm altogether, the only downside is you lose your steering damper, unless you relocate to behind the axle?

defo springs and shocks, gas ones are better. did mine just after i had it and the difference is amazing

On my way home last night i followed a black range rover, old W plate (1980?) with a large roof rack on it, with two round work lights on the back end, and Beastie on the LH side of the lower tailgate, this was about 17:45-18:00 on the A438 at Stretton Sugwas. Anyone on here? if so Hi.

there should have been a shim that fits between the head and the gasket as well. it's included in all the uprated kits we sell

sounds like the best bet then, get a primer bulb (about £10 from good factors) and install it in line as a permanent fixture. poxhaull vectra's have them permanently installed, as do old 205 diesels.

right, here goes. has your new truck got an inertia fuel switch off switch? if so then the fuel filter housing has a self priming electric pump in the head, if not then invest in a universal primer bulb (vectra's have them, as do some older pug's) and put that into the supply line, problem solved.

fill the filter with fuel, then restart, surely any air would expel itself? isn't this the transit engine? i will ask someone in the know if they know the know

yep.... http://www.captaintolley.com/

have narrowed it down to the alpine lights now, so have plastered silicone type sealant (RTV) round the inside of the seals, but i still have a leak. I have now ordered some (no laughing at the back) Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure to try, it's a bit like the old Comma Seek n Seal that used to be about. It's designed for the marine industry, so disco alpine light seals should be no problem.